Climbing shoe recommendations for flat feet/ weak arches?
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I’ve been climbing for about 7 years, the last 2 years I have been very consistent climbing 3-5 days a week with a mix of trad and indoor. I am STUMPED on what climbing shoes to get next. All of them hurt the outside of my feet, which I am attributing to weak foot muscles/arches. The best I have tried are the La Sportiva Miura VS women’s. I’ve had a few pairs, I don’t find them comfortable enough for all day trad use. I’ve tried on a variety of brands from Sportiva to Scarpa, Unparallell, Five Ten and I can’t figure it out. They don’t bother me in the store but once I’m climbing my feet kill. A close runner up in comfort was the Five Ten Anasazi VCS which has been discontinued. I was thinking the LS Katana lace women’s for my next shoe, but keep hearing that La Sportiva runs narrow and I’m not sure if that would be good for the foot pain I’m experiencing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Shoes I own: LS Miura VS - the best LS TC Pro - the worst for hurting the outside of my feet. LS Finale 5.10 Anasazi VCS Scarpa Vapor LS Otaki - very bad fit for me overall |
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The BD momentum is probably the stiffest shoe I have ever worn. Bit fiddly fit though, so my fingers are crossed for you. Could go the other way and get a soft shoes and build strength in them slowly, akin to how runners would with a minimalist shoe |
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I have a super low volume foot with low arches and Morton’s toe. The Black Diamond Aspect fit me really well. The shoes are stiff yet pretty sensitive, my only complaint is the rubber isn’t that great, but useable. |
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I would say the momentum is even stiffer than the aspect. Sidenote: what are you talking about in regard to the rubber? Sure, they don’t smear for shit, but that isn’t what they are for… |
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Go to someplace like the Good Feet store. Take your rock climbing shoes with you. Bring a couple of different fitting pairs but especially a pair that are a bit bigger than your performance shoes. Ask them to work with you to try and fit a pair of Relaxers to your shoes.
When you find the right fit, you'll have more support for edging than you ever had. Felt like my feet were resurrected, with far, far less heel pain, less neuroma pain, etc Turned my gumby shoes into straight up edging miracles. You could maybe do this with a traditional orthotist but they don't often have an off-the-shelf selection that actually works for this process. |
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It is almost impossible to give any meaningful suggestions without seeing the shape of your foot. It definitely looks that LaSportiva shoe lasts don't fit you well. Generally, Evolv is considered one of the climbing shoe brands that offer options for wider feet. Even though more asymmetric shoes are associated with more foot discomfort, depending on your foot shape they might be more tolerable that "moderate" or "beginner" shoes since their toe box is more targeted to fit anatomical shape of the foot. |
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Acopa. I have wider flat feet and Acopa fits me way better than La Sportiva. The Aztec specifically is a very comfortable shoe for me and fairly high performing. Their RS II rubber is my favorite I have used so far as well. |
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Have you been examined by a podiatrist? |
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Your usual podiatrist diagnosis of weak arches etc don't apply with climbing shoes. Climbing shoes function by limiting normal biomechanics of your foot. It sounds like you simply have a wide foot and the climbing shoe is compressing your foot you need a shoes that is wide and stays wide. Sadly, you just have to try on a lot of shoes, la sportiva miura vs are fairly wide but wider still are certain shoes from evolv and butora. 5.10 tend to lack much in the way of structure so you may find them to fairly comfortable especially with something like a moc that will stretch out to fit your feet. Best of luck to you. |
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Unparallel sells their Version of the Anasazi VCS they call it the UpRise VCS.. Not sure if it’s width you need.. As Ross said the Acopa are great for wider feet. I really like the Butora wides- the Mantra is a rare board lasted shoe, think 80’s Stiffness, way too much shoe by modern standards but functional for protecting foot issues.. the Altura is a sort of Wide TC Pro.. and my Trad Shoe of Choice.. If the Anasazi VCS Fits- you might also like the UpMoc (like a Mocasym) or the UpLace (like Anasazi pinks) as well as the Up VCS.. I like them 1/2 size above street for comfort.. street for performance.. |