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Triple Action Locker for Top Rope Anchor?

Original Post
Chezky Steiner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2022 · Points: 16

Curious to hear thoughts/reasoning/data on using a single triple action locker for the master point on a top rope anchor. I was taught to use two opposite and opposed screw gates, and have always done this. On the other hand, a triple action locker seems to be equivalent to this in many contexts. What would be the concern if any about using a single triple action locker?

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 363

No benefit using the triple action.   Two opposing biners is plenty safe and the rope will run smoother through two than the single locker.  Just stick with what you have been doing. 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

I have two dedicated tr/general anchor draws- petzl spirit lockers on the bolt end and steel metolius screw locks on the rope end. Call me overly safety conscious, but I’m happier knowing that my friends and I are dangling on those instead of other options. Cue “overkill, opposite and opposed, weight problem &etc” comments below. Cheers and climb hard!

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 555

Everyone will look at you funny if you tr on one biner, triple lock or otherwise. Theoretically it shouldn’t matter but… 

They will look at you less funny if you just use two opposed quickdraws. Cheap steel lockers are the way to go if you tr a lot.

Jesse B’s set up is perfect for heavy tr use. 

Climbing Weasel · · Massachusetts · Joined May 2022 · Points: 0

How do you like the edelrid bulletproof? I was looking at those for the more pear shape- I’ve seen some interesting stuff about opposite and opposed tr d carabiners binding on the rope when under tension, but have yet to experience anything remotely close. 

The Weavers · · High Falls NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10
Dr Logic wrote:

If you're just setting up TR anchors, just grab two metolius auto locking steel biners and call it good. They're cheap and bombproof. 

The Metolius steel auto lockers are absolutely phenomenal. Over 1000 TR laps on mine with minimal wear...all for under $15.

Definitely use two. One carabiner for TR is sketchy!!!!

Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0
Chezky Steiner wrote:

Curious to hear thoughts/reasoning/data on using a single triple action locker for the master point on a top rope anchor. I was taught to use two opposite and opposed screw gates, and have always done this. On the other hand, a triple action locker seems to be equivalent to this in many contexts. What would be the concern if any about using a single triple action locker?

It is not equivalent.  IA single triple action locker is not redundant.  Add a single non locking oval carabiner with the gate down and opposed and then you are redundant.

Stan Hampton · · St. Charles, MO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

Single ropes don't break.  They cut over sharp edges due to user error.

Single belay loops don't fail unless the owner abuses them and doesn't retire them soon enough.  One harness actually has two belay loops.

Single belay devices don't fail.  Users do. (at least I've never heard of an ATC failing)

Single biners that are 60ft above us can crossload.  They are still very strong, but considerably weaker than when loaded correctly.  easy to solve by just adding a $5 carabiner.

Single bolts have been known to fail due to age or being placed incorrectly (there were a lot of these scary biners 20+ years ago)

Most of these problems can be mitigate.  One way is through redundancy.

I agree.  That is a better way to state it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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