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How To Rescue a Free Soloist

Original Post
Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

The recent rescue in Joshua Tree got me thinking…

Pop quiz hot shot, you see a stranded free soloist, no harness, you have just enough time to rappel down to them.

What do you do?

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,284

Ya shoot the hostage! 

F r i t z · · (Currently on hiatus, new b… · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,155
Tradiban wrote:

The recent rescue in Joshua Tree got me thinking…

Pop quiz hot shot, you see a stranded free soloist, no harness, you have just enough time to rappel down to them.

What do you do?

Administer a hug, of course.


edit: I'd ensure that I'm safe first (prusik or assisted braking device) then form a quick clove hitch from the rope below me. I'd have the stranded climber either step into this or slide it down over their shoulders, forming a makeshift harness. (That's if I didn't have a 240cm sling for them). Then reassess the situation now that they're relatively secure. 
Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

Depends on how insecure they are in the moment I suppose.

Maybe make a double length sling fast and uncomfortable harness and tandem rap down?

Matt Robinson · · Saint Petersburg, FL · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 15
Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72

This is likely another Tradi troll, but I'll bite...

Butt floss harness (hasty) if they are not at risk of pumping out and falling. Then lower them off, or pick off style decent, or let them münter rappel down on their own.

If they are pumping out, honestly prob rap under em' and let em take a seat, then figure out what to do next. Or if its even more of a time bomb, just get them the tail of rope with a bunny ears 8 big enough to stick legs (ideally) or limbs through.

Really there are many options depending on terrain, where they are in relation to me, conditions, etc, etc. There are many right answers here.

Now really, what would YOU do in this situation Tradi!? Rather than ask us, and then swoop back in as devils advocate.

landow 69 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 20

Throw rocks. The bigger the better. 

Adam Slattery · · Platteville Wisconsin · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 25

Do a flip!!!!!!

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I learned how to tie a bowline around my waist with one hand when I was 10.

So, we get a 10 year old to lower down and show him how to do it, and bam, just lower him a rope.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

I've actually done this. The soloist was stable on a ledge but unable to go up or down. I tied into my harness about 30 ft from the end of the rope and led up to him. Then I tied the rope around his waist with a bowline, told him to stay put, and continued up to a belay. Once there I brought him up to me. I got him into a proper harness (brought up from below) and lowered him to the ground just as the Rangers arrived.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

The second time I soloed the diamond, I had just got past the flakes traverse and the nice long corners up there were just pouring water. I spent a while fooling around with a way to get over a particularly wet bulge. Eventually I decided to bail.

As I downclimbed, a party actually offered to let me tie off with a rope and join them. It didn’t sound like fun so I went on my way. I was back in the parking lot by noon.

Soloing without a plan and without the ability to get out of the situation is crazy.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,252

I have a buddy who helped rescue a naked free soloist of sorts. It’s a crazy tale (obviously) and my friend never got the whole story on why the guy was out there but dude was disoriented and had possibly been the victim/participant of some gang activity.

Long story short, I’d blast the soloist a quick clip of Honnlove styling the boulder crux, clap them on the shoulder and scream “Send it or end it, biooootch!”

Skyler Scruggs · · The South · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 10

I would ask if they had seen that free solo movie 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

"just enough time to...."

 

 C'mon, stuck, stranded, whatever, either they can sit and chill indefinitely....or they're about to splat. The first rule of rescue is to not make the situation any worse. So unless it's a fast, easy fix, with low risk to me and my party? Sorry, you can wait for SAR to get there to pluck you off.

Those who solo are, by definition, eschewing interventions from others. I'm willing to respect that, especially since my friends who solo are far stronger and more capable climbers than I am. If they want help, then we sort it out. 

Now, are we talking garden variety fools who get themselves in a fix? Or get talked into something they have no business doing? Different thing. But even then, I'd leave it to the rescue dudes for an actual pluck off. Trying to be a hero isn't always a great idea, and knocking the soloist off by throwing a rope wouldn't be a fun day for anyone.

Best, H.

S T · · Genoa, Nv · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 0

Look the other way and go on with my day. I’ve seen it and it worked.

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

lol yeah the only “plan” is topping out. some plan 

Sounds like Highaltitude's plan included the ability to bail by downclimbing, if necessary. It clearly wasn't the only plan, and appears to have worked. Not sure what the "lol yeah" is supposed to signify.

I might, though, have misunderstood your post.

Ignatius Pi · · Europe · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 13
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

i was agreeing with his plan to down climb. i think many soloists lack that strategy. relying on topping out is a bad one 

Ah - and apologies; I did indeed misunderstand your post. Our common language doesn't always cope with the large ocean between us - although that's just a reason on my part, not an excuse.

wivanoff · · Northeast, USA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 719

Soloist was about 20' below the top. I tied my rope to an anchor, tied a series of hand loops in the rope and tossed it down to him.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
Mr Rogers wrote:

This is likely another Tradi troll, but I'll bite...

Butt floss harness (hasty) if they are not at risk of pumping out and falling. Then lower them off, or pick off style decent, or let them münter rappel down on their own.

If they are pumping out, honestly prob rap under em' and let em take a seat, then figure out what to do next. Or if its even more of a time bomb, just get them the tail of rope with a bunny ears 8 big enough to stick legs (ideally) or limbs through.

Really there are many options depending on terrain, where they are in relation to me, conditions, etc, etc. There are many right answers here.

Now really, what would YOU do in this situation Tradi!? Rather than ask us, and then swoop back in as devils advocate.

You ever lasso’d a steer?

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Assuming what we have here in this situation is a stranded, erstwhile “free soloist” who is now wanting assistance to get out of the mess they put themselves and others in.  

I’d first dangle the rescue rope just out of reach and force them to recite “I am a fucking dumbass” three times with their underwear on their head while I’m live-streaming to their Instagram acct.  

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

   my chalk bag is always tied to me with full strength cord.  getting on the older side.. creeping up on 61...  so if for some reason I had a medical emergency if other climbers happened to be around  all they would have to do is lower a line with a biner tied to it. not comfortable but it works. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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