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Hang boarding horizontally

Original Post
JackWeaver · · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 185

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Does anybody hang board horizontally? By horizontally I mean in a front lever like position, but with your feet on a support.

As I climb steeper routes, My traditional hang board routine resembles my climbing less. I'm curious if anyone takes this into account with hang boarding? Do you think it would make a difference in steep climbing?

My initial thoughts are that it would probably work different muscles in my shoulders that are more useful for steep climbing and it would engage my posterior chain similar to footwork on steep climbs. Of course this would reduce the weight on my fingers, which I could adjust for. 

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0
JackWeaver wrote:

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Does anybody hang board horizontally? By horizontally I mean in a front lever like position, but with your feet on a support.

As I climb steeper routes, My traditional hang board routine resembles my climbing less. I'm curious if anyone takes this into account with hang boarding? Do you think it would make a difference in steep climbing?

My initial thoughts are that it would probably work different muscles in my shoulders that are more useful for steep climbing and it would engage my posterior chain similar to footwork on steep climbs. Of course this would reduce the weight on my fingers, which I could adjust for. 

I started out this way, but rather than adding weight I went to regular hangs. 

WF WF51 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

Have you compared it to working on a steep board? For some specific workouts I do some hangboarding with my feet on a support, and I think it is a good tool. But for what it is worth, for me, climbing on an overhanging route or a steep board feels quite different. It may not need to be one or the other; perhaps they are both helpful but in slightly different ways.     

JackWeaver · · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 185
Jimmy Strange wrote:

Work on your actual front lever and it will help. Progress with that I found very noticeable when it comes to keeping your feet high, especially with big reaches. 

That's a good point. I've been working on my front lever. It's just that I've been climbing mostly steep routes lately so it seems a little inefficient to train my fingers hanging vertically.

I do try to boulder on steeper walls at the gym, but I like hang boarding because I feel like the forces are more controlled/predictable. 

I hello'm going to experiment with it and see if I notice any improvement.

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

I don't think there is anything wrong with hanging horizontally but it seems like a real pain to add weight that way. If you want to train for pulling on super steep climbs, you are probably better off training fingers and horizontal pulling separately.

John Badila · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 15

I think conventional hangboarding is good for targeting forearm/finger strength.  You're probably better off training shoulders/upper arms/core separately for those steep routes.  Is it possible that you have plenty of finger strength for your projects--and just need to boulder more?  

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

I recently watched a video on no hangs and one of the cited advantages was that it was not exercising the shoulders. The idea was that your shoulders are getting plenty of work from climbing and other exercises and can be overworked if your finger strength work adds to the shoulder load volume. 

JackWeaver · · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 185
John Badila wrote:

I think conventional hangboarding is good for targeting forearm/finger strength.  You're probably better off training shoulders/upper arms/core separately for those steep routes.  Is it possible that you have plenty of finger strength for your projects--and just need to boulder more?  

I think this might be the case. I think I'm a bit paranoid about bouldering because it has seemed hard on my fingers.

 Maybe it would be a good idea boulder some steep but juggy routes to work the shoulders and save my fingers. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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