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Help Finding an Aggressive Shoe

Original Post
maddie pearce · · Los Angeles · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

I'm currently trying to find a stiffer shoe that works for me, but have extremely narrow feet and a heel spur type issue that I'm trying to prevent from flaring up again (Haglund's). I've tried the Miura laces and love them, but even the Miura Vs are too wide for me. Currently climbing in UpMoccs, but obviously this is on the soft side. Scarpa is also too wide (tried the Instincts already), and the Katanas and Solutions don't work either with my heel. I've tried what feels like a million different shoes/sizes and it seems only the Skwamas and Miura laces don't aggravate my injury. Although I get they're completely different shoes and both relatively soft, I'm curious if anyone has experience with the Skwamas and just how stiff they are. Also, if anyone has any recommendations outside of the Scarpa and La Sportiva lines for shoes that might work, I'd love to hear it!

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

See if you can get your feet into 'Evolv Geshido/Women/Laces'
https://www.evolvsports.com/en-us/geshido-lace-womens-66-0000062117?c=1517928 

Edit - I find heel cup more comfortable than anything LaSportiva, my big toe is less aggravated than in Katanas. These are also offered with Velcro, but I find that laces are a bit stiffer. 

Damis Yancopoulos · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 5

Scarpa drago lv (low volume) is a narrower fit.

I know you mentioned you tried the instinct, was it the womens? Ive found the wmns instinct vs to be a good shoe for narrow feet
but those are softer options.


if you’re in need of stiff, check out the boostic! All time favorite shoe

Lothian Buss · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

if you loved the miura laces, see if you can find a pair of the miura XX edition - they stiffened them up a little for a special release about 5 years back. They're black so they're real hot in the sun.

https://www.gearexpress.com/la-sportiva-miura-xx-climbing-shoe.html 

Ezra Henderson · · New York City · Joined May 2022 · Points: 3

I remember that the blue (Low Volume) butora acros were pretty narrow, fairly stiff, and had a very large heel. The sizing on them is also odd. I wear a 8.5 men’s for street shoe, and I wear a 9.5 men’s for a tight fit. I didn’t like the fit on my heel though, as the heel on those are really big.

Caleb Mattson · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 60

Tenaya is pretty narrow.  Scarpa usually fits me perfectly and I can hardly get my feet into some similarly sized Tenayas.  I think the Ras are pretty stiff but I've never worn them.  The Tarifas I've heard are also really good

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,339

Five ten/unparallel have the narrowest aggressive shoes on the market. I'd consider the UP Newtro lace (I believe it's a remake of the old quantum, which was basically a stiff lace-up version of the 5.10 teams). I'm surprised you find the Skwamas fit you well - they're wide enough for my feet but maybe it's the flatter/less acute toe profile giving my pinky toe space.  If they fit well but aren't stiff enough, they fit about the same as the Kataki/Otaki, a much stiffer shoe.

'John Rose · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 10

Evolv Phantoms

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 194
maddie pearce wrote:

I'm currently trying to find a stiffer shoe that works for me, but have extremely narrow feet and a heel spur type issue that I'm trying to prevent from flaring up again (Haglund's). I've tried the Miura laces and love them, but even the Miura Vs are too wide for me. Currently climbing in UpMoccs, but obviously this is on the soft side. Scarpa is also too wide (tried the Instincts already), and the Katanas and Solutions don't work either with my heel. I've tried what feels like a million different shoes/sizes and it seems only the Skwamas and Miura laces don't aggravate my injury. Although I get they're completely different shoes and both relatively soft, I'm curious if anyone has experience with the Skwamas and just how stiff they are. Also, if anyone has any recommendations outside of the Scarpa and La Sportiva lines for shoes that might work, I'd love to hear it!

Having used both, I can tell you the Muira Lace is FAR stiffer, and narrower, than the Skwama. Stick with them if they fit you. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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