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Leavenworths hardest boulder problem “penrose step”

Original Post
Justin Doss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2022 · Points: 25

Is that top hold glued on? Also seems like the starting hold was chipped to make it easier. I have a photo of the starting hold too. It just wouldn’t let me upload two. 
Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,485

For years there was a ladder at the bottom of the problem. It was known as the ladder project before being sent.

I am interested in the possible chipping and gluing you speak of. 

Aaron Wait · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,042

Talk to this guy https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrbTRORJHZl/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=


reading the post it seems like he’s still calling it v14

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

People talk about the rock quality in leavenworth, but it actually isn’t that strong. Most boulder developers are not as industrious as the sport climbers so less glueing occurs.

I honestly wouldn’t even care if the whole thing was manufactured, the only concern I would have would be if it was changed. 

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756
J T wrote:

Consensus is V14…not sure that relevant to what the OP is asking though…

lol wut 

The debate about manufacturing seems to never end. But given the extremely fragile rock in Leavenworth, I would not be surprised if route critical holds broke off over time. The question is then can it be glued, chipped back or left alone. I personally do not care, but as long as no one is trying to make a v14 into a v10, I don't care. I could probably give 50 washington routes that get regularly climbed that have as dubious holds as this picture. 

Shaun Johnson · · Pocatello, ID · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,485

More routes are "enhanced" than most of the climbing world likes admit. I agree that natural climbs are a gift from mother nature, but there are entire areas which are modified from the original form. The climbing can still be fun. 

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Shaun Johnson wrote:

More routes are "enhanced" than most of the climbing world likes admit. I agree that natural climbs are a gift from mother nature, but there are entire areas which are modified from the original form. The climbing can still be fun. 

Again, not what the OP is inferring…or probably even cares about. They are imploring specifically about Penrose Step…let’s stick to Penrose Step people lol 

Aaron Wait · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,042
Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Again, not what the OP is inferring…or probably even cares about. They are imploring specifically about Penrose Step…

Lol JT how do you know so specifically what OP is inferring and/or cares about?

Not Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Aaron Wait wrote:

Lol JT how do you know so specifically what OP is inferring and/or cares about?

lol because they literally asked about a specific hold on a specific route in a regional thread. I believe his exact question was, verbatim, “is that top hold glued on?”    It certainly doesn’t take a genius to deduce that he was asking about a specific climb and not an ethics debate on what is and what is not manufactured as a whole. That’s been discussed at length quite frequently on here. 

One could even further infer that OP actually seems to be primarily concerned with two specific holds. Those being the top hold (insinuating glue) and the start hold (insinuating chipping/chiseling).

Aside from that though, you’re right. We don’t have much to go on….

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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