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Harness for Ice and Rock?

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B C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Looking at finally getting a new harness and building my own racks. What is a good harness for both ice and rock? Preferably with symmetrical gear loop placement.

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

I love my BD TECHNICIAN, the gear loops are kinda small, but the 4 ice clipper slots are great. I do everything with it, Sport, trad, alpine, ice, aid, gym. I works for me but i am going to get a dedicated aid harness

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

I also use the BD Technician for ice and alpine and really like it. I haven't noticed an problems with the gear loops and having the 4 clipper spots is great. I use a BD Momentum for gym climbing because I already had it and like to have separate harnesses for indoor vs outdoor climbing.

Nick Turcotte · · Newport, RI · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

I'm a big fan of my Arcteryx AR-395

lou amorati · · Worcester MA · Joined Aug 2022 · Points: 0
Nick Turcotte wrote:

I'm a big fan of my Arcteryx AR-395

I've been trying to get my hands on one of these for a year now.  They are out of stock everywhere!

Steve P · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 73

I agree with Nick about the AR-395.  A well-executed piece of gear.  Huge gear loops that slant forward and are a little floppy (kind of prefer it over the rigidly-shaped/molded loops), ice clipper slots, and ironically the most comfortable harness I’ve ever sat in despite being the least padded.

B C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

AR-395 seems to be a no go, but I can get the technician everywhere. Any other preferences?

Steve P · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 73

I used to use the Mammut Togir 3 Slide.  It’s a little bulkier than the AR-395 but I remember it being a pleasant harness overall.  The new version (v2.0?) looks like it has front gear loops of the same style as the AR-395, and it has ice clipper slots.  My only issue with it (aside from bulk) was that wherever I fit within their sizing, the harness size that fit me best resulted in some asymmetry of the gear loops that I didn’t like so much.


For trad, I never was fond of hard-molded and smallish gear loops of BD harnesses… even with strategically stacked gear, it felt too cramped.

B C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Any experience with the Mammut comfort harness? I'm not familiar with their offerings, but it looks nice.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I enjoy my bd solution guide, I have used it for everything, the regular solution would be superior for ice.

Use petzl caritools and you won't need clipper slots. 

Jared Angle · · Arlington, VA · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 5
Finn Lanvers wrote:

I love my BD TECHNICIAN, the gear loops are kinda small, but the 4 ice clipper slots are great. I do everything with it, Sport, trad, alpine, ice, aid, gym. I works for me but i am going to get a dedicated aid harness

I’m using this one as well, big fan of the thinner dyneema belay loop 

Pieter Beerepoot · · Boston, MA · Joined Dec 2022 · Points: 0
B C wrote:

Any experience with the Mammut comfort harness? I'm not familiar with their offerings, but it looks nice.

I have one. I got it for ice but think it’s too bulky and didn’t like the ice clipper placement. On top of that when I wear it over all my layers it’s off center so I’d have to size up to get it to fit right.  I use it for trad climbing and like it tor that, switched to a arcteryx AR-395 for ice 

B C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Are any of the Petzl harnesses worth buying? I know they had some issues previously.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
B C wrote:

Are any of the Petzl harnesses worth buying? I know they had some issues previously.

In line with others above, I have the AR-395 and BD Technician and have no complaints for either.   Would buy again.  I have Petzls from a few years back and they are “OK”, but I’d look at Blue Ice options before Petzl…..if I decide to waste more of my money on more gear that I don’t really need…which is a given 

Cooper Stewart · · Renton, WA · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 5

Arcteryx C Quence is also great, I love mine

B C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2022 · Points: 0

Is the AR395 worth the price (double) vs the BD technician?

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25
B C wrote:

Is the AR395 worth the price (double) vs the BD technician?

I bought it specifically to answer that question objectively.  

Short Answer is No. 

I give it a very slight nod over the technician, mainly gear loops, but price is not commensurate with benefits 

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

It seems like it shoudl be easy but it's so hard to find...

  • Four, large, well spaced, sensible gear loops (no flat or folding or tiny or fiddly rear loops)
  • Four ice clipper slots spaced between the gear loops (not within the gear loops which makes everything more crowded)

I have an older mammut harnbess that has these features but it's no longer made...the only modern harness that has these features is the AR395.  

-Here are some questions to ponder:

-Do folks think the AR395 will still be produced maybe in a new color scheme?  Or will it be replaced by newer designs?

-Why are BD rear loops so ridiculously small?

-Why are so few Petzl harnesses made in XL?

-How/why are things like the Caritool that fit anywhere on a harness possibly a substitute for real ice clipper slots?  

-Some harnesses like the new Mammut harness boast of ten or more ice clipper slots...how many of these are practical and usable, especially when they are so low and thin, and when they occupy the same space as a gear loop?

-Why is is an advantage to have rear gear loops made of thin/flimsy/fiddly material?  Most lead/climbingb packs are light and sit small and high above the harness anyway...and faffing around for gear on these small loops is inefficient and frustrating...

And so on...I think the options out there right now are limited and/or terrible :(

Victor Machtel · · Netherlands · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

I just ordered a Mammut Sender Fast Adjust because it seems to tick a lot (sadly not all) of the boxes a good ice/allround harness should tick. I'm a pretty average guy size wise so that makes it a little bit easier for me (sorry Bruno...).

-All buckles adjustable for layering

-Four gear loops of generous proportions (sadly the back gear loops are soft but they are pretty big)

-Four ice clippers placed between or in front of the gear loops, not within

-Weight is decent, not super light but not too heavy to pack either. 

 It should arrive in the next few days. I hope it solves some of the problems I have with my Petzl Hirundos (only two ice clippers and gear loops are tiny). 

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Yeah, BD Technician.  My everything harness.

John Edwin · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 0

If I’m taking so much gear that I’m worried about the size of the BD Technician gear loops, I’m going to be using slings personally 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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