What to climb in/around Denver

My climber partner and I are visiting the Denver area (from Boston) for a climbing trip the first week of June and will have 3-4 days to climb. Help us make the most of this trip as neither of us have climbed in Denver and chasing routes based on star rating can be pretty hit or miss. We both lead in the 5.11 range but would be just as happy climbing some big epic climbs in the lower grade ranges. New England is basically all single-pitch so we'd probably rather climb something big and beautiful and not just chase grades. 

The catch: we don't really trad climb (much) and aren't planning on bringing much pro. Shoot us your favorite bolt ladders!

Thanks in advance.

Clear Creek Canyon, North Table Mountain, and Boulder Canyon is your best bet if you’re staying in Denver and not huge on trad. Mainly sport crags (w/ a few gear routes) and lots of routes (especially CCC and BoCan).

If you’re willing to drive, you’ve got Shelf Road a couple hours south (all sport) and some longer, bolted routes on Devils Head Rock and Sheeprock in the Splatte. Good luck!

PS These places are crowded, at least CCC, BoCan and Shelf. Be prepared for

Multi-pitch sport can be hard to find. Upper Dream Canyon has quite a bit, but not much that's easier than 5.11.

wendy weiss wrote:

Multi-pitch sport can be hard to find. Upper Dream Canyon has quite a bit, but not much that's easier than 5.11.

Anywhere you'd recommend with a great collection of single pitch routes? Basically we're just looking for a high volume of awesome climbing.

Take a look at Royal Flush near Frisco.

It's not that great, but if you haven't done much multi-pitch, you won't know any better and I think you'll find it pretty cool :-)

In Clear Creek, you could look at Playin' Hookey or one of its variations, but that might be painfully hot in June.

I believe there are some good multis in Poudre Canyon, but haven't done them. Brown Palace maybe?

Or look for routes up at the Crags near Estes. A bit of a drive, and maybe June will be too early in the season. 

I think some long sport routes have been established. And it's a really nice crag.

Finally, if you are qualified and have the gear, doing a route on the first flatiron is worthwhile. 

I'd recommend the North ridge, but don't think you'd go wrong with any of the choices.

The 2nd Flatiron is a great scramble if that's in your wheelhouse.

Others with more flatirons experience may weigh in, even single pitch cragging can be pretty magical up there.

In any case, climb during the week if at all possible.

Tony Baum wrote:

Anywhere you'd recommend with a great collection of single pitch routes? Basically we're just looking for a high volume of awesome climbing.

Boulder Canyon has a lot of good sport routes. I particularly like Avalon. Creek crossings and tyrolians may be something you'll have to deal with.

One idea:  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105748966/climb-of-the-ancient-mariner

The weather is usually good at Lumpy that time of year (although it's Colorado--could be anything on the actual days you're here).  Climb of the Ancient Mariner is not a sport climb and def needs trad gear, but as it says on the page, the meat of the climb is bolted and trad-protected sections are significantly easier.  I don't think the climb is necessarily a sandbag or especially dangerous, but read the comments before deciding if it's your cup of tea.  The main reasons I suggest it:  Lumpy is a beautiful place and a big step up from the canyons closer to Denver (which are good too), and it's a very good climb (if you like slab).

Edit:  Nevermind, I'm getting old and totally fogot about this:   "Lumpy has been closed for birds until Aug the last few years."

Creekside in clear creek.  Playing hooky or any of the variations up it are good options.  Also plenty to choose from with the dog house and cat slab nearby

Mark E Dixon wrote:

look for routes up at the Crags near Estes. A bit of a drive, and maybe June will be too early in the season. 

I think some long sport routes have been established. And it's a really nice crag.

Weather permitting, this is probably your best bet for quality multi-pitch bolted climbing. 

nbrown wrote:

Weather permitting, this is probably your best bet for quality multi-pitch bolted climbing. 

Mary’s Bust is another good multi-pitch sport crag not far out of Estes

People's Choice is a nice route 5.10 in CCC with 2-3 pitches of height depending on how you break it up. Should be shady in the afternoon in June. Could be a nice way to end a day running around the canyon chasing shade. 

If you can climb 5.11 at places like Farley, Rumney, or the crags in W Maine, you'd be just fine on the various 2-3 pitch 5.11s at Lost Angel in Upper Dream Canyon (Boulder). Check out routes from Autumn -> Divination. These routes are lovely on summer mornings and Upper Dream is a beautiful place to go rock climbing. 

There are a lot of nice moderates in CCC. Check out the Red Slab and Little Eiger. Just be aware that it's a very noisy roadside crag experience. Boulder Canyon also, but not quite as bad. Upper Dream Canyon is much more pleasant and the rock formations are impressive. 

Edit: BTW, I lived in Somerville long, long ago.

pfwein Weinberg wrote:

The weather is usually good at Lumpy ...

Lumpy has been closed for birds until Aug the last few years.

To the OP: Whatever suggestions you get, check with the bird closures here . This was listed in another thread recently. In addition to "all" of Lumpy, there are numerous closures of formations in both Boulder Canyon and Flatirons.

