Glove System for Ice Climbing

What is your favorite set of 3-5 gloves for a day of ice climbing? This may vary if you are top roping versus climbing a big alpine objective. Would love to hear everyone’s favorite glove choices, from approach gloves to belay mittens. 

Hestra Ergo Grip Active Wool Terry for approach and leading.

Hestra Ergo Grip Active Wool Terry

Showa Temres 282-02 for wet conditions

Showa 

Rab Pivot for cold leads

Rab

Heavy double layer fleece mittens with Goretex shell (from Montbell, long discontinued) for cold belays

Would probably get BD Mercury Mitts or Hestra Army Leather Expedition Mitts if I lost these Montbell ones.  

Whatever you’re doing, you’ll be glad to have a pair of Showas along. I just wish LFS in Dutch Harbor carried the 282-02. The only time I’ve seen them in a store, they didn’t have my size. 

When it's not ridiculously cold I usually bring

Fleece liners for approach

Hestra Ergo Grip Incline for climbing

Hestra Army Leather Short GTX for wet conditions (and maybe a second pair if it's terrible)

Hestra Wakayama 5-Finger for belaying

And I've been contemplating buying a pair of Showa's this season to see what all the fuss is about.

Temres I have found to be great for the approach and easy stuff in general, they're very usable. 

Get your self some wrist gaiters(mine are by extremities) they add so much warmth to a glove as well as taking up any slop in the fit all without making it harder to hold onto a tool or compressing your fingers. 

For multipitches:

BD terminator for leading
BD Punisher to follow or as a back up
Smartwool Heavyweight liners, in case it get really cold
Hestra Army Leather GTX Mittens for approach, belays and rapping down 

+ Temres if it’s wet and easy (no pun intended)

I recently bought a pair of Hestra ErgoGrip Wool Terry so I may add that for approach/ back up for lead, but I find the fingers too long for me. 

I think it worthwhile to read Colin Haley's write up on his clothing system for alpine climbing.  He goes into a lot of detail regarding his glove choices.  

https://www.patagonia.com/stories/colin-haleys-clothing-system-for-alpine-climbing-in-the-chalten-massif/story-95145.html

I tend to use OR and Rab the most. I hate Showas. 

My glove lineup goes like this: 

Outdoor Designs Diablo Tech- harder leading

BD Terminator- generally leading

Showa (blue or 282-02, I have both)- clearing snow/really wet. 

BD Punisher- easy leading in cold temps/following

BD Guide lobster mitts- belaying

Truck M1 Pro (for approach and rappel)

I mix and match based on the terrain, the day, how much snow I need to clear, how wet, how cold, if I'm leading, if I'm following, if it's hard, if it's easy.