Alpine harness

Hey folks

Trying to compile a list of harnesses that you put on with both feet on the ground- essentially leg loops has clips or something similar. Researching for a new one.

ideally 4 gear loops and at least 2 ice screw slots but  these are not as important as fit.

So far I have

Petzl tour

Petzl harness

Blue ice choucas pro

Edelrid Prisma guide

BD couloir 3s

Thanks

I think construction wise - Prisma is better than Blue ice but Prisma is quite hard to put on with your lags stick to the ground...

For all those features you're gonna have to choose between the Prism Guide and Choucas Pro. As for fit, that's incredibly personal. 

Y Tsim wrote:

I think construction wise - Prisma is better than Blue ice but Prisma is quite hard to put on with your lags stick to the ground...

So you have to ‘step through’ one loop?

RWPT wrote:

So you have to ‘step through’ one loop?

Any harness with buckled leg loops is easily put on with your legs on thr ground, what varies is how easily its done with gloves. How important is weight and bulk to you? 

BD technician easily fits all requirements if you accept the lack of clip on the harness. Slightly more fiddly than a clip but I'd argue less fiddly than a lot of the options you have suggested. 

https://weighmyrack.com/harness?f[]=field_harness_buckle_leg:auto&f[]=field_harness_buckle_leg:clip&f[]=field_gear_loop_range:common&f[]=field_gear_loop_range:commonplus&f[]=field_features_harness:ice&f%5B%5D[]=field_harness_buckle_leg:auto&f%5B%5D[]=field_harness_buckle_leg:clip&f%5B%5D[]=field_gear_loop_range:common&f%5B%5D[]=field_gear_loop_range:commonplus

All the harnesses on the market that fit your requirements. 

I have the choucas pro and it’s been decent for climbing when there is little chance I’ll sit in the harness. When I do sit in it (lowering while ice climbing or hanging belay) it’s pretty uncomfortable. The mesh webbing gets all buckled and kind of stays like that after enough times. I still recommend it for alpine climbing and it’s not as bad wearing layers in the winter but still not as good as a heavier weight harness.

I have the Prisma guide. The leg loop tabs are a bit fiddly and hard to do with gloves, but with bare fingers they work well and quickly. With some practice it's a matter of seconds and definitely can be done standing in the ground without lifting your legs. It's surprisingly comfortable to rap or semi hanging for a bit. Can carry a dbl rack with ease. 4 clipper slots. Highly recommend for anything alpine where weight and ease of movement matter. You almost forget it's there. 

Jake woo wrote:

I have the Prisma guide. The leg loop tabs are a bit fiddly and hard to do with gloves, but with bare fingers they work well and quickly. With some practice it's a matter of seconds and definitely can be done standing in the ground without lifting your legs. It's surprisingly comfortable to rap or semi hanging for a bit. Can carry a dbl rack with ease. 4 clipper slots. Highly recommend for anything alpine where weight and ease of movement matter. You almost forget it's there. 

Call me an idiot but I was able to try a Prisma guide on but even with leg loops unbuckled I had to step through one leg loop (between leg loop and strap that attached to back of harness).  Couldn’t figure out how to do it wiith both feet in the ground.

Is it possible?

Leg loops def come apart! 

RWPT wrote:

So you have to ‘step through’ one loop?

Like the comment above, it just hard to put on with glove but ok with hands. 

The Choucas Pro is pretty nice for alpine rock/ice/mixed. I've used the same one for 2 seasons of alpine guiding and on personal trips and have been really impressed with the durability. I find the clipper slots well placed and the gear loops work well for the designed use. With alpine layers on, it's comfortable enough. I'll be buying another one with no hesitation.