Minimalist Softshells

I recently went looking for some layers that would be more durable on rock and had a difficult time finding much. 

What I was looking for: 

• Durable, abrasion resistant (enough to handle some granite wide/flare climbing), sleek with stretchy fabric.
• 1/4 zip pullover design and no hand pockets so it would stay tucked and be less bulky under a harness. More like a shirt than a jacket. 
• about as warm as a mid-weight capeliene - breathable and not too warm to climb in and leave on most or all of the day.   

I came up with 4 possibilities: Rab Borealis pullover(discontinued), OR Ferrosi Anorak (available), Patagonia Techface pullover(discontinued), and the Mountain Equipment Arrow Zip T (available)

edit to add items: Gamma Hybrid Hoody (available), BD BDV Hoody(discontinued)

I was unable to find the Rab in my size... think it's discontinued, but did manage to try out the remaining 3. 

The OR Ferrosi Anorak, while the fabric is nice, seems just poorly designed for climbing. Bulky with unneeded features and snap pockets right about where the harness sits. The hood was nice and it does pack into its front pocket and has a clip in point. I sent it back. 

The ME Arrow (still made, but not widely available in the U.S.) and Patagonia Techface pullover (discontinued but I found one on Patagonia's worn wear site) are both pretty similar, and pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Both feature a soft brushed lining that gives them a tiny bit of loft/warmth, and a softshell like outer face which is abrasion, wind, and water resistant. Both are low bulk, slim/athletic fitting, and with minimal features. I can fit a thin base layer underneath both, or wear them next to skin and be comfortable. The ME seems slightly more abrasion and wind resistant, but maybe a bit thinner than the Patagonia. Both can be packed into their chest pocket and clipped to a harness, but the ME wasn't designed for it while the Patagonia is. Neither have a hood, which I actually prefer... I'll clip on a Houdini or NanoPuff if a hood is called for at belays, and I don't like the way hoods flap around and get caught on the rock in chimneys while climbing.

Anyway, I thought I'd sum up my findings here in case anyone out there is looking for something similar. It amazes me, with all the companies making outdoor apparel, that there are such slim pickings for something like this. I'd also be interested in knowing if I missed any items that fit the criteria. 

Arc’teryx just dropped its new Gamma Hybrid Anorak that would seem to check these boxes. I’ve got one en route and will update when it arrives. Seems like a combo between the Gamma SL Anorak and the Sigma FL.

Brandon, if you want abrasion resistance, just grab your favorite brand on ebay, used. Soft shells have been around forever, and you can get whatever you want for $40. Use it, shred it, don't worry about it and get a new one every year. After 5 years you will finally dollar up to one dead-bird or patagucii and you will have a new jacket every season. Worth a thought unless you got money to burn, brother? ; - ) 

Shaniac wrote:

Brandon, if you want abrasion resistance, just grab your favorite brand on ebay, used. Soft shells have been around forever, and you can get whatever you want for $40. Use it, shred it, don't worry about it and get a new one every year. After 5 years you will finally dollar up to one dead-bird or patagucii and you will have a new jacket every season. Worth a thought unless you got money to burn, brother? ; - ) 

I definitely scoured ebay for sure, but still came up mostly short on something that checked all the boxes I wanted. When all was said and done, I ended up paying around $80 on each item I kept, so not too pricey considering I got exactly what I wanted. (new ME Arrow pullovers, and a like new used Patagonia techface pullover)

Elijah Benson wrote:

Arc’teryx just dropped its new Gamma Hybrid Anorak that would seem to check these boxes. I’ve got one en route and will update when it arrives. Seems like a combo between the Gamma SL Anorak and the Sigma FL.

Glad to hear there's some more options for those who want minimal features. Definitely give us a review once you get it! 

Gamma MX fits your bill but has pockets. The new Gamma Anorak is prob the win if they didn't change the material quality since the last gamma stuff. 

I’m not sure when they discontinued it, but the BD B.D.V hoody is exactly what you described. 

ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

i like the full zip ferrosi it’s almost perfect. 

Except with multiple pockets, zippers, and drawstrings, it's not exactly minimalist. The fabric is pretty nice though. 

So I picked up the Rab Borealis back in October/November for a trip to Patagonia in January. I've been very happy with it so far and kick myself for not getting something like this sooner. Kind of the perfect light weight jacket. Breaths well and adequately windproof. 

I just checked their website and they have the Borealis in all sizes right now, but you might be limited on color options for a given size (BTW they have a lot more color options listed now than when I bought mine so I'd be surprised if they are discontinuing that model if they are expanding color options). 

Bryan L wrote:

So I picked up the Rab Borealis back in October/November for a trip to Patagonia in January. I've been very happy with it so far and kick myself for not getting something like this sooner. Kind of the perfect light weight jacket. Breaths well and adequately windproof. 

I just checked their website and they have the Borealis in all sizes right now, but you might be limited on color options for a given size (BTW they have a lot more color options listed now than when I bought mine so I'd be surprised if they are discontinuing that model if they are expanding color options). 

Looks like the hood won’t go over a climbing helmet?

bearded sam wrote:

Looks like the hood won’t go over a climbing helmet?

It doesn't, but it does go under the helmet just fine.

Not sure if they’re still selling it, but skip the North Face Allproof Softshell (nf0a3snw) - it’s a very light softshell with sealed seams and pit zips and a helmet compatible hood, but mine has soaked through right away on every use within a few minutes.

If you can find the sigma sl I'm a big fan. 

