RRG Tips for climbers new to that area

Hello, 

I have a trip planned 09 Jun to 13 Jun to RRG.  Planning to spend most time at Muir Valley. I’ve watched their video, and read their online resources. I still have a few questions.

we’re a group of 5. 3 leaders (1 beginner leader, 2 intermediate leaders) and 2 climbers with some basic outdoor experience. Our objective is to climb 5.fun to 5.9. Risk tolerance is low and we are very cautious climbers.

Do the routes in Muir Valley mostly have rap rings or are there mussey hooks on any of the routes ?

I read that lowering off the rap rings there is allowed - confirm?

If mussey hooks are available, can we top rope off those or should we bring up an anchor? (For climbs with rap rings, we will be placing a pre-rigged anchor).

is there cell service in the valley? I saw where there are emergency phones. Just wondering if I should re-up my subscription to the garmin inreach so we don’t have to run to an emergency phone if there is an emergency.

Any other tips I should consider?

Many thanks, friends. 

I have yet to see a sport route at the RRG that isn't equipped for lowering off.  You should always lower off to clean if the route is equipped with Musseys or stainless rings.  Many will debate this, but lowering off properly is the only method that allows one to stay on belay from the time you leave the ground until the time you reach the ground again after cleaning the route.  You should never top rope on fixed gear- it is always 100% preferable to wear out quickdraws that can easily be replaced and only affect one person- the owner of said quickdraws, rather than needlessly deplete fixed gear- which affects everyone that will climb that route.

Other tips for that area would be to share resources.  It's first come, first served, true, but it's poor form to monopolize a route all day long.  If you have 5 people and multiple competent leaders, consider breaking up into 2 smaller groups and exploring different routes.  If you see other beginners that are mostly top-roping, be social and offer to share top ropes to get more variety in, and to allow others a chance to climb the route you're on.  It's undoubtedly going to be busy, and being friendly and sharing resources is the way to go.  I had cell service the last time I was there, but it might be spotty depending on who your carrier is.  The best way to avoid needing cell service for emergencies is to be safety-conscious- which you've already stated that you are.

Bring a stick clip.  Believe it or not, I've seen someone get their neck broken from a climber falling off a route just below the first bolt because they didn't clip the first from the ground.  It's sport climbing, sticking your way out (or in) if you need to, is part of the game.

Jake Jones wrote:

I have yet to see a sport route at the RRG that isn't equipped for lowering off.  You should always lower off to clean if the route is equipped with Musseys or stainless rings.  Many will debate this, but lowering off properly is the only method that allows one to stay on belay from the time you leave the ground until the time you reach the ground again after cleaning the route.  You should never top rope on fixed gear- it is always 100% preferable to wear out quickdraws that can easily be replaced and only affect one person- the owner of said quickdraws, rather than needlessly deplete fixed gear- which affects everyone that will climb that route.

Other tips for that area would be to share resources.  It's first come, first served, true, but it's poor form to monopolize a route all day long.  If you have 5 people and multiple competent leaders, consider breaking up into 2 smaller groups and exploring different routes.  If you see other beginners that are mostly top-roping, be social and offer to share top ropes to get more variety in, and to allow others a chance to climb the route you're on.  It's undoubtedly going to be busy, and being friendly and sharing resources is the way to go.  I had cell service the last time I was there, but it might be spotty depending on who your carrier is.  The best way to avoid needing cell service for emergencies is to be safety-conscious- which you've already stated that you are.

Bring a stick clip.  Believe it or not, I've seen someone get their neck broken from a climber falling off a route just below the first bolt because they didn't clip the first from the ground.  It's sport climbing, sticking your way out (or in) if you need to, is part of the game.

Jake, thank you so much!! Super helpful for sure. We were totally going to split up into two groups but I was thinking to do it on the same wall. Your point is well taken and I’ve experienced before in my home crag where people are hogging up a whole crag for most of the day. So we’ll look to disperse among two walls.

