Rifle-climbing&camping

Hi guys, we are going for climb in rifle. Can You please recommend areas with sport routes 5.9-5.11d and free camping there? Thanks in advance!

Shelf road 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Shelf road 

Shelf road is not free camping and probably a bit toasty. 

Regarding rifle: as of last weekend, there are basically only two paid campsites in the park that are thawed out, and the road up to the free camping at the meadow is closed, so the only reliable option is rifle falls campground if you're trying to climb in the park. Most the east side of the canyon is very wet, while the west side is mostly dry except Ruckman. So unless you want to spend most your time at the Ice Cave walls, I'd suggest Main Elk Creek.

You'll have to drive a bit to find any free camping. 

Zachary Ott wrote:

Shelf road is not free camping and probably a bit toasty. 

You'll have to drive a bit to find any free camping. 

There is 100% free camping at Shelf. Additionally, some of the best routes at Shelf aren’t in season until June. I just can’t imagine someone climbing in the 5.9-5.11d range having more fun at Rifle than Shelf….but you do you I guess lol

OP is obviously traveling from Slovakia or Poland. We do not know when he’s planning on going to Rifle. There are many very good routes in Rifle at the 5.11 grade. Even though I have a fondness for Shelf, I would never travel across the pond to climb there. Rifle on the other hand, I would definitely travel for.

Frank Stein wrote:

OP is obviously traveling from Slovakia or Poland. We do not know when he’s planning on going to Rifle. There are many very good routes in rifle at the 5.11 grade. Even though I have a fondness for Shelf, I would never travel across the pond to climb there. Rifle on the other hand, I would definitely travel for.

I wouldn’t travel across the world for either, but if I were someone climbing 5.9-5.11d and traveling through Colorado then I would, personally, choose Shelf over Rifle every single day of the year.…and obviously if they are traveling outside of the warmer months Rifle isn’t even an option.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

There is 100% free camping at Shelf. Additionally, some of the best routes at Shelf aren’t in season until June. I just can’t imagine someone climbing in the 5.9-5.11d range having more fun at Rifle than Shelf….but you do you I guess lol

I mean I have way more fun climbing 5.10 and 5.11 at Rifle than most other places including Shelf.

Now if they are staying for longer than a week, or if they need a more substantial amount of 5.9  then I agree they should either go to Shelf or branch out to Main Elk. 

Is Zachary Ott trolling us? Rifle sucks absolute dog balls for 5.10.

James Brown’s Wild Ride, Rumor Has It, Rehabilitator, Fist Full of Dollars, Choss Family, the three 5.11s at the left end of AntiPhil, Feline, 80 Feet, Cold Cuts, Steroid Power, Jail Bait, Defenseless Betty…That is more than a dozen 5.11 routes that would be classics anywhere just off the top of my head. and I’m sure that I’m missing a few. These routes should keep someone like The OP busy for a bit.

As for 5.10, Malmstein and Merry Maids are good, and the 5.10s in the Wasteland/Nappy Dugout are okay, as is Pellet Gun.  But, I agree, Rifle isn’t wonderful for 5.10. 

Lol I never said the 10s are classic, or that there's enough to make Rifle a 5.10 destination, but I do find enough of them to be fun if you are in the area for a trip and planning on climbing 11s as well. I enjoyed the 10s in the nappy dugout, wasteland, and upper ice caves. Kubricks has a few good ones. The 10c on the right of ruckman is fun as well.

They're not "absolute dog balls" as far as limestone goes.

Zachary Ott wrote:

Lol I never said the 10s are classic, or that there's enough to make Rifle a 5.10 destination, but I do find enough of them to be fun if you are in the area for a trip and planning on climbing 11s as well. I enjoyed the 10s in the nappy dugout, wasteland, and upper ice caves. Kubricks has a few good ones. The 10c on the right of ruckman is fun as well.

They're not "absolute dog balls" as far as limestone goes.

Out of curiosity, what are some routes you consider classic 10’s? Not at Rifle, just anywhere. 

For what it’s worth, for my preferences and style Rifle definitely has the least desirable 5.10’s out of the limestone areas in that region of the US (Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, Rifle, Newcastle crags, American Fork, Shelf). With that said, it has some of the absolute best 5.12’s and up for my preferences and style. 

Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

For what it’s worth, for my preferences and style Rifle definitely has the least desirable 5.10’s out of the limestone areas in that region of the US (Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, Rifle, Newcastle crags, American Fork, Shelf). With that said, it has some of the absolute best 5.12’s and up for my preferences and style. 

I'd agree with this assessment. I'm pretty widely travelled for US sport climbing areas, and have spent months in Rifle, so I think I have good perspective here. Rifle is absolutely amazing for 5.12 and above, it is ok for 5.11s, and is very limited (quality and quantity) for 5.10s.  There are a handful of excellent 5.11s, but they can still be a rough experience for a 5.11 climber not used to the Rifle style. And if 5.11 is your max grade, you're going to really have to scrounge to find decent easier routes to warm up on. 

