Rope Protection Reccomendations
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I'm done with the half assed towel over the edge when I'm rapping in to look at new routes, and I'm going to get some proper rope protection sleeves. Any recommendations on which to buy? |
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Here are a couple options. I have one of the Petzl ones and have been happy with it. Moosejaw sells it. |
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A short piece of garden hose works really well for rapping on a fixed line over an edge. |
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Sections of 1" tubular webbing slide over the rope and work great. The pressure against the rock holds them in place while the rope moves around inside the webbing. You can leave sections on the rope and coil it normally. There are always a couple pieces in the bottom of my pack. |
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The Petzl PROTEC is pretty handy as is the DMM k-pro. Gotta pay to play. Otherwise cut a leg off of some old Carhartts and poke a hole for keeper cord. |
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Henry Robinson wrote: ^^^^^^ that, with the caveat that it is a bit restrictive (vs. a wrap around) in certain situations |
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https://pmirope.com/product/spiroll-rope-protector/ I’ve used several brands and garden hose, and really like these spriroll rope protectors. |
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If you have any friends who work in the firefighting world, ask if they have any busted flat 2" hose laying around. It's super tough, about the right size, and makes really nice rope protection. |
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Old bike tire! |
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Spiroll is the way to go. I have 2 and is usually enough. I also use a piece of pool noodle at times. Like anything else that needs to be threaded, it's a bummer because it's really only helpful near the anchor, it's a hassle to thread it and pull it down while rapping. I do it, but the spiroll's easier. I was hopeful I could slit the noodle longways and place it wherever I wanted but the rope will roll the slit down and then fall into the slit. |
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Not what you asked but generally the best thing is to put a bolt or peice of trad gear in to rebelay off of once over the edge. |
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DrRockso RRG wrote: I’ll second this. Using something like the Single Rope Technique from the caving community where you fix your rope to pro on the way down to unweight the rope above and avoid rub points is a better method for most situations than messing around with a rope protector. This also allows you to take tension out of the rope where it crosses dirt or sections of loose rock so you don’t have that stuff coming down when your below. I usually bring a few plate steel wedges to add temporary anchors on the way down and pound, then patch them when I get the route into shape. |
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Henry Robinson wrote: I'll second the recommendation for garden hose. I often put two 2' pieces on the rap line and slide them down with me until I get to a spot(s) where they are needed. |
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conterra-inc.com or fjordinc.com/shop/edge-pro-… |
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EJN wrote: Not a great option unless it’s thoroughly cleaned although I’m not sure all the corrosive foam used in fire hose can be removed |
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The safest option is to rig SRT style but an alternative is to use a rope access wire strop over the edge instead. |
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Spiroll And as soon as you find pro, do a rebelay with a clove hitch. I don’t ever let my rope go over anything I cant see from below. The practice of jugging or rapping on anchor points/over edges you cant see should be eliminated whenever possible. |
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You want the best, and burliest rope protectors out there? |
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The best rope protectors I have are homemade. Vinyl over an old yoga mat with wide velcro running all the way down. The wide velcro is key so that you can put it onto the rope nice and tight (and then no need for a prussic to hold it into place). |
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The Petzl Roctec is a great option. Easy to put on and off , relatively durable considering the use. In my work, geohazard mitigation, and play, obscure route development, I lean on re-anchoring the rope immediately after lowering past the crest. A bolt or gear can be used. Tie an alpine butterfly knot with enough slack on the uphill end to lower past the anchor. Clip in direct to the new anchor, switch your descender to the downhill side of the rope. Reverse and repeat on the way up. |