Mountain Project Logo

Bolt removal tool and Sika glue questions

Original Post
Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

Hi folks, 

I working on a couple routes at a dry tooling crag near where I live here in Switzerland.  The crag is compact limstone with some deteriorating sections.  It has drilled pocked for ice tools and crampons points, hanging wood logs to swing into, lots of natural features, some features that have been reinforced for safety ,with glue and of course lots of bolts.  In short, it's a mess, but in a good way, at least if you like bolted dry tooling. 

Two questions:

1-I watched some videos about bolt removal.  Is there an easy source where I can buy a bolt puller and/or a bolt spinner tool?  I may have to make my own or modify existing tools for our Euro metric hardware.  Attached is a .pdf with information about the bolt in question, or the general style of the bolts in use at the crag.  I can easily order from the US is need be (US post box).

2-There's a feature that I am concerned about on a line I climb often. It's a rather large semi-detached flakey thing, and, one day, sooner or later, it's going to come down.  It's nice to have for the climb, but not absolutely necessary.  I guess my options are to pry it off, or reinforce it with glue.  On a nearby route, a couple of similar features have been reinforced by filling the voice between the feature and the rock with glue (I assume it is Sika but I'm not sure).  If I were to go down the gluing route...where can I find glue?   I found the link to Sika anchorfix below; would that be sufficient?  Finally, do you apply this with a caulking gun, or some other tool? 

https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/de/fixe-climbing-gear-sika-anchorfix-3001-epoxidharz/138758306/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=15783037&country=ch&gclid=CjwKCAiArNOeBhAHEiwAze_nKNYmmNrZG3DSPqA2r3ir-gzynrdLwKE5qhw_POgymZJqNaAl-WAkDRoC09IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I am a beginner to this route development game but we all start somewhere.  Open to ideas and advice.  

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72
Bruno Schull wrote:

Hi folks, 

I working on a couple routes at a dry tooling crag near where I live here in Switzerland.  The crag is compact limstone with some deteriorating sections.  It has drilled pocked for ice tools and crampons points, hanging wood logs to swing into, lots of natural features, some features that have been reinforced for safety ,with glue and of course lots of bolts.  In short, it's a mess, but in a good way, at least if you like bolted dry tooling. 

Two questions:

1-I watched some videos about bolt removal.  Is there an easy source where I can buy a bolt puller and/or a bolt spinner tool?  I may have to make my own or modify existing tools for our Euro metric hardware.  Attached is a .pdf with information about the bolt in question, or the general style of the bolts in use at the crag.  I can easily order from the US is need be (US post box).

2-There's a feature that I am concerned about on a line I climb often. It's a rather large semi-detached flakey thing, and, one day, sooner or later, it's going to come down.  It's nice to have for the climb, but not absolutely necessary.  I guess my options are to pry it off, or reinforce it with glue.  On a nearby route, a couple of similar features have been reinforced by filling the voice between the feature and the rock with glue (I assume it is Sika but I'm not sure).  If I were to go down the gluing route...where can I find glue?   I found the link to Sika anchorfix below; would that be sufficient?  Finally, do you apply this with a caulking gun, or some other tool? 

https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/de/fixe-climbing-gear-sika-anchorfix-3001-epoxidharz/138758306/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=15783037&country=ch&gclid=CjwKCAiArNOeBhAHEiwAze_nKNYmmNrZG3DSPqA2r3ir-gzynrdLwKE5qhw_POgymZJqNaAl-WAkDRoC09IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I am a beginner to this route development game but we all start somewhere.  Open to ideas and advice.  

If you're going to use Sika Anchor fix, make sure its the anchor fix 2, not 1. 3001 is overkill IMO.
Do make sure the surfaces of the rock are as clean as possible it can help w/ bonding if this is the route you decide to try although texture alone may offer enough.

Also consider some all thread, long bit, Sika AF2 to secure the all thread, then washer and nut once that's set.

Peter Thomas · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 269

For pullers check out Greggerman's Doodad. I imagine you can have the ball screw machined to either M12 or M14 instead of the US standard of 1/2"x20. Most parts will be accessible in most countries. 

You can also check out the YABR https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116158404/yet-another-bolt-remover?page=13 (many have gone to Europe and a couple to Switzerland). 

The SDS spinner can be purchased from Aliexpress or other online sellers. I've never looked for metric sizes, but likely available. 

Christopher Payan · · EL PASO, TX · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 141

if you really want to reinforce the flake, and it is acceptable practice where you are at. The proper way to do it, is to 'pin' it.  Get some stainless steel threaded rod, drill your hole, apply adhesive (your choice) and hammer the threaded rod in.  If you do it right, the head of the threaded rod should be just below the surface so you can cover it and its virtually invisible.  This is done on buildings all over the country (I specify these types of anchors as an Architect in NYC). 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
Post a Reply to "Bolt removal tool and Sika glue questions"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.