So, yes, there are some good 5.11s to be found in Rifle. There are even a couple adequate 5.10s. If a 5.10-5.11 climber finds themselves in Rifle for a few days, they will be able to find some nice routes to try. But I don't think that Rifle is a good choice of destination for a climber at that level. Sub-5.12, you don't have access to the climbing that makes it a great destination. There are lots of other destinations crags (in CO and in neighboring states) that offer more and better options at that grade range.

Within CO, I think that Devils Head deserves mention as an area with good summer conditions, nice scenery, and lots of good sport climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range.

Ahhhh ummm ehhhh it's sport climbing just go climb??? Go to Rifle find something that gets you excited. Stick clip one, maybe two, dang I've seen people stick clip them all there. See the family's partying in the groves. Laugh at all the glued on holds and goons shirtless wobbles. Admire some of the history pieces put up by people in those silly films. If a holds wet slip off you bought yourself an excuse. How'd shelf even get brought up...to answer your question the MP on Rifle is enough to get you comfortably by for a few days and someone is always there excited to spray you down. Get after it enjoy the historic canyon without expectations. Place is magic to just exist in. It's an anomaly in the states climbing in all the right and odd diesel truck type of way. 

Go Back to Super Topo wrote:

Out of curiosity, what are some routes you consider classic 10’s? Not at Rifle, just anywhere. 

For what it’s worth, for my preferences and style Rifle definitely has the least desirable 5.10’s out of the limestone areas in that region of the US (Ten Sleep, Wild Iris, Rifle, Newcastle crags, American Fork, Shelf). With that said, it has some of the absolute best 5.12’s and up for my preferences and style. 

It could just be that I really enjoy the texture (or lack thereof) of Rifle rock. The only Ten Sleep 10 I would get back on is Thor, with the caveat I haven't been on Big Bear. EDC is good too though, maybe I'd do it again. I think beer bong is overrated for the novelty, and death flake just didn't look that fun. I can't think of single 10 that I would get back on at Shelf though. Wild Iris, however, is way nicer rock and has lots of fun 10s that can be considered classic. I think Wild Iris would be the best option for OP for 5.9-5.11d if its accessible when the trip occurs. But we know nothing about the trip so who knows what suggestions are feasible.

Being based in MN means I don't get as much climbing outside as I would like. Wild Iris and the Red are the only places I've climbed with 10s that I would consider classic across the country (Devil wears spurs, boob lube, fire and brimstone, loompa, getting lucky, thats what she said - to name some that ive done). The most fun I've had on 5.10 is on RRG slab.

Zachary Ott wrote:

It could just be that I really enjoy the texture (or lack thereof) of Rifle rock. The only Ten Sleep 10 I would get back on is Thor, with the caveat I haven't been on Big Bear. EDC is good too though, maybe I'd do it again. I think beer bong is overrated for the novelty, and death flake just didn't look that fun.

Thor is the only 10 you’d get back on?   Good lord, I’m starting to think you really are trolling. Death flake (and, its neighbor, insane hound posse) are undeniably some of the best warm ups/routes at that grade in Ten Sleep. I could list list probably close to 25 routes just in the 5.10 grade that would be considered classics at nearly any crag in the US….and I’m not sure Thor would even make that list. I’m starting to think you likely haven’t spent enough time there to really even be putting forth such strong  opinion about Ten Sleep if Thor was the only 5.10 worthy of repeating. 

Wild Iris, however, is way nicer rock and has lots of fun 10s that can be considered classic. I think Wild Iris would be the best option for OP for 5.9-5.11d if its accessible when the trip occurs. But we know nothing about the trip so who knows what suggestions are feasible.

I agree, but Wild Iris has a season very similar to Rifle so it’s safe to assume that if the OP can swing a few more hours of driving to Lander then it’s a valid suggestion 

The most fun I've had on 5.10 is on RRG slab.

Yup, definitely trolling. Hard to go wrong with RRG routes and yet you somehow chose the worst genre of RRG climbing. I also can’t imagine going to the Red and wanting to only climb the 5.10 slab climbs or having the most 5.10 fun on those same slabs. Obviously our styles vastly differ, however, with that said I would take 99% of routes if any grade (even the slabs) at the Red over most areas out west. Hopefully the OP can just visit WV and KY in the fall and we can stop bickering about how you’re wrong   

Zachary Ott wrote:

 I don't get as much climbing outside as I would like. Wild Iris and the Red are the only places I've climbed with 10s that I would consider classic across the country (Devil wears spurs, boob lube, fire and brimstone, loompa, getting lucky, thats what she said - to name some that ive done). The most fun I've had on 5.10 is on RRG slab.

"The Country" 

Where's Walden wrote:

"The Country" 

Yeah I stopped using MP ticks 4 years ago or something. I also never compared anything to places I haven't climbed in my previous statements, so I'm not sure what you're trying to get at.

Zachary Ott wrote:

Yeah I stopped using MP ticks 4 years ago or something. I also never compared anything to places I haven't climbed in my previous statements, so I'm not sure what you're trying to get at.

