Post Achilles rupture - climbing shoes

For background I tore my Achilles a little over two years ago, had it surgically repaired, had ongoing issues and had to have another surgery where they shorted the Achilles and transferred my FHL (the tendon that curls your big toe). I’m a little over four months post op and can weight bear out of the boot, but I’m not sure what to do about climbing shoes.

My Achilles is still pretty swollen/tender and likely will be for a long time, plus I’m nervous to have the back of a climbing shoe digging into it. I was thinking about maybe cutting the heel of an old climbing shoe? Anyone experienced this before or have suggestions? 

First off, good luck with your recovery.

I tore my Achilles on a lead fall and had reattachment surgery in 2009. Post surgery and PT (about 6mo out) I found that I could not wear the aggressive climbing shoes that I had been using due to tendon soreness and fit (scar tissue). I  changed to a more comfortable shoe (LS Katana) and continued climbing and training. It took some time before multi-pitch routes were possible but it is not an issue now. I was even able to start wearing the old shoes (with a resole) again.

Cutting open the back of an old pair of shoes sounds like a good first step. Then as it heals more, find a pair of shoes that don’t put direct pressure on the tendon and don’t size them too aggressively. Just the simple step of loosening the laces or removing your shoes on a ledge makes a difference. It could take some time but should improve. Best of Luck.

Michael

Are you icing aggressively?  That and anti inflammatories will help. I think surgeon skill has a bit to with it also but obviously your surgery involved more than the standard repair.
I had no trouble with shoes at 3 months when the doc said I could climb again but I wear LS Mythos which are a very comfy shoe without a shaped heel. Maybe try those.
PS Heel is still a bit swollen 6 months out but does not interfere w shoe. 

Another vote for Mythos.

I had my Achilles surgically repaired 20 years ago. Continued with Anasazis for several years after, then made the switch to Mythos. I've been climbing in those almost exclusively for about 15 years now. I can wear them all day without discomfort.

Part of your rehab will include stretches for your Achillies. Keep doing them. To this day if I stop stretching for a while I'll notice a difference.

I've found three solutions:

- Socks+ an oversized pair lets the slingshot rand pressure be redistributed more evenly

- Several Mad Rock models (yes, I know...) have very low tension on the achilles but still have very well fitting heels. I'm not sure how they do it - lower arch tension I guess?. They fit snugly but the tightness doesn't increase exponentially when you drop your heels like most shoes.

- If you can't get by without your favorite aggressive shoes, you can take an xacto knife/boxcutter and make a series of vertical cuts partway into the slingshot (be careful - if you cut too deep it'll progressively tear more and more under the tension when worn and you might end up with the shoe split in half after a few sessions). I'd make series of faint passes at most halfway through the slingshot rubber. I did this to 2 pairs, one of which I cut too deeply (completely through the rubber down to the leather) and eventually had to glue on a piece of fabric inside the heel cup under the ball of my ankle to hold the heel together, and one of which I wound up doing 'just right' that's now my favorite hard sport shoe (a pair of Kataki's whose slingshot was originally so tight I couldn't drop my heels at all to smear). 

I recommend the 5.10 Niad moccasym, upsized 1/2 size from your street shoe size

I had a partial rupture about 10 years ago from a fall. While getting back into climbing, I would take a hairdryer to the back of my shoes and use a wood spoon to stretch the rubber around the Achilles open. With about an hour of working the shoe, I would have pretty good results. Climbing does put a ton of pressure Achilles, so take it easy for a year or so and consider an ankle brace for a couple years after while climbing. I unfortunately did some irreversible damage to my toe joints with compensating movements by trying to get back into significant activity too quickly; don’t do that.  

Good luck on the recovery, it does get better! Keep up with the PT, and do not work into the pain. It took me a while to learn that last part. But as of today, I can’t tell the difference between my injured Achilles and my regular one. 

I’ve had Achilles tendinitis now and then, over the years. And I could get it again if I don’t do the following, the first five of which were recommended by my PT:

Stretch the Achilles by flexing the front of your foot upward, before walking. Wear looser-fitting shoes. Put heel cushions in all of the shoes you wear. Don’t wear shoes that rub the Achilles. Ice your Achilles after activities and before going to sleep. Cut many slits through the rubber around the heel/tensioning rands of climbing shoes and stretch the shoes. I made the mistake of totally cutting out the backs of some heel rands, which leaves uncomfortably sharp edges that dig into the lower heel and allow the shoes to fall off—unless you wrap laces or tape around the insteps. I would NOT cut all the way through the shoe leather.