Elijah Benson wrote:

Arc’teryx just dropped its new Gamma Hybrid Anorak that would seem to check these boxes. I’ve got one en route and will update when it arrives. Seems like a combo between the Gamma SL Anorak and the Sigma FL.

Wanted to follow up on this. Just spent the weekend bouldering in this on the sharpest granite that Texas has to offer. The jacket I breathable and hella sturdy. I don’t think it will offer much weather resistance, but it does a great job of cutting the wind.

Wanted to add to this: I just took it on a weeklong trip to Hueco and some climbing in New Mexico. I didn’t end up using this for a lot of the trip: the lack of a full zip makes it a pain to take on and off when conditions are variable. Was honestly considering trying to return it until we ended up snowshoeing in New Mexico. Suddenly this jacket was in its element. I ended up wearing just the Gamma Hybrid and a Delta LT hoodie. The main torso fabric did a great job of shedding snow and breaking reasonably strong winds. Meanwhile, the thinner fabric along the sides breathed wonderfully. I was comfy during all of our stopping and starting.

I don’t think this is a good jacket to bring as a windbreaker, but I think it’s excellent as a light mid layer that you don’t plan on needing to take off. Paired with a vest over the top I think it offers a lot of options.

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/alpine-start-hoody-mens/

I’ll second the ferossi full zip. Ive had it for about 3.5 years, chucked the kitchen sink at it and always been impressed. I wear it under my harness regularly and don’t notice the bulk from the lower pockets, whereas the chest pocket is super useful for the phone or mid climb snackys.

Hood fits over a climbing helmet easily and the draw cords are useful if I need to cinch it down. I like that it packs down into one of the hand pockets if I need to take it off mid climb and clip it to the harness. For me it’s done everything from ADK winter summits in 50mph winds, to Erock squeeze chimneys, Gunks trad in light rain, and spring skiing. As a softshell that’s the top layer of a system (base, R1, down puffy, softshell) I love it, but if you’re looking for something else that provides more warmth or significant water resistance and fills the ‘mid and outer layer’ vibe, look elsewhere.

Pros:

Fabric (for a 2019 version) seems very durable with no signs of wear or abrasion as of yet.

It’s cheap.

Pac-ability.

Hella wind resistant when used in the layer system.

Breathable - good enough.

Dry time is really fast.

Lifetime warranty.

Cons:

Newer fabric might not be as durable - I tried the newer Ferossi fabric (c2022) in their pants and the new fabric has worn quicker in high abrasion areas (leg loops, crotch, waist) than the pre-2022 fabric; most noteably with individual Loops and pills from the face. I’m unsure if this extends to the jackets. Fwiw my friend had a really old ferossi jacket that is hella pilled. 

Water resistance - it will do just acceptably well   under drizzle, but soaks through real quick in  rain.

It’s a long fit (~1.5in longer on me than I thought) if you have a small torso like me. I can JUST get away with a small but a XS would be perfect if OR made one.

Summary: Probably the best bang for your buck aside from a second hand one on the eBay’s. I’ve yet to find its limit.

Another option is the OR astroman! (Formerly the whirlwind, which is what I have). It’s more minimalist, 1/4 zip, and half the thickness between the Ferrosi and a sun shirt. I use them a lot in the summer when the Ferrosi is too warm (I run hot).  

I haven’t used any of the shells you listed other than the OR Ferrosi. Figured I’d add my two cents since I’m not sure if you tried it out before you sent it back. 

I have used the full zip Ferrosi jackets for almost 6 years now. I use them as my outer abrasion/ wind/ weather resistant layer all the time and highly recommend them. I run warm and find them almost perfect most of the time with a wool t-shirt underneath for rock/ alpine rock climbing. Throw a melly, R1, or synthetic jacket like the nano puff underneath depending on cold and it works as a great ice, mixed, ski mountaineering, mountaineering, and ski touring setup. They are extremely robust. I frequently use them jamming cracks in the creek, splatte, RMNP, etc and using them around sharp tools in winter time. After 5-6ish years I’m still rocking the originals that I bought.

For what it’s worth, I find the pockets pretty useful. You can stash gloves behind the main zipper, phone in the chest pocket when you can’t keep it in your thigh pocket climbing, etc. The one caveat with the hand picket zippers is to zip them up when you put your harness on so they aren’t behind the waist belt.

Not sure what harness you are using, but my gf uses the Ferrosi anorak and full zip and I use the full zip Ferrosi’s. We both use arc’teryx 395a harnesses (high waist belt) for rock and I use a trango horizon harness (low waist belt) for ice and we don’t find any issues with the zippers and our harnesses.

Also, I am located in Colorado so most weather the Ferrosi experienced is cold and dry (dry snow and light rain mostly). It will wet out in heavier rain/ wetter conditions. 

I will second the OR Astroman recommendation.  I have the OR Whirlwind, which is pretty much exactly what you seem to be looking for.  I don’t like how it feels directly against my skin, so I generally wear a t-shirt / base layer underneath.  If you want to use it in the rain or snow, you will probably want to apply DWR.

How does the Astroman fit?  I have a 38" chest, so am right at the top of a small, bottom of a medium.  

Thanks!!

Matt B wrote:

How does the Astroman fit?  I have a 38" chest, so am right at the top of a small, bottom of a medium.  

Thanks!!

I have a 42" chest, and find the medium has plenty of room. It's basically a tough sun shirt, so it's cut a little baggy. No water resistance whatsoever, and definitely less wind resistance than other pull-overs mentioned here. A good choice for breezy days in the sun.