Various La Sportiva Shoes Downsizing Question(s)
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Is it insane to go down from a street size 11 vans or 12 Nike or 12 La Sportiva Bushido II (EU: 44.5; 45.5) to 41.5 skwamas, 42 TC Pro, 42.5 Mantra, 43 or 43.5 Theory, 43.5 Muiras, or 43 or 43.5 Solution Comp? xender.vip/ I've read reviews online for most of these and tried them on in the sizes listed. And for a lot of these shoes, they say to downsize 1.5-3 sizes down from your "street shoe" which could be in range for some of these but out of range for others. Which street shoe do you usually go by when downsizing (vans or Nike/LA sportiva). I know some pros go down 4 full sizes, but idk if I want to be in that range except for skwamas since I heard they stretch a lot. Please comment if you've had personal experience with downsizing any of these shoes (or related shoes). Would you prefer that you had went up or down? (I'll be slab climbing in TC pros, as opposed to multipitching) Thanks in advance. |
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It might not be insane but it's a little hard to imagine the benefits. To give you an example from your list, my LS Bushido IIs are a good close fit at EU 44; my Miuras are a little painful but a good performance fit at 43.5; my street shoes are a US 10 1/2. Something I learned selling climbing shoes is that a lot of people wear their street shoes surprisingly loose for various reasons. Another issue is that shoe makers haven't always been especially accurate or consistent in converting EU sizes to US sizes. I suspect that pro climbers have much stronger feet than most people, which would help them withstand the pressures of a very small shoe. I also have to wonder how loose their street shoes are, and how much benefit they really derive from such extreme downsizing. |
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I agree with Mark, saying to downsize from a street shoe all depends on how tight or loose fitting your street shoes are. Before climbing, I didn't realize how much extra room was in my street shoes. I wore a size 12 Merrell hiking shoe pre-climbing and just went to a size 11 and it's still pretty comfy. I'm probably 11 to 11-1/2 street shoe for most brands. For solutions (not comp) I have a size 43.5 and could probably go down another 1/2 to 1 full size. New Katana Lace is 42.5 and it's a really nice tight fit. They were painful at first but feel good now and still are great for performance. I use the Katanas for those super small edge problems and then take them off. Hope this helps. |
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I totally disagree with the above posters I have to downsize aggressively with all my lasportiva shoes, I'm a 44 approach shoe. Tight tc's-40.5 Comfy tc's-41 Solutions-39 Miura vs-38.5 Speedster 38.5 If I wore a 44 miura it would fit like my approach shoe. The difference you'll find with the aggressive sizing is most likely boiled down to people fitting their street shoes wildly different from one another. |
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Not sure you totally disagree, or that we totally disagree with you. I think Mark is saying that he probably wears his approach shoes much tighter than most so he doesn't have to downsize his climbing shoes as much. And I wear 45-46 street shoe and downsize my La Sportivas to 42.5-43.5. I think we're all saying the way to go is down in size. OP, just try a bunch on and see what feels right. |
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I would say no I wear size 40 1/2 -41 street shoe. MY climbing shoes are 38 solution comps 38.5 futuras As long as its still kinda comfy and doesn't hurt to bad then i say go for it. |
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that guy named seb wrote: Wow. I'm a 43 in La Sportiva approach shoes and the tightest solution I can get my foot in is 41. Going down five numbers seems wild to me. Maybe I just wear my approach shoes a little tighter? Another point of reference I guess. |
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Sportiva is the shoe I would have to size down most aggressively. Street shoe/approach shoe 46. TC Pro 43.5-44 performance/comfort, Skwama 42.5 performance, Muira vs 43 snug but comfy. Depends on what your goals are, grades and style of rock matter. My thought would be start 1-1.5 sizes below street shoe for a well fit snug shoe and you can keep going from there as aggressive as you want. I don't think you need to go more than 2-3 sizes down but you definitely need to go down. I definitely agree that wearing any of their shoes at or around your street shoe size is doing you a disservice and you are losing performance. Try Mountainfootwearproject.com for sizing help. Not perfect but by far the best thing I've seen for sizing. I find it to be spot on or at least within a half size generally. |