Ouray Ice Park: A Lament for What Was (and general observations on changing attitudes)

This weekend I went to the Ouray Ice Park. It was the first time I'd been there since the eary 2000s, maybe around 2003 or 2004. I couldn't believe how much it changed. This is coming from someone who first climbed in Ouray in 1994, so even by 2003 it had changed some, but this weekend was something I never could have imagined. By the end of the weekend, I'd come to the conclusion that the Ouray Ice Park is a glorified climbing gym. 

The crowds were insane. At every area of the park, you'd see ropes 10-15 feet apart, with people queueing up for lines. It wasn't uncommon to see people climbing under another climber, or within feet of other climbers. Someone knocks off ice? Who cares, seemed to be the attitude. Many of the climbers weren't even shouting a courtesy "Ice!" when they knocked stuff off. 

Both parking lots were full by 8:30, and people were parking up 550. At one point while standing on the bridge and debating with myself whether it was worth the bother of queueing, I counted over 25 climbers coming into the park within 10 minutes at a time when most lines were already occupied. 

I was also surprised to see how casual people were about ice. On Saturday, I was at the upper bridge after we'd come back from South Park and was watching someone struggle mightily on a WI4. The climber's feet were nonexistent, and the tool placements could best be described as sketchy. I mean, it's TR, so that's a time to push yourself, but someone next to me who I'd been chatting with startled me. I observed that the climber was struggling, and she told me it was his first day on ice. All I could think was, "Wow, attitudes have really changed." 

What I used to love about ice was that there were no crowds. I could climb at Vail on a weekend and maybe see 1-3 other parties during the entire day. After this weekend, it seems that ice is now like skiing. Too many people on too few resources on a weekend, and the best time to do it is midweek. 

This is Colorado though, and like I said, Ouray Ice Park is a climbing gym. I'm sure if I'd had a partner who could have followed I'd have been able to get away from crowds by going to Dexter Creek or up Camp Bird, but I have noticed increased crowds at places like Vail. But I can remember climbing at Ouray IcePark before it was the Ice Park, and how it was a nice respite from the avy danger on much of the surrounding climbs in the area, or the ones like Gravity's Rainbow that can melt out while you are them. With some of the casualness I saw in the Ice Park though, I wonder what it might be like if even 15-20% of those people start climbing classic multipitch routes. I also wonder if those crowds are seen at other places. I started climbing ice in New Hampshire, and also did a few routes in the 'Dacks. Back then crowds for ice weren't really a thing. I haven't been back there since 1993, but are the crowds there bad too?

The crowds for NH ice are crazy this year, because it keeps getting reset.

How did ice climbing become so noobified?

Seems too spicy for the muggles yet they flock to it.

C H wrote:

This weekend I went to the Ouray Ice Park. 

Therein lies the real issue.

You went to an ice climbing park and now are shaking your fists in the air. What gives?

I went to the gym and it felt like a gym. Annoying. 

Klaus theK wrote:

I went to the gym and it felt like a gym. Annoying. 

I didn't realize that's what it had become.  The last time I was there,  many routes were being led and more than half were open at any time

C H wrote:

I didn't realize that's what it had become.  The last time I was there,  many routes were being led and more than half were open at any time

Gee, almost 20 years ago when you were there?

20 years ago, I was a mere 46 years old, knew nothing whatever about climbing of any sort, and was still more than 15 years away from my first shot at ice climbing.

Now I'm using heel hooks to haul my sorry ass out of bed some days.

Did you not notice a wee bit of growth in this sport? Or the bajillion and a half people that moved to the western states? Or have you been doing other life stuff for a couple decades? Yeah, that happens. 

And....a popular place is....popular...on a weekend?

And, isn't the whole point of Ouray Ice Park the ICE PARK part?? It IS a gym. With ice! Yay!!

I'm laughing, yes, but I'm also sympathetic. I'm 66, and geez, shit does tend to just sneak up when your back is turned. For me though, it's been neighbor kids showing up to trick or treat at Halloween....

All grown up and bringing their little ones to the old lady's house to say howdy.

Holy crap I'm old.

Best, Helen

If you build it they will come. 

what did you think would happen if you build and ice park and  then promote it  with ice festivals...   FWIW I very rarely yell ice. if I am climbing ice and you choose to climb or stand under me ice will be falling. I do not have to waste my breath explaining that.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

what did you think would happen if you build and ice park and  then promote it  with ice festivals...   FWIW I very rarely yell ice. if I am climbing ice and you choose to climb or stand under me ice will be falling. I do not have to waste my breath explaining that.

