Edelrid fuse for lrs/trs?

The title. Disclaimer: I’m not a trs person whatsoever just an avid reader about all things climbing. Saw some info on the edelrid fuse fall arrester  and it looks like it checks some of the boxes for a great TRS device: easy rope feeding, lockup similar to the revo (ie rope speed surpassed x amt), a one way ascent mode, and I think it had the possibility of being used in tandem with another device for easy rappel changeovers. In addition the cam mechanism isn’t spiky so less chance of rope shreddage I think. Again, I have zero experience myself TRSing but thought the device looked really promising.

Any more experienced climbers have any thoughts? Or am I an utter gumby (probably) and missed a glaringly obvious YGD feature of the fuse?

[not an edelrid operative, ai bot, or anything else for that matter. On that note, can anyone help me click the box with the crosswalks in it?]

Looks cool!  But I must dispel the zombie myth that toothed devices shred the rope (in the context of TRS).  They just don't.

Sam Skovgaard wrote:

Looks cool!  But I must dispel the zombie myth that toothed devices shred the rope (in the context of TRS).  They just don't.

Oh awesome, good to know. Thought if you fell on a microtrax (I know I know you absolutely shouldn’t ever be in a scenario where that would occur, but shit happens) it would mangle the sheath. Good to know otherwise, not that I’ll ever be doing trs.

Climbing Weasel wrote:

[not an edelrid operative, ai bot, or anything else for that matter. 

Just what a bot would say...

The fuse works the same way as a wild country revo (centrifugal break) so it will have a certain amount of travel, how much travel is unknown at this time but with revo mod and the fuse being 2-3x the price of the revo I see no reason to go for the fuse for trs. For lead rope soloing soloing the other hand I could see potential if its nice and overbuilt like industrial equipment generally is. 

Edit: just watch the edelrid video, the fuse requires 2m/s, the revo requires 4m/s. It being able to turn into basically a wild country ropeman is nice but it's 10x the price so I see no reason to go for this over a much cheaper device for trs. 

The only issue with it's use for LRS is it still needs another belay device to abseil. 

Wow how weird is that, I was just looking into this very thing this week (except, for LRS).

@seb the main advantage for the price would be the lower capture speed without having to modify the equipment. Personally, the extra money would be worth the peace of mind to me. 

For LRS, I've been toying with the idea of installing it below the Mudo for a faff-free LRS setup that eliminates the inverted fall problem without needing a cache loop. If I could track down the kN limits of the Fuse it would solidify my decision on whether to try it out.

Climbing Weasel wrote:

Oh awesome, good to know. Thought if you fell on a microtrax (I know I know you absolutely shouldn’t ever be in a scenario where that would occur, but shit happens) it would mangle the sheath. Good to know otherwise, not that I’ll ever be doing trs.

You can shred your rope with a toothed device....its just take 4+kn(usually closer to 5kn certain drop tests show), which is really hard to do if TRSing. You would likely have to be trying real hard to ruin your day to get that high of an impact force.

I have fallen hundreds, and actually probably into the thousands, on toothed devices while TRSing. Never have I caused damage to the rope.
Abrasion protection is far more important IMO.

J E wrote:

Wow how weird is that, I was just looking into this very thing this week (except, for LRS).

@seb the main advantage for the price would be the lower capture speed without having to modify the equipment. Personally, the extra money would be worth the peace of mind to me. 

For LRS, I've been toying with the idea of installing it below the Mudo for a faff-free LRS setup that eliminates the inverted fall problem without needing a cache loop. If I could track down the kN limits of the Fuse it would solidify my decision on whether to try it out.

Sorry; there’s the Gumby. Meant LRS too. 

Plenty of people use an ASAP in their setup. I can’t imagine the strength is significantly different, but I’m not being my life and limb on it either…

maybe the EN ratings could shed some light

EN 353-2:

Static Strength
Whole products are subjected to tensile tests. Textile lanyards are subject to a 15 kN tensile force and metal lanyards to 12 kN. Tensile forces are applied and held for at least 3 minutes to ensure that the products’ breaking strengths of the products exceed the force specified by the standard.

EN 12841-a:

Static strength test (A, B, C)

Type A rope adjustment devices must withstand a force of 15 kN on an anchorage line for 3 minutes.

Obviously static and dynamic strength are different, but surely if it can withstand 15kn for 3 minutes then it can withstand fall forces involved in lead (especially if being used as a backup; presumably some force would be absorbed during the failure of the primary device)

J E wrote:

Plenty of people use an ASAP in their setup. I can’t imagine the strength is significantly different, but I’m not being my life and limb on it either…

maybe the EN ratings could shed some light

EN 353-2:

EN 12841-a:

Obviously static and dynamic strength are different, but surely if it can withstand 15kn for 3 minutes then it can withstand fall forces involved in lead (especially if being used as a backup; presumably some force would be absorbed during the failure of the primary device)

DO NOT USE AN ASAP FOR SOLOING, TRS or LRS. People might ask all the time if it can be used, and every time people have to say what I started this response off with. It is not a good application for an ASAP at all.
If you want details as of why I'm happy to respond more in depth, or you can join the Top Rope Soloing facebook group for answers ad nauseam to why you should not.

If you know people who do, I can say they likely have never actually fallen on it. ASAPs under a fall load can break, not to a point of system failure (you also need the screamer to keep forces down), but to a point of not functioning after the fall.

Mr Rogers wrote:

DO NOT USE AN ASAP FOR SOLOING, TRS or LRS. People might ask all the time if it can be used, and every time people have to say what I started this response off with. It is not a good application for an ASAP at all.
If you want details as of why I'm happy to respond more in depth, or you can join the Top Rope Soloing facebook group for answers ad nauseam to why you should not.

If you know people who do, I can say they likely have never actually fallen on it. ASAPs under a fall load can break, not to a point of system failure (you also need the screamer to keep forces down), but to a point of not functioning after the fall.

LRS I understand, but aren't all fall arrest devices made for precisely the scenario you would find yourself in during a fall TRSing? Assuming you use a screamer or kisa

Breakdown by Yann Camus regarding the ASAP. Casts some question onto other fall arrest devices. It would be prudent to simulate a factor two fall with the Fuse, Monitor, Locker, etc. before incorporating them.