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Best books about historic climbing

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Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

I love learning about climbing history, and I love reading books about climbing. Most climbing books are by big names in modern climbing, however. I know of Hangdog Days and Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rockclimber, and will be reading those soon. What else is out there? 

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60

If you type the word “trad” on MP multiple users will be sure to give you a free climbing history lesson. 

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

K2 The Savage Mountain will really put your complaints about conditions at the crag in perspective  

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

The West Ridge by Dr. Thomas Hornbein.  Great book!

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

The last of his kind - David Robert’s 

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,443

Yankee Rock & Ice

Lynn Hill autobiography

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Paul Preuss: Lord of the Abyss

Bryan E · · Denver · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 15

Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage by Hermann Buhl is worth a read if you are interested in alpinism. Keep in mind that he accomplished everything in that book before dying at the age of 32… 

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,200

Glen Denny - Valley Walls

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
j mo wrote:

Glen Denny - Valley Walls

As someone who climbs in both pinnacles and the valley I am stoked for this one in particular. 

Lots of really good suggestions, I'm gonna read a lot of them! Thanks!

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13

If you can read German - and decipher old German text - then 'Um die Eiger-Nordwand' is probably worth a look. Written in 1938 by the four participants in the first ascent of the face it's probably as close to 'out of the horse's mouth' as you'll get.

Mike J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

I love reading about climbing history, these are a few books that stood out to me as extra memorable and good reads;

Heinrich Harrer - The white spider
Walter Bonatti - Mountains of my life
Gaston Rébuffat - Starlight and storm
Lionel Terray - Conquistadors of the useless
Barry Blanchard - The Calling: A life rocked by mountains
Kelly Cordes - The tower
Simon McCartney - The bond
Bernadette McDonald - Art of freedom: The life and climbs of Voytek Kurtyka

Stephen L · · South + Van · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 166

David Roberts: Deborah & The Mountain of My Fear

The White Spider

Starlight & Storm

Another vote for the Buhl & Bonatti books.

I enjoyed Kelly’s The Tower. A great read.

The Denny book is enjoyable; I just wish it was longer! 

Edit: @Mike- jinx!

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

No Picnic on Mount Kenya.    Terrific story of an escape and climb during WWII.  

PTR · · NEPA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 5

Not terribly historical, but I really enjoyed Steve House, Beyond the Mountain.

Also just finished Jim Perrin's biography of Don Whillans (title: The Villain).  His book on Shipton and Tilman is also good.

Another that I liked recently: Dougal Haston, In High Places.

And a classic: Tom Patey, One Man's Mountains.

Cult classic: Brown and Mitchell, Mountain Days and Bothy Nights: A Walk with Luath.

Murray, Mountaineering in Scotland.

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 172

The Tillman mountaineering books

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

A couple I've really enjoyed:

Climbing in North America - Chris Jones

Wizards of Rock, a History of Free Climbing in America - Pat Ament

Victor Creazzi · · Lafayette CO · Joined Nov 2022 · Points: 0

I enjoyed both 'Revelations' Jerry Moffatt and 'Statement' the Ben Moon story.

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

OK, this isn’t about climbing, but I suspect anyone who climbs would find it an amazing read, and maybe it will inspire you to hang in there during that cold, unplanned bivvy when you think you are really suffering…

The story of Ernest Shackleton’s voyage of the Endurance, the book by Alfred Lansing.

One of the most amazing survival stories you well ever read. 

Ross Goldberg · · El Segundo · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 203

Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hangdogs - John Long

less historical but great read.

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

The Vertical World of Yosemite - collection of stories from the early days of Yosemite climbing curated by Galen Rowell. If you have an interest in Yosemite climbing it's a must read and so darn good. 

50 Classic Climbs of North America - Rock climbing and mountaineering by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.

Downward Bound by Warren Harding

My Life series by Royal Robbins

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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