Lake Tahoe Bouldering

Hi,

comming from Europe I get a bit overwhelmed by the 4 guidebooks for lake tahoe bouldering.

Any suggestions which of the guidebooks would be the best to buy considering following points:

- boulder between V4 and V9

- no high-ball

- relatively family friendly (short approach and flat ground)

- around beginning of may until beginning of june

Andreas Weier wrote:

Hi,

comming from Europe I get a bit overwhelmed by the 4 guidebooks for lake tahoe bouldering.

Any suggestions which of the guidebooks would be the best to buy considering following points:

- boulder between V4 and V9

- no high-ball

- relatively family friendly (short approach and flat ground)

- around beginning of may until beginning of june

The crux may be your timing. Tahoe has gotten 12+ m of snow in some areas this winter

Actually we will be moving in a van so not bounded to any shore at all.

And yes, I red in the news that you got an extremely snow patch this year! Would have appreciate to get some in the alpes too we have the driest winter since ever here

Todd Berlier wrote:

John is correct, i think this is going to be the biggest year on record or close for snow.  that said stuff at about 6500 feet or lower should be good by then. 

I appreciate Todd's optimism, and agree with his general suggestion that the south side of the lake is likely to have better conditions than the north side.  Much of the Donner region (north side) may be snowy until July at this rate. South side has some areas that will melt out sooner, and otherwise would meet your interests.

That said, I'd strongly recommend having a backup plan to go to if this pattern continues. Conditions could still be pretty bad. There will certainly be some dry options, but you may be limited for choice - perhaps not ideal for a 1-month trip. Also, much of the best rock in Tahoe - many of the areas that make it super destination-worthy - are the higher elevation ridgeline areas that will still be snowy.  Be prepared to shift to somewhere else if Tahoe is still too snowy or otherwise in bad condition. Especially for the first half of May. For instance, Leavenworth is within a 1 day drive, has good granite bouldering comparable to Tahoe, and would likely be dry in early May. 

As folks have said, its going to be snow dependent this year, although my guess is there will still be plenty of options around lake level come June.

You can also consider Bishop area as an alternative since ya got a van, climb mornings and evenings if its hot, and even moonlight sends.
Also tons of hiking and exploring to be had down there as well, w/ camping options not hard to come by at all.

Mr Rogers wrote:

As folks have said, its going to be snow dependent this year, although my guess is there will still be plenty of options around lake level come June.

June, yes.  Start of their trip in early May? Options could be limited.  Assuming with the notes on "family friendly short approaches", not wanting to deal with snow.

Rainbow boulders would be a great place for you. boulders are easy to find are practically roadside. 

Mammoth Lakes and June Lake also have some fun options 2-3 hrs away.  Good camping and I think the snow likely will melt faster than people think.  I lived out there a while, one year had a similar amount of snow to this one.

Tahoe is great too.  There will for sure be plenty of areas climbable.  If weather is funky sometime the woodfords canyon boulders dry quick.

Mr Rogers wrote:

As folks have said, its going to be snow dependent this year, although my guess is there will still be plenty of options around lake level come June.

You can also consider Bishop area as an alternative since ya got a van, climb mornings and evenings if its hot, and even moonlight sends.
Also tons of hiking and exploring to be had down there as well, w/ camping options not hard to come by at all.

Bishop isn't gonna work.  The roads are all washed out and you can't even drive to the Happies.  Buttermilk road isn't passable either due to all the rain, and it keeps getting worse.  The central sierra hasn't had this much snow in a winter in recorded history (past 70 years or so).

rock freak wrote:

Bishop isn't gonna work.  The roads are all washed out and you can't even drive to the Happies.  Buttermilk road isn't passable either due to all the rain, and it keeps getting worse.  The central sierra hasn't had this much snow in a winter in recorded history (past 70 years or so).

You are correct. The roads were not washed out when I posted. It is pertinent info for the OP however.

When the municipality will finish taking care of the roads is any ones guess, I'm sure there are higher priorities than chalk bluff rd and buttermilk rd but likely will get more attention / man power thrown at it as weather improves... the local economy benefits quite a bit from climbers... I say that as more snow/rain shit on us last night.

FWIW They were working on chalk bluff rd as of march 23rd.