Forearm Splints or Tennis Elbow or something else?
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I am experiencing sharp pain in the top side of my forearm when I let go of any hold, be it a jug, crimp, sloper, etc., and it only lasts for a few seconds. I read through this thread and the pain is pretty much the same as the OP described: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112443435/paintightness-in-forearm-tendonitis It's been about a week and a half, and the first 5 or so days hurt pretty bad, even when opening heavy doors or tying shoes tightly. After a couple of days of feeling better, I went up 7 pitches of relatively easy climbing while visiting Arizona and felt nothing. I then tried gym climbing again, and it didn't hurt nearly as bad, but I'm definitely not back to 100%, and I'm avoiding climbing in fear that I'll make it worse. Is it forearm splints or tennis elbow? I am confused about whether the pain experienced with tennis elbow is specific to the area surrounding the elbow, as I am experiencing pain closer to my wrist, kind of in the middle of the forearm. Or is it something else entirely? I'm certain this has occurred due to overuse, as it started after about 4 weeks of pretty constant climbing and setting/forerunning. This combined with a lack of rest days has to be the cause, right? Please help me!!!! Thanks, sam |
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Yes, you are correct, this is in fact tendonitis. Do you concur Dr? I SAID DO YOU CONCUR??? He concurs. He recommends easy climbing, rest, ice and stretching. |
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Mnt File wrote: Thanks, I did this exercise yesterday and it seemed to help quite a bit. I'm hoping this thing doesn't last a year for me. sam |
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I have started experiencing this same thing after using the campus board. I will also get it if I lock off for too long on a pull-up bar with my palms facing away. It’s possible for me to climb without feeing the pain but I have to be careful with my wrist positioning. |
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I can say for certain that tennis elbow does cause pain in the area you are describing. If you've noticed pain ONLY in that area though, I wouldn't be so sure it's tennis elbow. Try this: Hold your bad arm out in front of you, and put your elbow at about a 120 degree angle with your palm facing down. Keep your wrist straight. Now put the hand of your other arm on top of the hand of your bad arm to prevent you from flexing your wrist back. Now try pushing up against your good hand with your bad hand by flexing the wrist. Do you feel any pain towards the lateral side of your elbow? If so, you might have tennis elbow to some degree. Try the same thing, but with the bad arm straight instead of bent 120 degrees. This tests for a different variation of the injury (different tendon). Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, hah! Just someone with a lot of experience now with Tennis elbow. |