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Sardinia in beginning of September

Original Post
Lindsay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 273

Hi all! I'm gonna be in Italy and was looking to do a 10 day climbing trip at the beginning of September. Sardinia is looking pretty amazing. Will September be too hot? I have Raynauds, so I usually prefer slightly warmer weather and don't mind chasing the shade, but I want to make sure I'd have some options. And secondly, will I need to rent a car? I was reading that if you stay at Nannai Climbing Home, you don't need a car, but looking on here, the crags seem very spread out. Any info or beta would be greatly appreciated!

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

In the area where Nannai’s is located (Ulassai, Jerzu) you should be okay in September. The area is high up and has various crags in and out of the shade at different times of the day. Other areas, closer to the coast, will likely be significantly warmer at that time of the year, though there will also be some shady options. A car would be helpful ( for instance, how do you plan on getting from the airport to Nannai’s —none of them are close and I’m guessing that public transit to there would be ‘challenging’), but once there, I expect that you would find other climbers willing to give you a lift.

Lindsay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 273

Thanks so much for the info, Alan! It's very helpful. Nannai offers an airport pickup service now, which is why I'm tempted to forego the car if there is enough to do in the area. I love climbs that are on the steeper side and would love to climb a bunch of 7s. From what I was reading online, I think this place fits the bill but if there are other spectacular crags that are in season and not to be missed, I can buck up and rent a car. There's a decent chance I'll be alone so I wanted a place that is easy to find partners, hence why I'm thinking of staying at Nannai. 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I was only in Sardinia once and that was before there was much development around Ulassai. I did climb at Jerzu—and the ‘specialty’ there seemed to be vertical or slightly above or below, fingery face climbs—which I love, not so much juggy overhangs though. Plenty of 7s. One place that we climbed that had plenty of overhangs—juggy and otherwise, was Isilli, which will also have shaded crags throughout much of the day, but that is a fair trek from Ulassi. Undoubtedly there are other areas closer.

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

Been to Sardinia the last few Falls - mid October to early November, and might go back this year. It is great, but very warm. Ulassi is amazing and should be good in September. Climbs (7s) are near vert or slightly overhung, but not juggy. The area around Santa Maria is very nice as well, but finding shade is a necessity. Last year, even in early November, the crags in the sun were too warm to climb (Cala Gonone area). The snorkeling in Sept is very nice, and beaches should be quiet - I'd get a car for sure.

Joe

Lindsay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 273

Thanks so much for both of your answers! This is very helpful. I've found a couple of partners and we're gonna get a car. Sounds like if we go, we'd just be limited to Ulassai, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. We have also been tossing around the idea of going to Arco as well, since my partners will be flying into Milan. We'll just be doing sport. I'm still leaning towards Sardinia because it looks so cool. For the time of year, would you choose one over the other? 

Chris Winter · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 315

Arco vs Sardinia - Kind of depends on what kind of climbing you are looking for. 

Moderates at Arco are incredibly polished, some of the most polished stone anywhere. September is a great time for alpine climbing in the Dolomites and longer routes. 

Ulassai in Sardinia is beautiful, and the climbing is mostly vertical on technical limestone with quite long routes across a spread of grades. A lot of the climbing there is more recently developed, so it's not nearly as polished. 

Lindsay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 273

Y'all are the coolest. Thanks for all the great info! I had heard the routes in Arco are very polished. I'm not necessarily looking for moderates, but it makes me think the classics in the area might be pretty polished as well. Since I'm pretty spoiled with gritty southeast sandstone, and I don't want to climb something with the friction of a marble statue, I think I will go to Sardinia to enjoy those newer long routes :) Thanks again!

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

Good choice. I stayed in Santa Maria, and decided to drive to Ulassai one day. Was so nice, I drove there 2-3 more days and if I go back, I'll stay closer. "Moderates" means something a little different out here/there - basically anything under 8a (.13b) is moderate and sees polish. Ulassai is already seeing some on the popular 7s, but nothing like Arco. Have fun - it will be difficult not to.

Joe

Lindsay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 273
Joe Prescott wrote:

"Moderates" means something a little different out here/there - basically anything under 8a (.13b) is moderate and sees polish. 

Lol then I definitely made the right choice! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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