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Best Ice Fest ?

Original Post
grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0

Interested in trying out an ice climbing festival. Looking at Ouray, Cody, and Valdez. Any tips on how to choose? I have rock climbed for 15 years but I have never tried ice. I want to check out a festival to get started because I like the idea of group instruction and getting to rent/borrow the gear. 

For reference I live in SLC. I am a strong rock climber (trad, sport, bouldering) with lots of rope experience. Have lots of skiing experience. 

Thanks for any input!!

Mike V. · · Logan, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 55
ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

Valdez is a special place that radiates vibes unique to the great north  

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Dr Logic wrote:

Ouray if you've never climbed ice. 

Also, anytime, no need to wait for a fest. One of the few places you can rent ice gear anytime and it's easy to find partners. 

I guess I didn't realize this ... I would prefer to not be involved in a massive, crowded, shit show. Guide services available for instruction outside of the festival? 

Benton Hodges · · Jackson, WY · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 645
grug g wrote:

I guess I didn't realize this ... I would prefer to not be involved in a massive, crowded, shit show. Guide services available for instruction outside of the festival? 

I believe there's a few guide outfits running ice all winter around Ouray, but some CO locals might chime in with specific recommendations. If you can get to the ice park during the middle of the week, I think you'll have a much better chance of not being involved in a massive crowd. Get a guide for a day or two, if needed. After that, the top rope accessibility makes it pretty easy for anyone comfortable with rigging an extended anchor to get a LOT of ice laps in. 

grug g · · SLC · Joined Jul 2022 · Points: 0
Benton Hodges wrote:

I believe there's a few guide outfits running ice all winter around Ouray, but some CO locals might chime in with specific recommendations. If you can get to the ice park during the middle of the week, I think you'll have a much better chance of not being involved in a massive crowd. Get a guide for a day or two, if needed. After that, the top rope accessibility makes it pretty easy for anyone comfortable with rigging an extended anchor to get a LOT of ice laps in. 

Good to know!

I am very comfortable rigging an extended anchor.

David S · · California · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 10

Munising!  Mega ice, great folx, huge fest, chill vibe.

Benton Hodges · · Jackson, WY · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 645
grug g wrote:

Good to know!

I am very comfortable rigging an extended anchor.

And even no partner necessary! I think the ice park is a TR solo'ers dream scenario for ice climbing. No standing around in the cold and belaying anyone -- just laps on on laps on laps. Nowhere better to gain mileage on ice.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,592

Nipigon Ice fest is pretty fun, off the beaten track, world class ice climbing without the crowds of the famous venues -- https://outdoorskillsandthrills.com/nipigonicefest

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

I wouldn’t go to Ouray during the festival if you want to climb ice, way to many people. I would do what others have suggested and go midweek and get a guide for the day. 

Bill Thompson · · Marquette, MI · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 245

I'm biased but Michigan Ice Fest or for guiding outside the event Michigan Ice Fest Guides

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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