Any recommendations for mega pointy moderately downturned shoes?

Does anyone have any good recommendations for moderately downturned shoes with an ultra pointy and moderately narrow toe box? I'm wanting to give downturned shoes another try, but I've found it really difficult to find a shoe that doesn't murder my big toe. Currently I wear mythos and they work out relatively well, but even they aren't quite pointy enough for my foot and over the past few years have kinda bent my big toe inward a bit while somehow also still being a bit baggy in my 2nd-4th toes. I've tried muiras, takis and TC pros before and haven't had any luck (I know a lot of people who like the mythos also recommend TC pros, but its rounder footbox makes it so either it crushes my big toe or is baggy). 

So, my question essentially is, does anyone know of a shoe that has a similar fit to the mythos (ie, narrow and super pointy) or is pointy-er, but is also downturned?

I had also seen this thread before, but it didn't really answer my question: mountainproject.com/forum/t…

The tenaya maisa is gently downturn, very narrow, and rather pointy. 

If you want a radically asymmetrical shoe with slight down turn consider something like an appropriately sized solution. 

Elaine Gilstrom wrote: So, my question essentially is, does anyone know of a shoe that has a similar fit to the mythos (ie, narrow and super pointy) or is pointy-er, but is also downturned? 

LS Kataki would be your dream shoe ... you might find them on an overseas site still. Downturned but not as much as the Katana. Fits my narrow foot well. Sizes comfy relative to Katana, so downsize if you want them aggressive. I wear 43 in Katana and get similar performance in a 42 Kataki. Very jammable, my first choice for sandstone when resoled with Stealth. It even does slab, since it's softer than the Katana. And choss too.

Vapor V

La sportiva skwama

The new LV Katana. Feels like a Kataki but with an even better heel (imo) and improved sensitivity with the split sole. XS Grip rubber too if that matters to you.

Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

Does anyone have any good recommendations for moderately downturned shoes with an ultra pointy and moderately narrow toe box? I'm wanting to give downturned shoes another try, but I've found it really difficult to find a shoe that doesn't murder my big toe. 

Sounds to me you should focus on the more asymmetric shoes, perhaps not focus on downturn as much.
To illustrate - take a look of how much space there is for the big toe in Evolv/Geshido/Womens-

Are these going to fit you? - I don't know, but trying them is not going to hurt.

Side note - a lot of high performance shoes are lined, they tend not to stretch a lot. The above will do ~1/4 size.

amarius wrote:

Sounds to me you should focus on the more asymmetric shoes, perhaps not focus on downturn as much.

I agree that you should probably try to find shoes that are highly asymmetric, although the Evolv Geshido is very wide and may not be your best bet.

Some other good options:

Acopa makes the Gama and B3 which are both super asymmetric and pointy. Like the Geshido, these are made for medium to wide feet so if you are super narrow they may not be the best option, but they are some of the pointiest bouldering shoes I know.

Some of Scarpa's technical face shoes like the Boostic, Mago, and Chimera, are narrower and very asymmetric, but I do not know if these will fit your desired climbing style and they are pretty specialized.

If you are really desperate for the most pointy shoes, you need to look at EB. I do not know the best way to get them in the states, but it seems like their entire thing is making the most pointy, narrow, and asymmetric shoes out there. Shoes like the Nébula, Django, and Guardian are completely unmatched in their pointiness. They make some pretty crazy stuff.

Elijah Benson wrote:

The new LV Katana. Feels like a Kataki but with an even better heel (imo) and improved sensitivity with the split sole. XS Grip rubber too if that matters to you.

The new LV Katana still has XS Edge, it just has that softer split sole. The Otaki and the Miuras are the ones that switch from XS Edge to XS Grip 2 in the LV models.

Sam Ehmann wrote:

The new LV Katana still has XS Edge, it just has that softer split sole. The Otaki and the Miuras are the ones that switch from XS Edge to XS Grip 2 in the LV models.

Fixed! Thank you.

Thanks for the ideas everyone! I'll try all the ones I can get my hands on and let you know how they work out.

Sam, those EB shoes, and in particular the Nébula, look exactly like what I am looking for. Thank you for the fantastic lead!

if you haven't tried the Drago, I really highly recommend it. it's so soft that I find it really comfy, despite it looking like a toe crushing shoe. the sole is stiff but the upper is really soft and doesn't press on my big toe knuckle in an uncomfortable way.

+1 for the LS Kataki. I'm not sure if it checks all your boxes (there are more asymmetric shoes out there), and it's hard to try for size in US, but in my search for a shoe that fits a narrow foot well this was gold. The Kataki is the only shoe I've come across so far that has the correct length for my narrow foot, if that makes sense. With most other shoes to have enough length I run out of tightening real estate. For sizing, I also have the new Katana in a 0.5 larger size for a more all-day/small crack shoe as it lets my toes lay a bit more flat. Going 0.5 smaller in the Kataki makes it an amazing, precise edging shoe.

Elaine Gilstrom wrote:

Thanks for the ideas everyone! I'll try all the ones I can get my hands on and let you know how they work out.

Sam, those EB shoes, and in particular the Nébula, look exactly like what I am looking for. Thank you for the fantastic lead!

I am glad those EB’s look good! If you get your hands on a pair please report back with how they are, i’ve always been curious. 

One other shoe i thought of last night is the Grade from Tulson Tolf, less asymmetric but still pretty pointy and very stiff. https://www.tulsontolf.com/grade-velcro-women/

Also this thread was fun for me. As someone with the most square foot shape ever, it has made me think about all the shoes I wish I could wear but will never be able to, good luck on the search!

Scarpa Vapor Lace? Good trad shoe

Jack Bushway wrote:

Scarpa Vapor Lace? Good trad shoe

Yeah either the Vapor V or Vapor lace are the exact shoe described in OP. If either fit their foot those should work well for them I would think

I just got a chance at the newer version of the women's Muira VS. I had a pair of older ones, and as far as I can tell, these are slightly longer, and the toes is higher.  It no longer rubs the tops of my tootsies. Might be worth giving them another try.

Recommendations mean nothing.  Feet are more unique than fingerprints.  If you want more aggressive shoes and you're not used to wearing a shoe with an aggressive downturned last, you need to try on as many as possible.  There's always a clear winner and this is really the only way to find the perfect shoe for YOUR feet.

Jake Jones wrote:

Recommendations mean nothing.  Feet are more unique than fingerprints.  If you want more aggressive shoes and you're not used to wearing a shoe with an aggressive downturned last, you need to try on as many as possible.  There's always a clear winner and this is really the only way to find the perfect shoe for YOUR feet.

Golden words!
For years I was wearing "comfort" shoes because I wasn't "strong climber", and my big toes were somewhat confused, since they were feeling anything but comfortable. Then, for kicks and giggles, I decided to try "aggressive/bouldering/obviously excruciating" shoes during the gym shoe demo day. Who knew that asymmetric downturn shoes can be comfortable when the toe box matches toe and foot shape. Mind blown!