Lofoten climbing? Or elsewhere in Norway…?

Thinking about a week+ trip to Norway in late August, potentially spending most of all that time in Lofoten. I would likely want to hire a guide as I’d be solo and am adding this trip onto another one I have planned for Scotland that isn’t climbing focused. Any tips for guides out there? Is the weather stable enough for a late August trip? Where’s a good place to stay as a solo traveller? What else should I know?

Ideally would like 3-4 solid days climbing up to 10+, maybe 11- depending on how the grades feel, mixing in some chill days and hiking around. Am also open if people have tips for climbing around Oslo/Bergen and I might save Lofoten for a different trip.

Thanks in advance.  

I'm not a local expert or anything but I've been to Norway a bunch of times and I think Lofoten is your best bet going solo.

The experience will be unforgettable and the climbing is less spread out than in the rest of Norway. There's a climbing community around, a climbing school and a climbing café to act as meet up spot.

August is the right time to go but the weather is never really stable. If it rains all week what's your plan B?

The issue truly is the weather. For example, last year it rained for nearly 3 months straight between June-August. I met a few climbers in Bohuslan (Sweden) in August who had spent a month trying to wait out the rain and finally gave up. If you'll be in Scotland and have some flexibility, I'd actually recommend waiting for a weather window before booking your trip. Logistically this sounds tough but could be worth it. 

That said, Lofoten is definitely a 'bucket list' destination for any climber IMOH. Life is short and who know when you'll get another chance to go so I'd say do whatever you an to make it happen. If it rains all the time then it's a good excuse to practice your wet-weather hiking/camping game. 

Northern Alpine Guides is based in Lofoten. Seth Hobby owns it (I think) and is from the states and married to a Norwegian woman. Good people and good guides. They like to have fun and aren’t so serious as some euro guides.
It's an awesome place to climb and if you get the weather you can get a lot of climbing in in a week. If not it's still an amazing place to explore anyway. Don't miss it.

Thanks all. Yeah my biggest concern is getting rained out but it’s not like that hasn’t happened to me elsewhere. Would just be a little bit of a bummer. I could potentially go in late July/early August prior to heading to Scotland but doesn’t sound like weather is any more stable at that time vs late August? I guess it sounds like it’s never stable! Plus later in August is slightly cheaper.

Sounds like I should just get myself there and hope for the best. I don’t mind hiking around in rain. I did contact the Northern Alpine Guides, so just waiting to hear back what they say.

I definitely agree with doing whatever I can to make it happen!

Mike J wrote:

August is the right time to go but the weather is never really stable. If it rains all week what's your plan B?

Mike, I'm curious:  what would you recommend for a (climbing) plan B during a rainy stretch in Lofoten?  Weather horror stories have kept us away for years but now got a mid-July trip planned.

rpc wrote:

Mike, I'm curious:  what would you recommend for a (climbing) plan B during a rainy stretch in Lofoten?  Weather horror stories have kept us away for years but now got a mid-July trip planned.

Well, preferably get a rental car and drive to wherever there's a big sun on the weather map..

That said, I've had some good rainy days in the mountains too. Sometimes the summit is above the clouds and you climb your way up into a blue bird sky. That's kinda magical.

I was also in Bohuslan last summer and tons of Norwegians came every weekend because it was so rainy all over Norway. If you do go to Lofoten and rain is forecast, consider Bohuslan as an alternative. Much better weather, easy to find partners-I stayed at Haller but previous visits at the BKK-, beautiful rock. That said, Lofotens are unique in the world and on sunny days, the views are spectacular. I have always had sun when I was there but I wasn't climbing during those visits, so maybe I avoided that jinx!