Shoes for small heel??

I have tried on the La Sportiva Theory, and the Scarpaq Veloce, and for the theory, there is a lot of extra space in the middle, almost as if the closure was not effective enough, and for the Veloce, I had almost a centimeter of dead space in the heel. I have heard that the Solution Comp has a slimmer heel, does anyone have recommendations for moderate to aggressive climbing shoes with a small heel?

My younger son really likes his Evolv Shaman LVs.

A few other options:

La Sportiva Katana Lace - wmns

Tenaya Oasi LV

And the shoe with the most low volume heel on the market: Mad Rock Drone (Seriously)

(For most companies, LV and Wmns are one in the same.)

Personally, I find that shoes with a narrow, deep heel cup fit me best. This means that most La Sportiva and some Scarpa's don't fit my heel well. The Unparallel TN Pro has the best fitting heel of any shoe I have ever worn. The Unparallel Lyra also has a great heel. The old 5.10 Dragons, Teams, and Blackwing all fit me very well, but they're no longer in production. 

Edit: I wanted to add that in general women's and low volume models of shoes don't work for me. I'm not sure if there is less heel tension, or the heel cup isn't as deep, but the heel never seems to fit as well.

I'll say the opposite of what the above poster said.  Try women's shoes- the skwama and miura both have smaller heels.

Might be worth figuring out if it's a low volume heel/foot issue, or a foot shape issue. For me it was the latter - with most La Sportiva shoes, if my heel fits, the toes are way too narrow and vice versa. Most low volume shoes actually don't work for me because my toes are wide. The Scarpa Instinct and Tenaya Mastia work well for me. 

After years of never trying them, I've found some  evolv work really well for my duck feet (relatively low volume heel, high arch, wide toes). Specifically the Evolv Oracle

climbing00 wrote:

Personally, I find that shoes with a narrow, deep heel cup fit me best. This means that most La Sportiva and some Scarpa's don't fit my heel well. The Unparallel TN Pro has the best fitting heel of any shoe I have ever worn. The Unparallel Lyra also has a great heel. The old 5.10 Dragons, Teams, and Blackwing all fit me very well, but they're no longer in production. 

Edit: I wanted to add that in general women's and low volume models of shoes don't work for me. I'm not sure if there is less heel tension, or the heel cup isn't as deep, but the heel never seems to fit as well.

I’d also say that the Unparallel Vims have a pretty narrow heel

Whether or not your heel fits well will depend on two things, your heel depth and your heel width. Many performance shoes on the market are designed for people with somewhat bulbous heels, and finding ones that will fit you better if your heel is skinny or lower volume can be difficult. If you can figure out which of those attribute is your main problem (it could be both), hopefully this will give you an idea of what shoes/brands to check out!

For shoes with skinny heels, regardless of there volume or depth:

La Spo Mantra, La Spo Futura Womens and La Spo Miura VS Womens. Evolv Shamen LV and Phantom LV seem pretty narrow, Mad Rock Drone LV

Many scarpa models, particularly the womens models but I am not super familiar with their range. Most Unparallel models with the exception of the HV Flagship and Up Mocc. Most Tenaya models except the Mastia and Indalo. Generally when looking online look for shoes that seem pinched in the back. Large moulded heel cups like the La sportiva S-heel will not be good for you.

For shoes with shallow or low volume heel cups, regardless of heel width:

Evolv Shamen LV, Evolv Rave.

Many La Sportiva models except the Skwama, Otaki, and Solution which are the main performance shoes. Again most Tenayas and Womens Scarpas will be good. Avoid Unparallel, they are skinny but most are very very deep. 

Good Luck!

I have considered low volume shoes, but wear a size 44, and most manufacturers don't make low volume shoes that large. 

Men's version of the Theory didn't fit my heel at all. Women's Theory fits like it's molded to my foot. Try women's versions of your options for low volume.

The LV Madrock Drones fit my narrow heel perfectly. Went down 1 size from street shoe and it’s really comfortable now. The break in sucked though. 

I normally boulder in the LS solutions, but they’ve never fit my heel well. I have dead space behind my heel, and they slip when I heel hook unless I’m super cinched down. I think the heel cup is too bulbous for me. Can anyone recommend a shoe that is similar to the solution but with a shallower heel cup?

(Op I can delete this comment if I’m thread jacking. Seemed like you had your answer, so I thought they could do me next.) 

Creed Archibald wrote:

I normally boulder in the LS solutions, but they’ve never fit my heel well. I have dead space behind my heel, and they slip when I heel hook unless I’m super cinched down. I think the heel cup is too bulbous for me. Can anyone recommend a shoe that is similar to the solution but with a shallower heel cup?

(Op I can delete this comment if I’m thread jacking. Seemed like you had your answer, so I thought they could do me next.) 

The Madrock Drone or Scarpa Insinct VS are probably your best bets. I think the Madrock is most similar to the solution overall if that is really what you are shooting for, but both shoes are awesome. 

Both heels are pretty shallow, but the Madrock is fairly narrow and the Instinct is kinda wide unless you get the LV so keep that in mind. Again as everyone said above, if your feet are not too wide in the toe box getting LV or Women's models will probably be your best bet for a good heel fit and might actually perform better for you if you are a lighter climber. Good luck!

Most shoes are too big in the heel for me. Most of the aggressive downturned shoes don’t work for me. I have tried many over the years, too many too list. But La Sportiva Testarossas fit perfectly. For a more comfy, less aggressive, but still slightly downturned shoes, I have recently discovered La Sportiva Kubo have a good fit for me. 

I love my Drone LVs (and the CS LV's as well!) for my narrow heels.

OC Climber wrote:

I love my Drone LVs (and the CS LV's as well!) for my narrow heels.

Nobody seems to carry the drone. Can you comment on sizing? 

Update: I tried a Drone LV and the toe box is way too narrow for me. My pinky toe feels like it’s getting squished. (I downsized 1/2 size from my street shoe.) In the words of Bono, “I still haven’t found what I’m looking for.”

Can confirm for the mad rock drones and cs versions that the heel fits really well on the heels especially if you have narrow ones. Evolv shaman and shaman pro's fit the heels really well also.

Climb On wrote:

I'll say the opposite of what the above poster said.  Try women's shoes- the skwama and miura both have smaller heels.

I second the Skwamas! And Tenaya. Ra for slab