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Best durable all around outdoor shoes?

Original Post
Cam - · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 175

I’m looking for a pair of shoes that I can us to warm up with in a gym, and use on my outdoor climbing trips. I’m used to climbing indoors, though as I’m branching outdoors more, I’m worried my super soft pair of furia s’ won’t last, or be as useful as I want them to be outdoors, especially as i live in an area with a lot of slab climbing. Overall, I’m looking for a good downturned shoe that performs well on slabby routes, but also can work well on more overhung routes, and has good durability. Currently I’m looking at the evolv oracles, and the scarpa boostics, which seem to fit the somewhat stiff yet somewhat sensitive profile I’m looking for.

thanks

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 3,926

I believe the oracles are being discontinued but I adore them and would recommend them if you see them in your size.

That being said, I’d likely cry real tears using them on a slab route (I’ve come very close) - they’re pretty aggressive. TC Pros fill the niche you’re looking for decently - you really don’t need super aggressive shoes until you get very overhanging or very, very bad footholds on the steep. 

More importantly - I’d recommend just getting two pairs of shoes rather than a quiver of one. Get a cheaper pair like mythos for gym warm ups and slab and then a more performance oriented pair like the Oracles or Skwamas for when the situation calls for it. That way the things more likely to quickly burn out your shoe rubber (gym climbing, skating around on slab) happens to your cheaper shoe - and it means you’ll typically have a pair you can lean on while one is getting resoled. 

abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 195

tip #1, dont wear your "outdoor" shoes inside as indoors really beats em up.

Cam - · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 175

Thanks! I’m pretty new to the whole outdoor shoe niche so this is pretty helpful. I described what I wanted pretty poorly. im most a focused overhung climber, though I want a shoe that can perform on slab, not necessarily super hard slab but won’t hurt to edge on, like a soft shoe. I don’t climb outdoors a ton, and I plan on using a shoe that can be used both somewhat indoors and occasionally outdoors. From what I’ve heard oracles have great durability, and I knew people who have used them for multiple year as their main shoe for outdoors and indoors. Im mostly looking for a shoe that can compliment my super soft shoe and performs across all styles/disciplines, and has good durability.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

You are looking for your gym shoes given the description update. Unless they are floppy, the shoes you wear inside will give you the most confidence outside. You’ll probably only need a specific outdoor shoe if you start doing really hard vert stuff with feet the size of peas or smaller. I used to be a huge shoe quiver guy, but now I’m down to a soft bouldering/sport shoes, tc pros for 12+ tech outside, a resoled pair of big hand me down muira vcs for mileage, and floppy moccs for crack,

My rec is a moderate downturn stiffer shoe with a big toe patch. I’d go try on a bunch at a climbing shoe seller and buy the one in that category with the best fit

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 3,926
John Clark wrote:

You are looking for your gym shoes given the description update. Unless they are floppy, the shoes you wear inside will give you the most confidence outside. You’ll probably only need a specific outdoor shoe if you start doing really hard vert stuff with feet the size of peas or smaller. I used to be a huge shoe quiver guy, but now I’m down to a soft bouldering/sport shoes, tc pros for 12+ tech outside, a resoled pair of big hand me down muira vcs for mileage, and floppy moccs for crack,

My rec is a moderate downturn stiffer shoe with a big toe patch. I’d go try on a bunch at a climbing shoe seller and buy the one in that category with the best fit

+1 on this. My Shoe quiver is now 

  • Oracle or Skwama depending on which is currently getting resoled for anything overhanging/requiring precise footwork
  • TC Pros for Slab, Hard Crack, or a place where I might come into contact with super varied climbing
  • UP Moccs for Mileage and/or easier crack
  • Whichever pair of shoes I missed the resole window on/whichever shoes I don't like and want to burn out for gym climbing

My buddy did recently give me a great deal on the new pair of TC Pros and a pair of Kubos, which is my first truly soft shoe. I haven't figured out how I'd use them outside - they'll likely fill the gym/training shoe gap once my Generals finally burn out. They're cool though for sure.

Cam - · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 175

I guess my issue is that my current indoor shoes are extremely sensitive (softer then even dragos) and I don’t want to have to resole them every couple months, I also would prefer a shoe with more support, as my current shoes hurt on just 15m sport routes. Thanks for the input, this has been super helpful!

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Shoes are consumables and not investments. This is a painful fact.

I agree about the soft shoes being more painful though. A medium stiffness shoe like a solution, hiangle, or instinct will be a game changer for you. They also take resoles well and you can play with different rubbers to suit your performance/pocket book balance.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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