Headed to El Chorro mid January...looking for route recommendations

It's our first time to El Chorro; we will be there for 2 weeks.  Would love some recommendations (from 5.easy to 5.hard) for first few days of climbing (getting used to the rock/grades etc).  Thanks so much!

I like to start at the Castrojo sector, basically the lowest section of the Frontales area. Not necessarily the best climbing at El Chorro, though definitely worthwhile, but it has an easy approach, is somewhat sheltered, and has a good variety of grades in a concentrated area. Nearby is Amptrax which is a classic multi-pitch at a reasonable grade for most.

I also think that Encantadas and the nearby crags, also offer a very good selection of quality routes. One of those outlying cliffs, Cocina Caliente, has an easy approach and 11 shortish routes ranging from 5a-6b—roughly 5.7-10 c/d, so another good place to ‘warm up’. The Escalera Arabe area has a bit of a longer approach from where most folks stay, but has many good routes, including several easy multi-pitch.

Really it is hard to go wrong with any of the areas, at least in the front areas. In three visits I’ve never ventured deeper into the gorge to climb. ( many of those routes are now off limits) though have done the worthwhile walk down the Camonito Del Rey (King’s Walk).

It is a wonderful area. Enjoy.

hi Gail

I met you in EPC many years ago and later in the Gunks. I live in EC and would be happy to tell you about the climbs, crags and the area if you would like. You could PM me your number and I can call or whatsapp. I would also be happy to show you around once you are here if you would like

Grades here are very soft.  6b or 6b+  is comparable to Gunks 5.9 or 10a at most. there are 3 nice 5s at Cocina, only 1 good 5 at Castrojo

Alan's sector recommendations are good but the routes at Castrojo and Cocina are mostly 30-35 meters, there are a few 20-25 m. Castrojo does have 4 short 5s, The Rockfax guidebook is the only good one but it has many errors so beware what is shows for anchors, route paths and grades

For rental cars, look at doyouspain.com. much cheaper than the car rental websites

Do you have a place to stay?

When will you be coming? the season and weather greatly affect which crags are good on any day

if  you want to walk the caminito, make reservations ASAP because it often sells out way in advance

Richard Aiken