Interesting. I have a different outlook. I want to take care of my belayers too

C H wrote:

Interesting. I have a student outlook. I want to take care of my belayers too

Then tell your belayer not to stand under you while top roping ice or to be vigilant? I mean it could be a courtesy but also what do you expect...

I'll hit the 50-year mark some time this summer. The scope of change in that time sure has been something to experience! My counsel, to the extent possible, do not bemoan the lost past, we can never go back. Look to your own future and stomp out your own boot paths, also to the extent possible. If I had to summon it up in two words it would be - 

just go

A good headlamp solves all. 

I went to smugglers notch in Vermont yesterday, I very rarely climb on the weekends so it surprised me how crazy it was. I’ve been climbing ice for 12 years and it’s a completely different experience now than when I started. It’s easy to get pissed off at everyone climbing on “my ice” but I think we all need to remember that nobody has any more right to climb something than anyone else. It doesn’t matter if it’s ice or rock, if it’s a road cut ice line or El Cap, if you’re Tommy Caldwell or on your first time out. If you’re there then you’re part of the problem and nobody is stopping you from going home. 

Candace. Park your belayer in a safe spot. 

I do think that more ice parks opening up will solve some of this issue.

I mean on every MP forum asking the best place to get good at ice climbing, Ouray is the top choice. Lake City and some others popping up in the mid-west might spread out these people.

However, that’s not to say ice climbing isn’t a hugely popular sport now. I would say the Genesis loop of Hyalite is just as packed as Ouray on the weekends.

I've been climbing ice since the early 80's.  Been going to Ouray since before it was an ice park.  When I started ice climbing, nobody did it.  You seldom ran into another ice climber, and if you did, you probably knew him.  (I say "him" because throughout the 80's, I never saw a single woman ice climbing.  The first woman I ever saw ice climbing was in the Alps in the mid 1990s.)  Ice screws sucked.  You needed two hands and one of your tools (or a ratchet) to place them.  Every time I led anything 3+, I felt like I'd done something significant.  

Ice tools were straight shafted and leashed.  Knuckles got bruised.  

I'm glad for the experience, but I'm also glad for all of the progress that has occurred in gear and technique.  If the gear had not improved, ice climbing would still be a fringe activity.  So, more crowds are the price we pay for safer and more efficient gear.  

Was in Ouray a few weeks ago.

We don't bother going there on the weekends.  As the OP pointed out, Ouray on the weekends is a zoo.  We generally show up in Ouray Sunday night; climb Monday through Wednesday, then drive home.  We don't wait in lines.  We don't lack for climbs to do.  We climb pretty much all we want to, without bumping into other folks.  This year, we were there right before the Ice Fest, and it still was not crowded.  

My advice to the OP:

Don't go on the weekend.

Don't expect the people around you to be competent.

Don't position your belayer in the path of falling ice.  

If you're in Ouray and want solitude, climb outside the Park.  (I've been completely alone on Bridal Veil Falls, Bird Brain Blvd, and The Ribbon, even on a weekend.)  

Climb somewhere else with more difficult access.  There's plenty of ice in other spots that is less crowded.  It just takes longer to get there.  Climb some backcountry ice in RMNP.  Anything with an approach of an hour or more is unlikely to be crowded.  

Seems nobody reads Freedom of the Hills anymore.  So much for the Brotherhood of the Rope.  Peoplehood of the Rope?  I wlwonder how many of the hoardes are members or contribute to the park (which closes overnight, as it were).  

"Feck you, belayer.  And dont be feckin jerkin me. Of course l stuck your rope, it was in my line.  And why is your rope under my crampons?  I'm standin here!"

At least there arent dogs in the bottom of the canyon, eh!  Or shit, for that matter.  Maybe a baby or two, tho...       If you go to the circus, expect a buncha clowns

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Candace. Park your belayer in a safe spot. 

I always do. But I'm from an older generation where you give a heads up,  whether it's ice you are knocking off,  a rock you've pulled loose,  or even a nut or can that you've dropped.  It's simple courtesy, something that seems lacking in our Instagram age

I last climbed Ouray in 2007. Even then it was obvious the direction things were going. Sounds like things are going great for the town of Ouray, I hope other outdoor communities can enjoy the same economic success. Maybe next time you should think about what experience you want to have not go to a place where it is going to be crowded. 

Newsflash: the year is 2023 and you can still climb without crowds if you really want to.