Based on your posts I believe they are inferring that you have a limited experience of areas you’ve climbed at across the US.…but you already knew that 

Zachary Ott wrote:

It could just be that I really enjoy the texture (or lack thereof) of Rifle rock. The only Ten Sleep 10 I would get back on is Thor, with the caveat I haven't been on Big Bear. EDC is good too though, maybe I'd do it again. I think beer bong is overrated for the novelty, and death flake just didn't look that fun. I can't think of single 10 that I would get back on at Shelf though. Wild Iris, however, is way nicer rock and has lots of fun 10s that can be considered classic. I think Wild Iris would be the best option for OP for 5.9-5.11d if its accessible when the trip occurs. But we know nothing about the trip so who knows what suggestions are feasible.

Being based in MN means I don't get as much climbing outside as I would like. Wild Iris and the Red are the only places I've climbed with 10s that I would consider classic across the country (Devil wears spurs, boob lube, fire and brimstone, loompa, getting lucky, thats what she said - to name some that ive done). The most fun I've had on 5.10 is on RRG slab.

I‘m not sure that entirely answered my question, but fair enough. Hard to go wrong with any RRG route. One might even say that answering that question with any RRG route is almost cheating of sorts 

Tadek Grzegorz wrote:

Hi guys, we are going for climb in rifle. Can You please recommend areas with sport routes 5.9-5.11d and free camping there? Thanks in advance!

What are the dates of your trip and how long are you going for?

Free camping won't be accessible in the canyon for another month at least as the road to the meadow will take some time to thaw out. The corral offers free "camping" but it is a bit of an acquired taste (broken televisions and bottles, bullet casings, strong chance of being woken up by trucks and ATVs in the morning). It is a few miles before getting to the canyon if you come from the New Castle side. 

In terms of 5.9-5.11d, it's a nuanced question. How long will you be there? What is your typical onsight grade? General rule of thumb is you can expect your max onsight grade to be your max redpoint grade in Rifle until you get used to the style. Also, Rifle is graded for redpoint, not onsight as most other sport climbing areas are. That said, Rifle is well bolted and extremely safe so it's a great place to push yourself, but don't expect to be sending first go.

As others have mentioned there are quality routes at all grades in Rifle, but they are few and far between at the moderate grades. If you're taking a long weekend and happy projecting a handful of 11's, you'll find plenty of great routes that can occupy your time. I wouldn't go to Rifle for an extended trip at those grades, but for a few days, there's plenty to keep you busy. 

One thing to note about Rifle as others have mentioned, the rock and style there is unlike anything else in the world (maybe an overstatement). It's not for everyone. The climbing is physical, 3-D (even though I hate that description), extremely beta-intensive, and the polish have all deterred many aspiring climbers. Assuming this is your first trip, prepare to be humbled and put your ego aside. The grades you are used to climbing elsewhere will not come easily in Rifle. 

Lastly, it is a truly a magical canyon with a great community. Once there, lots of friendly locals can point you in the right direction. Don't let the nonsense about "super strong ego maniac locals who don't want anyone else in their canyon unless you climb 5.17" discourage you. This is patently untrue. The vast majority of climbers in Rifle are welcoming, friendly, and encouraging. As long as you're trying hard, whether it's 5.9 or 5.14, you'll be among friends. 

TheBirdman Friedman wrote:

What are the dates of your trip and how long are you going for?

Free camping won't be accessible in the canyon for another month at least as the road to the meadow will take some time to thaw out. The corral offers free "camping" but it is a bit of an acquired taste (broken televisions and bottles, bullet casings, strong chance of being woken up by trucks and ATVs in the morning). It is a few miles before getting to the canyon if you come from the New Castle side. 

In terms of 5.9-5.11d, it's a nuanced question. How long will you be there? What is your typical onsight grade? General rule of thumb is you can expect your max onsight grade to be your max redpoint grade in Rifle until you get used to the style. Also, Rifle is graded for redpoint, not onsight as most other sport climbing areas are. That said, Rifle is well bolted and extremely safe so it's a great place to push yourself, but don't expect to be sending first go.

As others have mentioned there are quality routes at all grades in Rifle, but they are few and far between at the moderate grades. If you're taking a long weekend and happy projecting a handful of 11's, you'll find plenty of great routes that can occupy your time. I wouldn't go to Rifle for an extended trip at those grades, but for a few days, there's plenty to keep you busy. 

One thing to note about Rifle as others have mentioned, the rock and style there is unlike anything else in the world (maybe an overstatement). It's not for everyone. The climbing is physical, 3-D (even though I hate that description), extremely beta-intensive, and the polish have all deterred many aspiring climbers. Assuming this is your first trip, prepare to be humbled and put your ego aside. The grades you are used to climbing elsewhere will not come easily in Rifle. 

Lastly, it is a truly a magical canyon with a great community. Once there, lots of friendly locals can point you in the right direction. Don't let the nonsense about "super strong ego maniac locals who don't want anyone else in their canyon unless you climb 5.17" discourage you. This is patently untrue. The vast majority of climbers in Rifle are welcoming, friendly, and encouraging. As long as you're trying hard, whether it's 5.9 or 5.14, you'll be among friends. 

Amen