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4 slide/dual slide harnesses
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Why aren't there more dual slide/4 slide harnesses? My mind mostly goes to weight savings, but in that case I would expect only the higher end sport climbing harnesses to have a single slide. Dual slide just seems more practical with the broader size range, gear loops/belay loop stay centered, etc. Am I the only one that hates having to pick either centered gear loops OR centered belay loop? Why should I have to pick when a dual slide let's me have both? Besides weight saving (which is pretty bogus in my opinion if you're not climbing at an extremely high level), what other advantages do single slide harnesses have? Why not at least include it on harnesses that are already super bulky (BD big gun, Metolious safe tech)? Anyone have a favorite dual slide harness they've found (Petzl Corax, Mammut Ophir 4 slide, Camp energy C4, BD momentum 4S, etc.)? What are your thoughts? |
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Love my Corax. I am mediocre at best so the weight has never been an issue. I also only have the one harness for both rock and ice. That’s why I chose the 4 slide option to be able to adjust for additional layers in the winter. |
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My CAMP Jasper has double back buckles all four points (both sides waist, each leg) but alas, they don't make it anymore. Some harnesses simply allow you to slide the waist part where you want it on the waist belt part (it goes all the way around). Best, H. |
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Repeating what I said elsewhere but if you like 4 buckle design this one is a good choice: been out w it a few times now particularly happy with how bomber the tie in points are this one is gonna last
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The DMM renegade lets you have both with a single slide and floating belt. |
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Out of my own curiosity I made this list of some of the 4 buckle harnesses (or floating waistbelts) I could find online. It's arranged from lightest at the top to the heaviest on the bottom. BD Momentum 4S, 340 g Edelrid Jay*, 368 g CAMP Energy CR 4, 380 g DMM Viper*, 400 g CAMP Jasper CR 4, 410 g (kinda bulky looking) DMM Renegade*, 415 g Singing Rock Spinel, 415 g Mammut Ophir 4 Slide, 420 g WC Movement, 450 g (weight data per weighmyrack) Petzl Corax, 470 g Mammut 4 Slide, 490 g WC Syncro, 560 g *= floating waistbelt not four buckles I'm certain there are way more but this is from <5 minutes of googling. IMO I'd go with the BD as I like their molded gear loops way more than the fabric covered ones other brands use. Also it's the lightest on the list too. As a note the Arc'teryx C-Quence clocks in at 360 g, the BD Solution is 330 g (Guide being 394 g), Petzl Sama is 415 g, Sitta is 270 g. I see lots of people using those harnesses and I'd say the Sitta is the only lightweight one out of that bunch. But a fair number of the four buckle harnesses aren't way heavier then your average harness. |
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I imagine the reason has something to do with the move away from foam based padding and instead the focus on spreading the load. I imagine this makes incorporating more webbing a pain. Its also only really a feature set that benefits people who sit right at the edge of a harnesses range (poor sizing ranges) or people who might be climbing with a lot of layers in which case you probably don't want the same harness anyway. |
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There is quite a few 4 buckle harnesses on the market, more than there was in the past. I don't see the point in this thread. |
Desert Rock Sports wrote: Maybe it's just the 4/5 climbing shops I most frequent here in Utah but they usually only have the Petzl Corax and one time I saw a Mammut Ophir. Then they have 8-12 single slide harnesses. You didn't answer any of my questions though, so I don't see the point of your reply ;) No need to be so bitter, man :) If you don't see the point, don't give the thread your time. |
Old lady H wrote: I'm currently using a Jasper CR4 and I've been looking at a replacement as it's getting to that age... Has anyone tried the Energy CR4? It seems to be a decent option for sport and light trad but there aren't really any in depth reviews out there. |
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Dan The biggest difference between the Jasper cr4 and the energy cr4 is that the Jasper is set up with clipper slots as well. The Jasper is a little bit nicer but they are both good harnesses |
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I ordered the Mammut 4 Slide ($59.95 list) after looking at the Misty Mountain Cadillacs current price ($179.95). I'll gladly pay for an awesome harness, which the Cadillac is, however, I already have 2 in my basement (and 2 Misty Mountain Sonics as well) someplace..... I can't find where I put them. Looking at the old Petzl that partner Ujahn gifted me years back for lightweight free climbing, I'm feeling I need a new one. I still have two MM Titans and a Metolius Wall Harness for hanging around. Lots of people would buy a Misty Mountain Cadillac if you told them they could only have one harness. I think my newest Cadillac, which had the old style but still had the 4 buckles, was bought in 2011. It was only $61 though, maybe it's time for a new Cadillac too. https://mistymountain.com/shop/climbing-shop/wall/new-cadillac-quick-adjust-mens/ |
Sunny-D wrote: Do they have similar comfort and freedom of movement? |
Dan L wrote: I have an energy CR4, but it’s not my primary harness (I bought it to have on hand as a loaner, but I mostly leave my TRS setup on it). My only complaint is that the belay loop is very lightweight and I suspect it will need to be retired faster than a harness with a standard belay loop. Otherwise it’s basically what it says on the tin— lightly padded, basic gear loops, very adjustable. I prefer laminated textile/3D mesh padding to foam like the ECR4 for lightly padded harnesses, but that’s not hugely important. The ECR4 belay loop is two wraps of flat (non tubular) webbing with 3 bartacks, when what I would consider a normal belay loop is two wraps of tubular webbing with 5 bartacks. Everything’s tested, so I’m not concerned with the strength out of the box, but once it starts to wear there’s just a lot less extra. |
Eli W wrote: Thanks for the info. What's your primary harness at the moment? |
Don Frijoles wrote: Especially if you get one in the correct size |
Yoda Jedi Knight wrote: ..and never lose or gain weight.... |
Billcoe wrote: ....Or climb with 6 layers one month (and still freezing) and with your top off basking in the sun a few months later..... |
Billcoe wrote: I'm sure if you could only get your belay and gear loops centered to prevent having to move your hand an extra inch, you'd totally send. |
Yoda Jedi Knight wrote: Maybe it’s not an issue depending on what you’re equipped with, but tie in points being centered relative to leg loops can be make a substantial difference when it comes package comfort. |
Yoda Jedi Knight wrote: Geez who pissed in your cheerios, man? No need to get so grumpy about people liking things to line up and be centered... I get it, it's not your thing. I didn't say it had to be your thing. But as is evidenced by this thread, some people do enjoy the slight increase in comfort/satisfaction :) Also, I believe his point wasn't strictly about the centering while having layers on. I think he was getting at the point of having 2× the adjustability. |
