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Mythos vs Tc Pros on Southern Granite / Gniess, Which are Better?
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About to blow through my Scarpa Maestros which means I am on the hunt for the best southern granite shoe. Im sort of leaning more toward mythos but Ive heard bad reviews about the new design/eco rubber. Tc pros look good but I'm not sure its completely what I'm looking for. Any of you cashiers valley guys have recs? What shoes do yall use for harder routes on granite? |
Leon Jackson wrote: I've heard a lot of that. Most people have had either one or the other and not both shoes so I haven't really been able to find a good comparison. |
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TC pros are great on that granite, especially once they soften up. Mythos are the traditional shoe for the area but have fallen out of favor in recent years. I know proole who still prefer them though.They stretch a ton, or at least used to, and don't edge very well, but can be really good on smeary terrain. |
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I climb in Mythos all the time, and I own one pair of TC Pros. If climbing hard on granite was my main thing, I'd probably switch to the TC Pros. You're going to be able to attack those micro edges better, and they're still pretty good in cracks. The Mythos are way more comfortable. But my main beef with TC Pros is the toe feels like it's in the wrong place. Seems like they shifted it laterally, and my brain keeps wanting it to be more medially located. I'm sure if I climbed in those shoes all the time I'd get used to it. But it messes with my head and I don't need the distraction. As others have mentioned, TC Pros have a break-in period. Be ready to suffer for the first few outings. Hurts almost as bad as the f***ing price tag. |
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A slight bit of thread drift. I have climbed in Mythos for years—the ‘Lady’ because of my small feet. They have been the only shoe that I have found ( and I have tried many) that is both comfortable and climbs well ( at my modest level)—other than dime-edging. But as mentioned above, the new Eco just don’t seem ‘right’—the toe box is different. Any suggestions for other options? As also mentioned by another poster, on the TC Pros the toe positioning just seems wrong—but this is true of almost all shoes that aren’t Mythos (and the discomfort!!!), so that isn’t a great option. I climb on all rock types—though, locally, mostly gneiss and plastic. |
Alan Rubin wrote: Have you considered re-soling your non-eco mythos? Over the years I used to buy new when it was the same model. Now that they switched to the eco, I was worried they would not have the same feel. So I rotate thru my older ones with resoles. Have only resoled them thru one cycle at this point. RE to OP - don’t have TC pros but the mythos are a great all day climbing shoe IMO. I’m doing mostly single pitch on or the occasional multi- on various rock (granit included) and after a few wears they conform to your feet and fit like a glove. Ditto to what the others said about edging, they don’t edge well, but great for smearing. Can’t speak to the new ecos… |
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The new ecos are garbage. Unfortunately I don’t have a better suggestion. I just resole my old ones. |
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I've found my TC pros with XS edge have suited me just fine over various southern granite crags in VA and NC. The one caveat I'd say is climbing at Stone, I think TCs would be fine but having softer rubber like C4 stealth absolutely made a difference for me. I think there I'd trend towards something with stickier rubber rather than a particular shoe. |
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I wouldn't consider mythos for hard granite, but I honestly haven't found a shoe that fits better than the tc. Try em on and see which fits your foot better. Many people (especially women) seem to have achilles problems with tc, but I love the way it hugs the back of my foot and supports it for edging. Mythos seem to fit better in tighter cracks but don't edge as well. Utlimately there are so many good options, you'd do best if you can get to a well stocked store and try on a bunch of options. I've found the shoe that fits best performs the best. |
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It would be a shame if everyone forgot about the miura lace. :( https://www.lasportiva.com/media/mageplaza/blog/auth/t/o/tommy-caldwell-_c_-corey-rich_1.jpg |
Colonel Sandbag wrote: Good call, Colonel. |
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I think it depends on your foot. I prefer the Muiras to the TCs by a mile. Never tried the Mythos, but I bet I’d like them. |
Curtis Baird wrote: If you like sloppy shoes that stretch out like a condom, you’ll absolutely love them. |
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TC Pro > Mythos and it's not even close. Especially if you're a mediocre climber like me. They can make up for your footwork shortcomings |
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My old tc pros were great, not happy with the new ones. I find I can only get two resoles out of a pair of shoes. |
