Training for Astro Dog

Anybody who’s been on it have any suggestions? Kinda hard to tell what the crux entails…. Thin crack with some layback moves and stemming? Love some Route suggestions in the front range to prep… Thanks!!

I’ve been on it twice, most recently last May. Crux is a steep flaring corner, and the secret is actually to use some chimney technique (at least that’s how I flashed it). Rp’s sew it up along with some clutch small to .75 cams at what I thought was the crux.

I’m not sure about front range recommendations,  any 11+ chimneys or steep stem corners would be helpful. Are there any hard chimneys in the South Platte?

Where I live on the western slope there’s a route called Bachelor Party next to Velvet Hammer on the Massey/Quarry Wall in Unaweep, both are pretty good trainers and you could link with Frozen Will and however many other routes you could do to create an 1800’ day (linking every route on the Massey Wall on a mini track  would be excellent training)

In the Black, I would recommend building up to AD by doing Ripe Stuff and Rosy Arete (hard variations of Tourist Route), both of which have stem cruxes, working your way up to Dark Star, which also has a stemmy crux, to build up the endurance you’ll need for The Dog. A linkup of Comic 2.0 + Midsummer is how I originally trained for the full route.

another consideration is that the bottom half of the route is actually in full sun until about 12pm, so be ready to deal with that. I think some folks mistakenly assume it’s shady since it’s on the south rim. 

Hell yeah dude, super helpful. Thank you!

Skyeler Congdon wrote:

I’m not sure about front range recommendations,  any 11+ chimneys or steep stem corners would be helpful. Are there any hard chimneys in the South Platte?

Psycho Killer at Asshole Rock maybe?

Honestly OP the whole Derriere Link-up that Haas details in his guidebook might be a good training day.

psycho killer isn't very steep though, and is more of a tight flare (iirc).  it's also a lot easier.  i would think the typical eldo stemming routes would be a bit more applicable (2nd pitch of grand course, first pitch of aerial book, climb of the century, etc, but these are all easier).  good question...

slim wrote:

psycho killer isn't very steep though, and is more of a tight flare (iirc).  it's also a lot easier.  i would think the typical eldo stemming routes would be a bit more applicable (2nd pitch of grand course, first pitch of aerial book, climb of the century, etc, but these are all easier).  good question...

I've never climbed Astro Dog - I just know Psycho is 11c - definitely not crazy steep. There's some pictures here under Asshole Rock OP so you can see if it fits the bill. Otherwise the only other place I can think of in the platte is somewhere around Top of the World maybe? Trial By Fire, Aerie, etc. They don't really fit the bill either though. Do any of the routes on the Taj? Air to the Thrown maybe? Never done that one either, also is only 11-. There might be some in this area OP but you'd be doing FAs to get them Alliteration Area

Maybe 2nd pitch of Shock Treatment. Slim is likely accurate the the best place to train in the front range would be Eldo though.

ooh, good call on shock treatment.  

devils head also has a few good stemming corners or routes with sections of techy stemming.  v-slaught and rampart rage (the headstone), wishbone dihedral and first pitch of those who crank... (at chickenhead ranch), and the upper part of holy crap at (wipeyur buttress) have good stemming, although they are all sport routes.

i don't really remember any routes on taj majal having much stemming.

vedauwoo has a few stemmy routes with small gear also.

Eldo was my first thought. Based on Skyelers previous post though, I’m looking into some flaring, offwidthy corners as well…Thanks for all the posts so far?

LawHous wrote:

Anybody who’s been on it have any suggestions? 

I sent you a message :-) Be sure not to miss the outstanding three-pitch direct start.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105750829/interstellar-overdrive 

This one is in season -- Short but strenuous corner and the new guide has it at 11D.  You can even skip the bolts and protect it with RP's & cams. If the first comment doesn't say off width in a corner, I'm not sure what does. 

P2 of Roofus at Turkey Rocks fits the bill for a laybacky stemmy thing

for the flaring offwidthy corner i would highly recommend Whiskey Crack at Whiskey Rock... requires a whole bunch of weird techniques including stemming, chimneying, and wide funkness.

I’ve done Astrodog once. I followed the crux pitch.

From what I remember, the crux pitch is very steep dihedral, thin, with very little good feet (if none) and small gear in the hardest section. Been a few years though, so my recollection may be a little hazy.

I also highly recommend doing the direct start, as mentioned by Fritz. Please don’t do “Astropup” or whatever the kids are calling it, you’ll be depriving yourself of the full experience and some wonderful climbing. That crack at the bottom is REAL nice, joyous, and long.

Also, as mentioned, the route does get quite a bit of sun in the morning during the appropriate times to climb it. We did it in May and it was a very unpleasant experience until the sun is gone.

P.S. the rappels are not fun.

Hope that helps!

Grey C3 was perfect for the crux

Most important thing is to move fast and have the stamina for the long day. Very long pitches, be comfortable with spacey gear (standard for the black). Mostly cruiser except the crux pitch, which I thought was quite hard for the grade. Very tricky stemming /odd non standard chimney climbingwith no feet

Definitely don't miss the amazing splitter beginning others have mentioned.

Pro tip: stash water on the way down! Try not to get off route while rapping. Lots of info on this on the route page 

This route has been on my mind ever since I set eyes on the front cover of Climb!  Keep us posted on how it goes for you.

Gruff wrote:

Tracy's a badass!

The Splitter start variation is MANDATORY. It is beyond classic. You will feel like a cheater if you don't do it. I would get ready for a thin offset crack if you want to onsight. The crux dihedral is just that. It's opposition climbing. Sick route.