Are Ballnuts Legit?

What's the consensus on ball nuts? I’m considering getting the blue, red, and yellow Camp ball nuts to replace micro cams. They’re all rated to 8kn, as opposed to 5kn for most really small micros. Are they really bomber? The way they work is still kinda weird to me, but if they’re more legit protection then a tiny ass cam then I’m all for it

I have a set.  They don't go on my "standard" rack, but they do work for thin placements.  Need a really good tug to set them.  

Red is really awesome!  Blue can go in some funkey spots.  Might buy yellow at some point but it overlaps with cams I already have so probably wouldn’t buy it unless I needed for a certain objective.

Nice that they work in shallow placements.

I love ballnuts!!!

I climb mostly on columnar basalt that is very solid and has many thin parallel cracks. They work very well in that type of rock. They are not as good if the rock has a course surface or if it’s weak rock.

They are not a replacement for small cams. They are another tool to add to your quiver.

I use the smallest two mostly and I wouldn’t bother buying the larger two.

They will definitely hold a fall!

I'll carry blue, red, yellow if the rock is suitable. Have yet to fall on blue but the red/yellow have had a few hard punts on them. You want a good floppy draw or extender, a twist will unset them. Also remarkably easy to kick out in the same way. But bomber when placed well and set.

A few ball nuts on the rack can distinguish a serious climber from a mere dilettante 

Entertaining tale about ballnuts and other things.

Jack Bushway wrote:

What's the consensus on ball nuts? I’m considering getting the blue, red, and yellow Camp ball nuts to replace micro cams. They’re all rated to 8kn, as opposed to 5kn for most really small micros. Are they really bomber? The way they work is still kinda weird to me, but if they’re more legit protection then a tiny ass cam then I’m all for it

Blue is too small to be worth much, but it’s fun to place, red and yellow are nice but weld into place if fallen on, above those sizes cams do a better job.

Btw, don’t fret about the ratings, it’s all about the placement.

Thanks for the good word, y’all. I’ve been convinced. Blue, red, and yellow inbound

Jack Bushway wrote:

Thanks for the good word, y’all. I’ve been convinced. Blue, red, and yellow inbound

Whip on blue and let us know what happens, I’ve never had to test it.

Tradiban wrote:

Whip on blue and let us know what happens, I’ve never had to test it.

Blue saved my buddies ass a couple weeks ago when a purple totem ripped. I didn’t even need a nut tool to clean it. 

I fell on one and it pulled. I guess compared to a tiny stopper it’s OK? I’d trust a number three stopper more then any sliding pro 

Tradiban wrote:

Whip on blue and let us know what happens, I’ve never had to test it.

I've taken a few lead falls onto the blue one (& also red) & never had one pull. I've even taken a couple small whips on the blue in sandstone & it held. It wasn't too difficult to remove afterwards either.

Michael Abend wrote:

Blue saved my buddies ass a couple weeks ago when a purple totem ripped. I didn’t even need a nut tool to clean it. 

Right on, good to hear. I used to always carry two and nest them next to each other because it just seemed too small to hold a real fall.

Great break test video showing how bomber they can be: https://youtu.be/qkyIEv7gSaQ

Steven R wrote:

Great break test video showing how bomber they can be: https://youtu.be/qkyIEv7gSaQ

Static testing is bunk.