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What is the heaviest hang anyone has done on a 20mm edge?
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At the elite level you see a lot more one arms or smaller edges used for various reasons but I'm curious what the heaviest two arm hang that's been done is. |
Jon Reinhold wrote: So, a dude hung on a 3/4" edge with 350 pounds on his waist? Am I understanding this? Or is it more like a 150 pound guy with 200 pounds on his waist, for 350 pounds total? |
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Looking at total weight. So for an example with footage Magnus added 82kg at bodyweight 68kg for a total of 150kg or 330lbs. |
Russ Walling wrote: so... is Russ the world record holder yet? go for 40 lbs. just to make sure no one can beat you! |
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is there a particular 20mm edge you are referencing? there can be a lot of difference between 20mm edges. |
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There's little enough information out there I didn't want to muddy the waters further with specifying a specific board. I did find Emil Abrahamsson beat Magnus by 5lbs to be the current champ at 335. |
slim wrote: It will be specifically the lattice rung(very difficult 20mm) and it will be for 7 seconds if I remember correctly its 5s for one armed hang 7s for two arms. |
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I’m putting my money on Yves Gravelle. He did 116kg + BW (66) on 18mm for 5 sec, so an even 400lbs https://www.instagram.com/p/CN8mH1TjMQH/ He’s literally known for having the strongest fingers at his body weight. |
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I just did 441lbs total weight on 20mm for 5 seconds. Is this the current record? https://www.instagram.com/p/CwDgHV0r0FK/ |
Brandon Wood wrote: That's a wildly impressive level of finger strength. What's your climbing level? It's always interesting so see how and whether such outlier levels of finger strength apply in to on-the-rock performance. |
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I tried 400lbs ( Not counting 180lbs BW ) but only did it for like 6 seconds if that counts. |
Jonathan Simos wrote: That's on a bar, so not relevant to this question which regards a 20 mm edge. Still an impressive feat of strength... Just a different one than the topic at hand. |
Brandon Wood wrote: Just adding on here, my previous record was just over 420 (2 years ago), and I will be going for a 450 in the coming months. I think its fairly safe to say the world record is not much higher, maybe something around 480 total. I don't think these hangboards can really support too much more weight than that anyways. I've just started to get back into training my crimps again these past few weeks, and just today did 215 on each hand and that was not even my max. While its crazy to think about these massive numbers, its really all about body weight %. Most heavy climbers are actually quite a lot weaker than lighter climbers once you compare the relative bodyweight percent. |
Alex Stump wrote: 100%. It seems like missing the forest for the trees to ignore percentage of body weight. Both in terms of being impressed by an athletic feat as well as how that feat+metric relates to climbing performance. |
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I'd be curious to see a sorta 3-column/category document that grouped people by: -Bodyweight % added on a 2-hand 20mm hang -Bodyweight % hang one handed on a 20mm hang -Bouldering and/or sport climbing grade of the route you are ~50% on doing in a session I wonder where the diminishing returns on the strength gains start to kick in. |
blakeherrington wrote: There's not a ton of research on this yet, but from what I've seen high-level boulderers can all produce >70% bodyweight per arm on a small edge (with a so-called overcoming isometric, i.e. squeezing rather than hanging or lifting). Above that level, I think rate of force production and capacity start to become more important. (Absolute strength is rarely a goal in sports outside of powerlifting, it's just a stepping stone towards the power or capacity adaptations that actually do matter.) |
