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Would you whip?

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C Mackay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0

Newer trad climber who has just experienced some damage on his cams for the first time. Was wondering your thoughts on if this piece needs to be retired or not 
Duncan Domingue · · Nederland, CO (from Louisiana) · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

Yes, send it to me for proper disposal   

Duncan Domingue · · Nederland, CO (from Louisiana) · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

In reality, that's totally fine. Don't worry about it. I'd knock off the sharp pokey bit just so it doesn't catch on all my slings and clothes.

Edit: If you want to get a feel for what kind of abuse cams can experience and still work fine, go to a used gear store that has climbing gear (if there's one in your area) and marvel at the rigid stem Friends from the late 70s/early 80s that have all the teeth worn off of them, and realize that the climber who placed them did not die from cam failure (don't call me out on particulars, this is a very serviceable generalization). Cams can suffer a lot of abuse and still work fine; I'd say check that the action is still smooth, the stem isn't kinked, the axles are straight, and the wires aren't kinked either.

But, at the end of the day, it's your call! If you're spooked by the cam, go ahead and retire it. It's not going to be good for your mental game if you're worried about that hand sized piece you placed 10 feet ago exploding if you fall  

C Mackay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Duncan Domingue wrote:

In reality, that's totally fine. Don't worry about it. I'd knock off the sharp pokey bit just so it doesn't catch on all my slings and clothes.

Edit: If you want to get a feel for what kind of abuse cams can experience and still work fine, go to a used gear store that has climbing gear (if there's one in your area) and marvel at the rigid stem Friends from the late 70s/early 80s that have all the teeth worn off of them, and realize that the climber who placed them did not die from cam failure (don't call me out on particulars, this is a very serviceable generalization). Cams can suffer a lot of abuse and still work fine; I'd say check that the action is still smooth, the stem isn't kinked, the axles are straight, and the wires aren't kinked either.

But, at the end of the day, it's your call! If you're spooked by the cam, go ahead and retire it. It's not going to be good for your mental game if you're worried about that hand sized piece you placed 10 feet ago exploding if you fall  

I still have confidence in the piece, but never quite sure! Pretty disappointed with how little it took to cause the burr! 

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
C Mackay wrote:

I still have confidence in the piece, but never quite sure! Pretty disappointed with how little it took to cause the burr! 

It’s a feature, not a defect. Soft aluminum bites and conforms to the rock better. First and second generation Camalots were made out of hard aircraft-grade aluminum alloy. They experienced fractures and tracking out of placements. 

C Mackay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Frank Stein wrote:

It’s a feature, not a defect. Soft aluminum bites and conforms to the rock better. First and second generation Camalots were made out of hard aircraft-grade aluminum alloy. They experienced fractures and tracking out of placements. 

Would you shave the burr down? Or leave it

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
C Mackay wrote:

Would you shave the burr down? Or leave it

Just rub the burr on some rock, that will take care of it. Cam is fine.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
C Mackay wrote:

Would you shave the burr down? Or leave it

I'd file/sand the burr down.  Not because this will have any particular affect on the cam holding in rock, but because I don't want the burr to cut my finger/pluck at cloth/slings or otherwise be annoying when on my harness, in my pack, etc.

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 3,622

Would whip

Russ Walling · · Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted… · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,216

2/10

Zach Holt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 275

I’m gonna die. 

Newt Riverman · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Hit it with a file or some 90 grit and send. 10/10 would whip. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Based on your pic, it looks like you were contemplating this on the toilet.  

C Mackay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Mark Pilate wrote:

Based on your pic, it looks like you were contemplating this on the toilet.  

Utilized the white tile in the shower for best lightning 

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

Yur guna die

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Duncan Domingue wrote:


 go to a used gear store that has climbing gear (if there's one in your area) and marvel at the rigid stem Friends from the late 70s/early 80s that have all the teeth worn off of them,  

I’m gonna blow your mind here. Those cams you’re talking about NEVER had teeth on the lobes.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

I’m gonna blow your mind here. Those cams you’re talking about NEVER had teeth on the lobes.

Actually, they did. The original prototype Friends were smooth, but Jardine was convinced to add teeth basically for marketing/sales purposes, the assumption being that climbers would be squeamish with smooth lobes. The original production Friends from Ray did indeed have teeth.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Marc801 C wrote:

Actually, they did. The original prototype Friends were smooth, but Jardine was convinced to add teeth basically for marketing/sales purposes, the assumption being that climbers would be squeamish with smooth lobes. The original production Friends from Ray did indeed have teeth.

But original TCUs did not. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
C Mackay wrote:

Utilized the white tile in the shower for best lightning 

Yikes.  I try to avoid lightning in the shower!  Lol

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137
C Mackay wrote:

Utilized the white tile in the shower for best lightning 

I too was struck by your photo and I'm inspired by it to do a series of photos: cams against a background variety of hard household surfaces.  Stay tuned...

Laundry room, pergo office floor, glass kitchen table (over rug background), bath floor tile, bath countertop, kitchen countertop, cement floor, black bath floor tile, blue glass wall tile with surprise self portrait reflection.

(I try to do something creative every day.  This was fun...)

Sean Baker · · Kincardine, ON · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 5
ClimbingOn wrote:

Just rub the burr on some rock, that will take care of it. Cam is fine.

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