I also appreciate your tip on the top roping!  we almost never have the benefit of mussey hooks, so I appreciate that tip and smacking my head for not thinking that to begin with. we usually use a pre-rigged anchor with dyneema or cordelette with lockers into the rap rings and two opposing quick draws. If the rap rings already provide for an equalized situation we’d typically use two opposing QuickDraws with lockers on the rap rings.

and appreciate the reminder on the stick clip! I remembered reading that and we have one but I’ll check to see if between the 5 of us we have one more especially if we’re at different walls.

Thanks for being kind and helpful in your post.

best,

Kelly 

Red River Gorge has really good write-up

Pertinent paragraph -

Ethics and Access go hand in hand, don't screw it up for everyone.

Rappel vs. Lower

It is okay to lower off routes in Red River Gorge, most local climbers agree that is both more efficient and safer to lower on most routes, overhung routes which are common in the Red are especially difficult to clean on rappel. Anchors are generally well maintained, though sandy conditions do contribute to quicker wear as compared to other areas, so check for wear and if dangerous hardware is spotted you can report the problem to badbolts.com. Donate to The Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative so we can continue to maintain quality anchors throughout the Red. More recently, some routes are being equipped with climbing rated "Mussy Hooks" which can be easily clipped and lowered off of, however please place your own gear if you plan to top rope or have multiple goes.

Muir Valley, upped parking fee to 15USD, but I might be wrong. Also, there are loaner clip sticks available at Muir, first come first grab basis. Make sure to check if they work before leaving the pavilion.

Even though Muir is an awesome place to climb, you should definitely check out other areas as well. If vehicular access is an issue, keep in mind that PMPR may be accessed by parking at pay-lot on top of the hill and hiking into PMRP. Hazel Hollow, for example, may have good selection of grades

Here are links to Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) and Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) - same paid parking lot, some crags would result in a bit more hiking

Edit - one more online data base - http://www.redriverclimbing.com

Jake Jones wrote:

I have yet to see a sport route at the RRG that isn't equipped for lowering off.  

While this is true elsewhere at the Red, at the crags in Muir Valley that OP is likely considering, based on the grades she specified (Bruise Bros, practice wall, Great Wall, etc), the routes are NOT equipped with mussies. The intent is that people toprope on their own gear, and then lower off of the chains/stainless rings at the end.

We can debate the good/bad of it, but I believe the reason they DON’T use mussies/drop-ins at the high-traffic beginner areas in Muir Valley is to prevent people from toproping on the mussies.  

Completely agree with the rest of the things you had said. 

Lena chita wrote:

While this is true elsewhere at the Red, at the crags in Muir Valley that OP is likely considering, based on the grades she specified (Bruise Bros, practice wall, Great Wall, etc), the routes are NOT equipped with mussies. The intent is that people toprope on their own gear, and then lower off of the chains/stainless rings at the end.

We can debate the good/bad of it, but I believe the reason they DON’T use mussies/drop-ins at the high-traffic beginner areas in Muir Valley is to prevent people from toproping on the mussies.  

Completely agree with the rest of the things you had said. 

Many thanks! Makes total sense.  based on these responses we’ll definitely plan to rig an anchor. 

Muir Valley and most areas in the Southern region have enough service to make a 911 call,  even if your particular provider doesn't show service.  A sat phone/device isn't generally needed.  

Fill out waivers for each area. I don't have the links but searches should easily find them. Or maybe someone that has them all bookmarked can provide. 

Have fun. 

Alan Rader wrote:

Fill out waivers for each area. I don't have the links but searches should easily find them. Or maybe someone that has them all bookmarked can provide. 

Have fun. 

All of that type of info is easilly accessible on the Red River Gorge mountain project homepage. 

DrRockso RRG wrote:

All of that type of info is easilly accessible on the Red River Gorge mountain project homepage. 

Thanks, we’re good on waivers. Already filled out.