Best cheap warmup shoes

I’m looking for a pair of generally cheap shoes to use as warmup/drill shoes for indoors. I’m looking for a slight downturn, but something comfy. Any recommendations that won’t blow the budget?

Go to the store. Find a shoe that is cheap and comfortable. 

I would get a mocc type shoe as well. Otherwise, the BD Momentum is the best cheap shoe I’ve had. Performs well (5.12/v7) and has held shape even after 3 resoles. My feet sweat like I live in Florida even though I live in the high desert, so my shoes typically lose shape very quickly, which was fine when I climbed crack, but now is annoying as a sport climber.

I think Sportiva, mad rock, BD, and Butora all have knit upper shoes now that are pretty reasonable and will last along time as a warm up/mileage shoe

Someone needs to make a shoe specific for this. I would take a pretty significant decrease in performance for a shoe that doesn't burn a hole in the big toe from standing on a hold that's bolted to sandpaper. 

gtluke wrote:

Someone needs to make a shoe specific for this. I would take a pretty significant decrease in performance for a shoe that doesn't burn a hole in the big toe from standing on a hold that's bolted to sandpaper. 

Not trying to break rule #1 but blowing a hole in your rand before your sole is a you problem, not a shoe problem. Work silent feet drills and watch your toe until you have it solidly on the hold, should sort out that problem and save you money.

I climb in gyms that have the sandpaper walls

I've got a pair of katanas I bought from the rubber room, resoled with some kinda PVC instead of rubber. It's the perfect gym shoe and I picked it up for like $30. I'm pretty sure it hasn't worn at all in the year and a half I've been gym climbing with it. Does it grip well? No, but who cares in the gym. 

Next time you send your shoes in, ask if they'll put something harder on there.

Michael Abend wrote:

Go to the store. Find a shoe that is cheap and comfortable. 

And then keep an eye on ebay, geartrade, etc. for when it shows up in your size. Cheap shoes with little wear tend to be pretty easy to find, since beginners will buy them and then give up on the sport. I have purchased far too many beater shoes because I can't pass up on something in my size being sold for like $40.

I usually only wear la sportiva but have been wearing a moc as a warmup/crack shoe for a while now and have been happy enough with them especially as I paid like $50

rock climbing wrote:

Actually not true. The rands on TC pro are the same rubber as the rubber on the Solution toe patch and it is less durable than the sole rubber.

Manufacturers used more durable rubber for the front rands (miura or instinct) but now comfort is more important than durability. 

Yes, different durometer rubber wears differently, but my advice still applies when comparing apples to apples. The main factor in rand wear is still how you place your feet on the holds with respect to the wall and if you drag/rotate your toe against the wall while it is placed. I do a lot of volume on high friction walls and am cheap, so I pay attention to these things pretty closely. I get my toe caps done probably once every other resole now that I follow my own advice in my earlier post.

These are rubbers I currently use in my heavy use rotation if you want to nit pick: Stealth HF (Teams), UP RH, Trax SAS, Trax XE, XS Edge. I have previously used C4, Onyxx, Grip 2, and Mi6. In every case, precise footwork helps longevity (except for gen one Anasazi Pros, which split if you even thought about using them for real climbing).

Also, your profile makes me think you are more troll than climber. 270 contributions, all but 1 in the forums, not a real name, and no to-do or ticks.

Edit: post limited out for 12/20. See you tomorrow, folks ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

The best warmup shoe is your the older pair of your "good" shoes. Climbing in cheap shoes won't do you any favors. 

John Clark wrote:

Also, your profile makes me think you are more troll than climber. 270 contributions, all but 1 in the forums, not a real name, and no to-do or ticks.

and exactly what purpose does 364 "to-dos" serve?

I hate it when someone warmup shoes my project shoes. 

Michael Abend wrote:

Go to the store. Find a shoe that is cheap and comfortable. 

What store has every brand climbing shoe? I'd bet most people don't even live near a store that sells climbing shoes. 

rock climbing wrote:

Actually not true. The rands on TC pro are the same rubber as the rubber on the Solution toe patch and it is less durable than the sole rubber.

Manufacturers used more durable rubber for the front rands (miura or instinct) but now comfort is more important than durability. 

To my knowledge, Acopa might be one of the only brands using their sole rubber as their rand rubber? At least their OG formula. Maybe TRAX SAS too? UP also sells rand rubber, though not sure which one this in their lineup.

Edit: Also really like the Butora Endeavors for this. Most comfortable shoe I've ever worn and resoles pretty well. Rubber is maybe just okay though.

Several things to add here, from a tried and true shoe princess.

- I can’t remember the last time I blew through a rand that wasn’t within a day of blowing through the sole. At least a decade. If you’re frequently blowing out the rand way too soon, that’s definitely a technique problem.

- Climbing in shit shoes can reinforce poor footwork habits. Things like skipping small holds and high stepping to big holds. Possible in the gym but often a hindrance outside.

- Easy on and off definitely matters in the gym, get Velcro or slippers.

For me balance comes down to the Evolve mocc  rip off or the Defy. Neither is quite cheap but they’re quite good and get solidly broken in at the gym, allowing them to double as a crack shoe when needed.