Need a new harness and don't know what to pick

Title gives you the TL;DR: I have lost a lot of weight in the last year and realized recently that my current harness (a petzl luna size small) is way too big (fails the test where you slide a hand in and try to pull a fist out + sags onto the wider part of my hips when I put any gear on it, yes, just sport draws included). I am looking for a new harness that fits me better and am stumped because I wasn't planning on buying a new one so soon. The obvious answer was another luna, but I tried one on this afternoon in an XS and the rise was not high enough. 

If anyone has advice for good harnesses on the market right now that would be great. My requirements are a higher rise than the luna, 5 gear loops (size of loops negotiable, I just like the organization of 5, larger obviously better though), comfortable for both single pitch sport whips and hanging for multipitch trad days (extremely important, I bought the luna to replace a BD primrose because the BD harness didn't have enough leg padding and was bruising my inner thighs when hanging or taking falls), mid to low profile (nothing like the BD big gun/ misty cadillac) and generally affordable (willing to spend in the $100-$150 range). 

Bonus points if its sold at Miguels in the Red, the Gendarme in Seneca Rocks, or any gear supplier in Ohio. 

I got my daughter one by mamut for christmas but she did all the research on it and I can't remember the model bot she is a hard fit and found it was best for her. Had to go through rei for it. Maybe not much help but might be worth a look.

My partner is tiny and struggled with the various XS harnesses on the market. Settled on the Ocun Neon 3 lady. This was after trying 10-12 at various retail locations. She has repeatedly mentioned that she didn’t know a harness could be that comfortable. 

Did you find a harness yet? I have a brand new DMM Vixen harness size small. If you are interested I’ll tell you more about it and negotiate price. It is brand new but check this out - dmmwales.com/climbing-produ…

JeanGClimbs wrote:

Did you find a harness yet? I have a brand new DMM Vixen harness size small. If you are interested I’ll tell you more about it and negotiate price. It is brand new but check this out - dmmwales.com/climbing-produ…

I'm not opposed to that harness in particular but am really trying to make sure I can try whatever I buy on first. I tried on several last night and found the leg loops dug into the outside of my thighs really badly after less than 5 minutes of hanging.

bearded sam wrote:

My partner is tiny and struggled with the various XS harnesses on the market. Settled on the Ocun Neon 3 lady. This was after trying 10-12 at various retail locations. She has repeatedly mentioned that she didn’t know a harness could be that comfortable. 

How does she feel about the leg loops? I've found that my main issue with harnesses is the leg loops pressing on my thighs uncomfortably and causing bruising, even after only hanging for 5 minutes

Rachel, I just PM'd you. I can arrange for you to try this harness and send it back to me if you don't want to keep it. See the PM and here's a photo with the receipt showing.

Following. I'm at a loss to. Autana was relatively comfortable when I tried it on but I was skeptical how it would do in action

Rachel Crowl wrote:

How does she feel about the leg loops? I've found that my main issue with harnesses is the leg loops pressing on my thighs uncomfortably and causing bruising, even after only hanging for 5 minutes

Hi Rachel, do you know if the other harnesses that you have had this issue with have leg loops that get tight enough? Is there an issue with the alignment of the buckle in such a way that it digs into your leg? Does this seem to be a rise issue? The Ocun doesn't give any of those issues for her but her older BD was uncomfortable for sure but I wouldn't say it bruised her. Good luck on the search. I know Ocun has been on a gym demo tour and were at several climbing festivals last summer 

bearded sam wrote:

Hi Rachel, do you know if the other harnesses that you have had this issue with have leg loops that get tight enough? Is there an issue with the alignment of the buckle in such a way that it digs into your leg? Does this seem to be a rise issue? The Ocun doesn't give any of those issues for her but her older BD was uncomfortable for sure but I wouldn't say it bruised her. Good luck on the search. I know Ocun has been on a gym demo tour and were at several climbing festivals last summer 

The leg loops on my petzl luna never had this issue (i could tighten them almost all the way down with very little webbing touching my leg but a good fit) so I was surprised when I found it on two harnesses in a row trying them on. I am starting to think it has to do with where the buckle and folded over/ sewn padding connects vs how much webbing is "exposed". The harnesses where the buckle sits further down on the leg seem to cause more pain than ones where it sits closer to the top of my thigh

Im really interested in Ocun. If I try on everything I have in mind and they don't work out I will probably just go for one without trying it on at this point. I'm really interested in the Petzl Hirundos at the moment, just need to find a store to try at

Update: tried on the petzl hirundos xs, no luck. The padding just doesn't seem thick enough for trad/ hanging for longer periods of time and the rise is just still slightly short. I ordered the ocun neon 3 lady because I am tired of trying to find something, will update if it is comfortable 

The update I never thought would come: I got the Ocun neon lady 3 in the mail today and it is actually comfortable! The rise fits perfect, actually taller as advertised and I was able to hang for 10 minutes without acute pain or pressure points. Im so relieved to have found a brand that fits my body and highly recommend to anyone in the same situation. Thank you everyone who gave recommendations, especially those who put Ocun on my radar, and I hope this thread helps someone with the same problem in the future!

Rachel Crowl wrote:

The update I never thought would come: I got the Ocun neon lady 3 in the mail today and it is actually comfortable! The rise fits perfect, actually taller as advertised and I was able to hang for 10 minutes without acute pain or pressure points. Im so relieved to have found a brand that fits my body and highly recommend to anyone in the same situation. Thank you everyone who gave recommendations, especially those who put Ocun on my radar, and I hope this thread helps someone with the same problem in the future!

Any idea how much more the rise is than stated? I’ve always had to wear men’s harnesses because the rise in every women’s one I’ve tried is too short. 

Climb On wrote:

Any idea how much more the rise is than stated? I’ve always had to wear men’s harnesses because the rise in every women’s one I’ve tried is too short. 

I can measure tonight if you want, I do wish it was something that was included in the specs. It is taller than the other women's harnesses that I have tried on. And I have probably tried on 5+ harnesses in the last couple months. Interesting that you have had to wear men's harnesses, I thought half the point of women's specific is the higher rise, waist belt shape and waist to leg ratio

Rachel Crowl wrote:

I can measure tonight if you want, I do wish it was something that was included in the specs. It is taller than the other women's harnesses that I have tried on. And I have probably tried on 5+ harnesses in the last couple months. Interesting that you have had to wear men's harnesses, I thought half the point of women's specific is the higher rise, waist belt shape and waist to leg ratio

Thanks! I’ve always found men’s to have the higher rise. I also have to wear men’s pants for the same reason. 

Climb On wrote:

Thanks! I’ve always found men’s to have the higher rise. I also have to wear men’s pants for the same reason. 

So without knowing the best way to measure, I did the belay loop itself and then from the top of the waist belt to where the buckle splits/ forms a V on the leg loop. The belay loop is about ~4" and the waist belt to leg loop is ~7.75"