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Van-safe place for easy sport climbing st george

Original Post
phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

We're driving through St. George in our 21 ft camper van next week. We'll have 1 day mid-week to do some sport climbing there. Or go for a hike (at Red Cliffs Natl Conservation area?). I've done a few routes at Snow Canyon but might be fun to try somewhere else if the trailheads are safe to park a portable house. 

Snow Canyon struck me as trafficked enough by tourists that that would be safe to park in there, but I don't have a clue about other areas.

It's just for 1 day, so don't spend too much of your precious time thinking about this but if anyone has a recommendation for location for a day of sport climbing (5.8-5.10) or a beautiful hike, close to town, I'll figure the rest out.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984

I think St George is pretty safe- maybe some locals can chime in, but I doubt you need to worry about break-ins.

It'll probably be kind of warm, so you may need to seek shade. 

Closest to St George would be Chuckwalla and Turtle Walls. Both steep and physical, mostly 5.10 and above.

Active parking lot.

Black Rocks is surprisingly pleasant short basalt. Park by the side of a moderately busy road. Can climb in sun or shade with more technical, off vert climbing.

If it turns out to be cloudy and cooler, Green Vally Gap is pleasant sandstone. Fairly busy parking lot, mostly with mountain bikers.

If you want to go further afield, Sunset Alley or the Grail (near Mesquite) are much higher quality, but I don't know how your rig would handle the roads.

Kellys/Black and Tan lie off an easier road, but aren't to everyone's taste. 

As for hikes, check out the Vortex. IIRC, its off a paved road. Pretty active parking.

Candy Cliffs is an even better hike (a mini-Wave), but might be still snowy and the road might be an issue.

If you like petroglyphs, there's a great hike out of Santa Clara, the Anasazi trail. Not very busy parking during the week.

Have fun!

If you have trouble googling any of these, send me a DM and I can expound further

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 984

Now that I think about it, Black Rocks may be closed for turtles

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

I enjoyed prophesy wall for sport there. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105717250/prophesy-wall

Jay Goodwin · · OR-NV-CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 13

Second Prophecy Wall. Parking area kind of small but there are additional single vehicle spots

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137
Mark E Dixon wrote:

Now that I think about it, Black Rocks may be closed for turtles

Yes it is. Looked fun though. Would have been a good option. 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll let you know in a couple of weeks what we ended up doing. 

James Barrow · · Saint George. Utah · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 346

Black rocks is closed.   As a local, I'd say break ins are still extremely rare.  

Jodi Friedlander · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5

Phyl! We just got to St. George today from the Woodbury Crags area. We liked Solstice more than Kelly's Rock, BTW. Heading to Prophecy Wall tomorrow for a couple of days. We'll be camping near the wall--about a mile away on BLM land, we've been told. Haven't heard anything about it being unsafe. Would be great to see you. Whatever you decide, have a great time.

Cameron Preston · · St. George, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 181

St George is pretty damn safe. I hardly lock the door to my apartment unless I'm sleeping 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

We decided not to bring the climbing gear on this trip but we will use your suggestions on a future trip.  Photo from the Red Reef hike in Red Cliffs Reserve. People in St George are very polite drivers.  Nice break from the insanity of the roads near LA.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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