Where to Live as a Climber... In Mexico

My wife and I are toying with the idea of spending a year in Mexico* in the next few years before the kids get too big. I'm interested in advice about the best cities or towns to think about living in. 

Choosing to live anywhere requires tradeoffs; here are some of the factors that seem important to me:

• Sport, trad, or boulder, grades up to mid-5.12/v7 would be attractive; ideally very easy day trips. I can sit in traffic for hours on the way to climb right here in California.
• gym access would also be good, at least to a board
• We can work remotely so local jobs are not relevant
• Open to either the right neighborhood in a big city or the right small town that still gives access to good food and cultural stuff
• access to a major airport so we could get back to CA on occasion for work/family stuff
• good year-round weather
• I assume that schools and childcare will work themselves out once we pick a city, but interested in any beta for small kids (they'll be 3 ish and 5 ish maybe when we actually do this)
• I'm uninterested in generalized comments about how dangerous Mexico is. Specific, localized information on particular towns or neighborhoods will be assessed on a case-by-case basis.

I know Mexico is a vast and diverse country, so I'm interested in what people have to say!

*Other Spanish-speaking countries are also open to consideration but most feel too far way to get back easily, or have big time zone differences that make remote work difficult.

My short list of options: 

1. San Cristobal de las Casas. Super pleasant small town with A+ sport climbing within walking/biking distance of downtown. Tourist destination so plenty of foreigners and international amenities. Airport is in Tuxtla about an hour away and I think basically only connects to CDMX, but that is the case with most Mexican airports that aren't Guadalajara, Monterrey, or a beach destination. Not sure if there is a gym or board in town but there is so much climbing right in town just get a hangboard and you'll be fine.

2. Oaxaca. Charming city. Tons of expats. Lots of climbing and a decent gym. Not sure the climbing is super mind blowing from the little I've sampled but it's close and there is a good amount. Airport has a few more options I believe. 

3. Guadalajara. Would probably live in the northwest side which is closer to most of the climbing. Maybe Zapopan which is kind of new-money fancy. Definitely gyms and a better airport and modern conveniences. 

4. San Miguel de Allende. Classic gringo town, great climate, enough climbing relatively close by. Small town but not so far from several cities. 

5. San Luis Potosi. Guadalcazar is close and excellent; it is a serious contender for best crag in Mexcio. The city has a gym or 2 I believe. Also tons of new development to be done in the amazing nearby Huasteca Potosina region. Look up climbing near the small town of Xilitla and also near Ciudad Valles. This might be the sleeper pick for the most awesome area in Mexico from an outdoor perspective. Airport is limited but I think there are international flights to Houston and Dallas. My impression was that the city of SLP however was not particularly amazing, just kind of a normal city.

6. Monterrey. Big, big city. Huge limestone options of El Potrero Chico, La Huasteca, El Salto. Hot af in summer. Good gyms and airport.

7. CDMX. Probably don't need to explain this one much. It's a world class city to live in. Main downsides are traffic, pollution, and that the great climbing is not all that close, especially accounting for traffic, but there is decent climbing within the city limits.

8. Cuernavaca. Nice mid size city. Good climate. Close to El Chonta climbing which is very high quality. 

Kevin Kent wrote:

My short list of options: 

1. San Cristobal de Las Casas. Super pleasant small town with A+ sport climbing within walking/biking distance of downtown. Tourist destination so plenty of foreigners and international amenities. Airport is in Tuxtla about an hour away and I think basically only connects to CDMX, but that is the case with most Mexican airports that aren't Guadalajara, Monterrey, or a beach destination. Not sure if there is a gym or board in town but there is so much climbing right in town just get a hangboard and you'll be fine.

2. Oaxaca. Charming city. Tons of expats. Lots of climbing and a decent gym. Not sure the climbing is super mind blowing from the little I've sampled but it's close and there is a good amount. Airport has a few more options I believe. 

3. Guadalajara. Would probably live in the northwest side which is closer to most of the climbing. Maybe Zapopan which is kind of new-money fancy. Definitely gyms and a better airport and modern conveniences. 

4. San Miguel de Allende. Classic gringo town, great climate, enough climbing relatively close by. Small town but not so far from several cities. 

5. San Luis Potosi. Guadalcazar is close and excellent; it is a serious contender for best crag in Mexcio. The city has a gym or 2 I believe. Also tons of new development to be done in the amazing nearby Huasteca Potosina region. Look up climbing near the small town of Xilitla and also near Ciudad Valles. This might be the sleeper pick for the most awesome area in Mexico from an outdoor perspective. Airport is limited but I think there are international flights to Houston and Dallas. My impression was that the city of SLP however was not particularly amazing, just kind of a normal city.

6. Monterrey. Big, big city. Huge limestone options of El Potrero Chico, La Huasteca, El Salto. Hot af in summer. Good gyms and airport.

7. CDMX. Probably don't need to explain this one much. It's a world class city to live in. Main downsides are traffic, pollution, and that the great climbing is not all that close, especially accounting for traffic, but there is decent climbing within the city limits.

8. Cuernavaca. Nice mid size city. Good climate. Close to El Chonta climbing which is very high quality. 

This is super helpful. Thanks!

Nice, glad to help. I should probably clarify that while San Cristobal would probably be my #1 choice if I were in your shoes, the rest of the list was just stream of consciousness and not meant as a ranking. 

If you end up doing this we want a report back of how it goes! 

I live in the Monterrey greater area. In the city you can find places that feel like living in any US city and you'll have access to different climbing Gyms, and La Huasteca is a 25 minute drive (depending on where you live and traffic). La huastecs has all the types of routes you could ever need. From time to time we make the 45 minute drive to El Potrero Chico which has great sport climbing, including sport multi-pitch routes.

 El Potrero is located at Hidalgo Nuevo León which is a tiny town where you could live An easygoing life. Some of the camp grounds have climbing walls that I'm sure you could use for a small fee. But living in Hidalgo you would be 10 minutes away from world class climbing all the time.

NKane1 - did you make it to MX?  I've lived in San Miguel de Allende for the last 14 years and with my climbing Miguel Moore, we've put up over 100 routes in Alcocer - 10 minutes outside of town.  Along with 70 routes that were bolted by Uriol Anglada several years ago, Alcocer now has 115 sport routes and about 60 trad/mixed routes. Send me a message if you are in the area and want me to show you around (tom@renochicago.com).  Cheers!

You should consider Colombia too. There are a handful of major crags 30min to 1hr from Bogotá. Depending on where you are in the States, you might have a direct flight. Prices are very cheap and the food's great. The mountains have spring-like weather year round. And you can try out the other major crags in the country once in a while too.

Kevin Kent wrote:

My short list of options: 

2. Oaxaca. Charming city. Tons of expats. Lots of climbing and a decent gym. Not sure the climbing is super mind blowing from the little I've sampled but it's close and there is a good amount. Airport has a few more options I believe. 

When was the last time you were in Oaxaca - when you talk about the Gym you talking Sherpas Mexicanas and David?

Good morning! Send me a personal email. We can start a detailed conversation on your post. I live and work in Mexico with a rock climbing guide service and enduro touring business.
I know this country from North to South, East to West.
Simeon@SouthernXposure.com.mx 

¡Viva México!