Most Classic Individual Pitch

I’ve seen a bunch of threads on the most classic route, crack, slab, 5.11, etc. 

I want to know, what is the most classic pitch you’ve climbed, and why? Is there a rope length that’s diverse, composed of quality stone, with interesting movement, improbable features, inspiring aesthetics, and good exposure? Are some of these characteristics more important than others to you? What is the most classic pitch in America?

I know this is subjective and impossible, but I like hearing people talk about their favorite lines

The last rope length on Dana 3rd pillar is hard to beat.  Rock is perfect, pro is good, setting is out of this world, finishes route at the very top of the formation.  Uber classic in every sense of the term.

Dreamin' at Smith Rock is probably the most classic pitch I've ever climbed. it's a obvious line from the moment you park at Smith, and the movement is excellent. It also wasn't overbolted, so it's still an honest-to-god climbing experience, not just another clip-up.

Though I haven't trad climbed much, and trad pitches tend to get "classic" status more than sport pitches do.

Second pitch of the Bachar Yerian is hard to beat.  Perfect knobs on vertical granite looking out at Tuolumne and Tenaya.

There was an overhanging green 11c at the gym last summer that was really fun. 

The third pitch of Hotline is the best hand crack pitch I’ve climbed. Exposed, perfect tight hands, dead vertical with a slight flare and softened edge, and it goes and goes.

This one route called silence I did a while back in this random cave in Europe. Kinda soft though

My mind went straight to the Diamond. Maybe the crux pitch of Ariana. Maybe the thin dual corners pitch right below the crux of the Casual. It’s hard to say the best but any movement up there feels about perfect.

Igor Unchained done as a single monster pitch is beyond classic.

The Bishop Fingercrack.

Walt Bailey Memorial 

Rosy Crucifiction.

Horns Mother, as a single pitch.

Apollo Reed

The top of High Exposure 

Pitch 2 of Heart of Darkness in Tonsai

The offwidth on Black Elk

The chillin size handcracks on both Astroman and Rostrum.

And finally the ”enduro corner” of The Stoned Oven.

There was this sick 5.13 crimp line at my gym that was sick….until they chopped it with all these big volumes.  

Cosmosis came to mind here.   Granite, slabby and technical, enough gear to be safe but still scary, ends on a hand crack, and an excellent perch up on bell buttress with the sound of the creek rushing by.  

Not to mention I took a 15 foot whip and had to walk away with my tail tucked between my legs before coming back for the send!

Have you ever been to a diner party and someone complained about the lack of notes in a $50 bottle of wine because it wasn’t a rothchild? That’s what I feel like these threads devolve into. 

The most classic climb is the one you are psyched on.

Excalibur at Beacon Rock in The Columbia River Gorge outside Portland. 

Impeccable stone, graceful movement. thoughtful placements, amazing exposure above a sweeping river. 

And yet, this thing probably only sees one or two ascents a year despite being within an hour of a major city.

(The most classic climb is the one you are psyched on...agreed)

I always enjoyed  the rotten log on Royal Arches . It got more & more flexible as time went by.

Crack of doom at city of rock

Grants crack YNP

Pine Line ynp

Whatever has the big huecos at the red

On a more modest level than most so far mention here, I suggest the top pitch of Recompense at Cathedral Ledge, N.H., 5.9. Starts with a powerful, leaning wide layback leading into sustained and excellent stemming and jamming up a prominent dihedral in a very exposed position near the edge of the most prominent feature on the 400’ cliff. Historic climb as well.

Alan Rubin wrote:

On a more modest level than most so far mention here, I suggest the top pitch of Recompense at Cathedral Ledge, N.H., 5.9. Starts with a powerful, leaning wide layback leading into sustained and excellent stemming and jamming up a prominent dihedral in a very exposed position near the edge of the most prominent feature on the 400’ cliff. Historic climb as well.

I have to say that this pitch occurred to me as well - despite my recollection of it being way less detailed than yours. It just felt very satisfying.

Most Classic? Anything I can climb us generally not considered "classic", at least not single pitches, and I've not been to the Gunks (home of the only readily recognized 5.6  capitol C Classic in the country, lol!)

Most memorable? 

That's actually far more fun, since it's not what everyone else even thinks about as a great climb, a lot of the time. For myself, the people involved is often a big part. Firsts  figure in. But also? Surprises. 

That said, here's a few.

Hidden Falls, my first ice climb, with a super special guy who became the best partner for another friend of mine. It also was an epic to prepare for, even MP crowd sourced getting me outfitted and equipped! A whole thread to learn about hard shell, soft shell, layering. The east coast rounded up ice climbing boots, the next state over had a belay parka. The local FA guy who's climbed Borah more than anyone else loaned me his crampons....

Stems n Jammies at the Black Cliffs locally, my absolute first pitch, and in sneakers. Later, where an out of town MPer and I met up....and became besties for life, after he peeled off near the top, and ended up near the ground. I later introduced him to my ice guy, who became his best partner ever.....until his death only a couple years after.

Super slab at Smith rock, my first multipitch with the Stems n Jammies guy just mentioned. The climb itself wasn't super memorable, but the events that played out were very much so. I dropped his phone on the first pitch, waited in misery on the ledge for the people behind to bring it up to us (it was a weekend, and a zoo). So, I have zero memory of pitch one. Phone survived.....then there was the terrifying (for me) largely unprotected traverse for the second pitch...a hefty pendulum swing if I came off. Coached through that, and the rest of the climb and rappel by a great lady who was leading, right behind me. 

Then there's all the fun obscurities that were eyebrow raisers, like Suncup slab, or the Tree route at City. Both very easy, both with close to none, or no pro at all. Tree route, as last of 3 tied in to my 70m rope, I cleaned. All 3 pieces for the 210 feet to the top, a single pitch for me. Except the single cam top anchor on top. Myself and climber 2 kept clipped in to that while sitting at the top, while we waited for climber 1 to show up again. It was blowing so hard it was misery.

Lots and lots of stories like this, of climbing and climbers. Some climbing trips? Not a single pitch climbed, but memorable nonetheless!

Best, Helen

P2 of Triassic Sands at Red Rocks: boulder problem crux at the beginning followed by a 5.9 splitter 2s and 3s handcrack, with edges for feet on the outside, that goes on forever.

Sasquatch at LCC was very memorable for me too 

Camdon Kay wrote:

I’ve seen a bunch of threads on the most classic route, crack, slab, 5.11, etc. 

I want to know, what is the most classic pitch you’ve climbed, and why? Is there a rope length that’s diverse, composed of quality stone, with interesting movement, improbable features, inspiring aesthetics, and good exposure? Are some of these characteristics more important than others to you? What is the most classic pitch in America?

I know this is subjective and impossible, but I like hearing people talk about their favorite lines

Buf! In Mallorca and near to you Camdon is dust devil in the choss pile Teddy, I've been to a few places but that climb is still one of my favorite to date. 

Old lady H wrote:

Then there's all the fun obscurities that were eyebrow raisers, like […] the Tree route at City […] with close to none, or no pro at all. Tree route, as last of 3 tied in to my 70m rope, I cleaned. All 3 pieces for the 210 feet to the top, a single pitch for me. Except the single cam top anchor on top.

Heavens, Helen, this line stitches up with a standard rack; you just had a cavalier leader! 

Jordan Wilson wrote:

Buf! In Mallorca and near to you Camdon is dust devil in the choss pile Teddy, I've been to a few places but that climb is still one of my favorite to date. 

My partner and I almost met our demise at Teddy due to choss haha, haven’t checked that one out yet!