Patrik wrote:

Lumpy has been closed for birds until Aug the last few years.

To the OP: Whatever suggestions you get, check with the bird closures here . This was listed in another thread recently. In addition to "all" of Lumpy, there are numerous closures of formations in both Boulder Canyon and Flatirons.

Yep, I edited my post, totally spaced that out

Zach W wrote:

If you can climb 5.11 at places like Farley, Rumney, or the crags in W Maine, you'd be just fine on the various 2-3 pitch 5.11s at Lost Angel in Upper Dream Canyon (Boulder). Check out routes from Autumn -> Divination. These routes are lovely on summer mornings and Upper Dream is a beautiful place to go rock climbing. 

Thanks everyone for the recommendations and other beta! Farley is our 'home crag' and we're comfortable in the 11s there, so thank you for the context. At this point we've climbed basically every square inch of greasy gneiss NE has to offer so we're super stoked for this trip. 

To another poster, we both live in Somerville now! Great place to live, though the access to solid rock/snow is pitiful. 

Although eldo has a “scary” reputation, which keeps some people away, it has some phenomenal sport climbing in a much more beautiful setting that CCC, Boulder Canyon (in my opinion), but with similar access. Beware the weekend permit system.

It can be hot in June but if you stick to the margins of the day, and chase shade if necessary, you can have an all-time day.

These are all single pitch, but amazing pitches in great settings (many others i wont mention):

Sunset blvd (5.11) - long, steep (for eldo) jueco pulling on W face of bastille

C’est what? (5.11) - short, funky, but really fun route on whale’s tale

Le boomerang, exodus, and TR pansee sauvage (or lead it if you’re feeling bold) all on the S buttress of resgarden. 3 awesome 5.11 pitches

Ignition (5.11+?) and apple strudel (12-) are two side by side great routes higher up on redgarden.

Prince of darkness is a shorter 5.11 slab on upper west ridge with Spicoli right across the way (another fun 5.11) - this area is a little more “out there” feeling than the rest of eldo, no more than 40 min walk out

Aerospace on rincon is nearby the two routes above, and is a freakin’ awesome route! Getting to the first bolt is a little spicy, but a piece of gear or very long stick clip could solve that.

When climbing some of the above, you could benefit from having a piece of gear here or there, just read mtn proj comments to see if you actually do (but remember, the comments always make a route sound scarier than it really is!)

At the very least, you should check out le boomerang area and sunset blvd, just across the creek! (C’est what is also right there!)

Also, im shocked no one has mentioned climbing the “steep” stuff in the flatirons! Some of the best sport climbing in the area, although not multipitch , these are LONG routes! feels like much more of an adventure than CCC or boulder canyon, in a beautiful, almost pre-historic feeling setting and in my opinion, on average has much better climbing!

climbing in june is tricky beware of thunder storms which start about noonish most days

maybe start at sunrise? end by 1pm and maybe climb in the shade

ccc is very noisey with rock truck semi jake brakes bring walkie talkies or earplugs

ccc doesnt have much nature or peace nor any calm

the best multi pitch in the shade is the mission wall via a cable or wade the creek

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105744959

much nicer for nature and cool temps is estes park area  

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105802025

royal flush might be fun if u feel good at over 10,000ft

good luck climbing multi pitch 5.11 at altitude u can prepare by hydrating and pharma and supplements

everyday drink 1/2 your body weight in ounces of pure water (not tap) if u miss a day it takes 72 hours to rehydrate and be fully hydrated 

twice a day drink a hydrator and electrolyte tablets or powder mixed into water

Bumping this since the trip is one week away!

Ignoring the original request for multi pitch, is the Monastery worth the hype? It looks pretty epic but is a bit of a drive and hike so I want to make sure it's worth the effort, especially since we've only got 3 days. Any other thoughts welcome as well!

Thanks!

Just go to Staunton state park - great single and multi pitch sport routes are abound . though many of the multi pitch routes are only 2 pitches , the views are fantastic , the crowds at some of the crags are smaller, there is no road noise, and it is still less than an hour from Denver 

Is Staunton 'noteworthy' or more just pleasant and solid climbing? We're only in town 3 days and are trying to find places that are a bit more unique and 'significant'. 

Tony Baum wrote:

Is Staunton 'noteworthy' or more just pleasant and solid climbing? We're only in town 3 days and are trying to find places that are a bit more unique and 'significant'. 

It’s some of the most concentrated quality single pitch climbing that is in a nice setting, certainly better than the canyons. I’m not sure the multis are ‘significant’ but not much bolted in CO is. Here or the Flatirons are your best bang for your buck for memorable quality single pitch. Monastery is suuuper scenic but kind of brutal climbing, just a bunch of super sunny slabs at the easier grades.

I’d say Wizards Gate, Monitor Rock, Devil's Head or Upper Dream are some CO af experiences for bolted multis at the grades you’re looking at. With plenty of single pitch to do until the/if the storms come. Any of those will be a nice full day up an impressive wall in a scenic area. 

Enjoy your stay and update us how it went!