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Dyneema sling retirement

Original Post
Dan Rapp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Are people retiring their dyneema slings after five years? Their lifespan??  Mine don’t seem ready to give up 

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 405
Dan Rappwrote:

Are people retiring their dyneema slings after five years? Their lifespan??  Mine don’t seem ready to give up 

It depends on the usage, not the number of years.  Once frayed, the skinny ones do not have much safety margin.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

Everyone has different standards but in general once visibly fuzzy/worn probably due.   But that’s subjective obviously.  If you don’t climb a lot and they are stored properly no need to replace every 5-10 years.   Studies have not shown meaningful degradation aging from proper storage.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

Post photos if you’re unsure.   Generally the people asking about replacing are being overly careful. Which is probably a good thing!


It’s the dirtbags climbing on tattered ropes and ancient  slings that have softgoods that actually may be at risk for breakage in normal use.

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 738

Reasonably fuzzy slings breaking at 16kN:
https://youtu.be/NwbMfh4FqT4?t=147

Generally once they get worse than that I'll retire them when I notice. I don't keep track of how old they are.

Dan Rapp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

Thanks. Good info 

Kanyu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 5

Is there an organization I can send retired slings (or rope or harness) to for their use in break testing and data gathering?  It seems that retired gear would be useful for data collection purpose before going to the trash bin.

Stefan Jacobsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0

Hownot2 test confirms study by Deutscher Alpenverein. In general: Fuzzy dyneema slings are weaker than fuzzy nylon slings, and they wear faster probably because of less material.
https://www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/1710c3f7-77d8-c1dd-d63b-f619124ee2c1/Aging-of-Slings_26368.pdf

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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