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Tips for a Climbing Trip to Italy?

Original Post
Samuel Parker · · Stockton, CA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 15

Hopefully, this fits in the general forum. 

Brainstorming an Italy trip this year before starting grad school and think it would be sweet to try and hit up some climbing areas or via ferrate while I'm there, especially in the Dolomites or in Sardegna. 

The only problem is I would likely be going solo. Does anyone have experience going to climbing destinations solo and have tips for networking to find partners and make climbs happen? 

The trip is primarily to visit and see friends I met while living there from 2017-2019, but I'd love to get on some of the amazing rock the country has to offer. Any advice for making it happen is appreciated! (esp for packing gear/what to bring if I do decide to climb, etc)

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Paging RKM!   

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

When I was in San Vito Lo Capo, Italy I saw a whopping total of two americans and three other English speakers in a week. Though one Italian came up to me and told me I was "buff" and "macho" for climbing this 12b (I am a human pool noodle). If you are real desperate it might be worth seeing if there are climbs you wanna do and messaging the person who added them on MP (mp is mostly used by americans).

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

I have a copy of dolomites rock climbs and via-ferrata which I have found to give a good overview of routes. My last trip was solo so I did a bunch of ferrata routes including two overnight circuits. A good ferrata lanyard is this one (great price). Also worth taking belay/half gloves and hiking poles. This last trip I did not take my poles because of my return and not wanting to deal with checked bags. Would have been nice to have had them though. The other times I have been over there for climbing/skiing I have had partners lined up. So not much input.

Hank Caylor · · Livin' in the Junk! · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 643

Finale Ligure is absolutely stellar in every way. No clue about finding partners, so sorry.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

If you are not adverse to sport climbing, Arco is the place you want to be. It is literally an international sport climbing Disneyland, and the town revolves around the sport. There are also via feratas there, with rental stands on every corner, but we did not do any. Arco and the Trento area is also very close to the dolomites, and there are some impressive bigger peaks around Malveno, which is very close.

Samuel Parker · · Stockton, CA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 15

I do speak fluent Italian, which will make it a bit easier. I like the ideas for Finale Ligure. Definitely will have to check that out. 

Luckily just hit up a friend today and he says he may be able to come with. So the whole thing would be much easier!

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5
Hank Caylor wrote:

Finale Ligure is absolutely stellar in every way. No clue about finding partners, so sorry.

This. One of the best place to climb in this part of Europe.
My advice is to go to finale and stay here: campeggiodelmulino.com/
Crowed is mostly climbers.

If after 1 day of chatting with different groups you haven’t found at least 2 you can tag along with, you may want to question your social skills ;)

Happy climbing 

Nb: as far as gear goes I would say be ready for single and multipitches sports. No need for trad gear. 

Al Pine · · Shawangadang, NY · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

Cala Gonone has lots of fun, varied single pitch sport climbing and long slabs. Approaches are generally short and easy. Rest days at the beach. Not sure what time of year you plan on climbing. Sardinia can be uncomfortably hot in the summer. Have heard great things about the Dolomites in the summer. Arco too. If you end up in Sardinia I can lend you my copy of Pietra Di Luna.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 22,419
Samuel Parker wrote:

The only problem is I would likely be going solo. Does anyone have experience going to climbing destinations solo and have tips for networking to find partners and make climbs happen? 

You might try the international forum and/or international partners forum to solicit a climbing partner.  Another spot is UK climbers.  Lining a partner up ahead of time has worked for me.  Or head to a super popular sports cragging area and find the most climber-ish lodging.

Other than hiring the occasional guide and soloing some easier lines, the Dolomites might be tough to find a partner.  The climbing is pretty spread out and most folks are coupled up.   Maybe Cinque Torri.  Arco isn't too far away and the campground has a bunch of climbers usually.  Maybe the campground in Finale Ligure.  I've seen a few solo folks there that looked sorta approachable (ha ha).

Would help to have a reasonably full kit (rope/rack) in case you do find someone to climb with.  You could always self-belay at a busy crag and hope someone takes pity on you...

Yeah, take a VF rig.  Good to have that option.  Having a car would help too.

Good luck!

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 2,293
Brian in SLC wrote: hiring the occasional guide and soloing some easier lines - the Dolomites 

Bingo!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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