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Proposal: Goat Screw Wednesdays
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The vast majority of threads on the proj in one way or another, seem to highlight the inevitable conflicts due to a growing sport with a concomitant “widening” of the skills/experience gap among participants. In short, more and more people of various abilities are going for the same limited resources. In order to bring a small bit of improved order and understanding to the whole impending summer chaos, I propose the following; (all voluntary of course, no absolute “rules” here) During the months of June, July, August, Wednesdays are the target day for families, noobs, Gumbies, etc to go out and expand the envelope of their horror show. As for anyone else going up a classic on a summer “Goat Screw Weds” you have no basis for bitching about slow teams, etiquette, etc. you know ahead of time it’s gonna be a shit show out there. They get precedence and a free learning pass for questionable practices. By the same token, Mon/Tues are targeted for speed ascents, FKTs, or otherwise solid teams that have their shit wired tight. If you’re not in that category, avoid choice climbs you’re not 100% solid for, and/or give precedence to those who are and let them pass or go ahead. In short, avoid taking your shit show on the road on a Monday or Tuesday. All others days of the week/weekends it’s the regular bar room brawl it’s always been. |
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I have to respectfully disagree here. Having witnessed the climbing boom over the past decade, I would certainly still prefer the empty crags, the birds chirping, and the lack of erosion. I believe the key to keeping our crags as pristine as possible is keeping the mentorship and collaborative culture of climbing alive. Imagine if alllllllll the gumby's had a day to themselves at the crag, with no one to pass on any safety or etiquette tips that were once passed to us? The experienced climbers may arrive to the crag the next day and, while seeing no gumbies in sight, may see food wrappers & diapers on the ground, wag bags left behind, stuck ropes/ gear hanging off of routes, etc. Advocating for proper crag behavior & having an open mind to receiving feedback will preserve our crags and ultimately lead to a much better experience for all in the long term then bucketing the respective group interests into their own days to isolate their perspectives. |
Mark Pilate wrote:  |
Oliver Richman wrote: ?? I think you’re taking this further or more absolute than intended (or even possible or realistic). Both your wishes and concerns are in play everyday regardless, and are more in the realm of common courtesy and respect for resources, etc. Nothing in my proposal changes anything other than rightful bitching precedence. Which, let’s be honest, is really everything I’m merely suggesting (sort of, and theoretically) that on Weds, don’t bitch about the slow Gumby team with PAS, radios, gaiters, and hexes trying to figure out where they left the quad….you knew they’d be there. This is their judgment free day. If they leave diapers or wrappers at the belay, say something, but even I’d likely give them credit for knowing not to do that. Then, if on a Tuesday, a competent team asks to pass as you gulp water at your 5 point anchor as you and your buddy sort thru your quadruple rack for the next pitch on the Petit Grepon, don’t bitch or hesitate . Let ‘em pass, they have right of way. |
Oliver Richman wrote: Okay, I'm listening. Tell me more. |
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Reminds me of the mighty alpinist McGregor...who climbed heinous peaks in hobnails, old school. Put up a nasty line on the Eiger solo, was he known for this? hell no Between climbs, quite the artisan, sculpted many a town square statue, a few in Savannah, was he ever known for this? oh hell no Also designed and built these magnificant houses and castle, was he known for his mastery of architecture and masonry? no, of course not You screw one goat.... |
Mark Pilate wrote: I kinda like partitioning those off that way. It could go by “Rooster Tuesday” a la “Climbing is a dung heap and I am but the cock that crows upon it.” ;) |
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*Grabbing popcorn. But unfortunately, I worry this post isn't QUITE deadpan enough to create a sh*tstorm, i.e., the responses in the type of Oliver taking this semi-seriously may be outweighed by the silent majority chuckling at the joke but taking a pass in engagement. Which is unfortunate because Wednesday really is an excellent day for Gumbying. I always try to Gumby on Wednesdays. The rest of the days are good as well. |
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Sounds like a good reason to promote gym climbing as the functional, friendly, and eco-conscious alternative to dirty, buggy, high impact and footprint outdoor climbing. Climb at the gym. It’s for the environment. You’re not missing a damn thing out there |
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Have you heard of weather windows? Or work schedules? Surely you have a job and know about weather in Minnesota. I'm sure there are crags that experience serious traffic on the weekdays, but I've never visited any. Aside from changing our basic economic system (which I'm all for), I don't see how you get around the issue that most people have the same days off. In terms of sustainability for climbing and rocks, there are better things to focus on than designating particular days for certain groups. Spreading out is probably the best way to deal with traffic. I'm usually surprised that people aren't willing to walk/drive a little bit further to have a less crowded experience. At least in the west, there are SO many crags and SO much rock. The issue is that guidebooks and mountain project aren't rating them highly, so people congregate on the easier classics. Yes they're classic for a reason, but there are plenty of amazing sleeper climbs out there (developed or not). |
Mark Pilate wrote: goat screw Wednesday followed by man-love Thursday... oh wait that was just in Afghanistan.... rule 1 never go down to the ANA barracks Thursday night cuz you never know what you're gonna see |
