Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Himali vs Arcteryx
|
Does anyone have familiarity with both the Arcteryx Atom LT and the Himali Ascent? They look very similar. In fact, most Himali items seem like they are attempting to be analogous to some other popular item on the market (e.g. their fleece midlayers that look much like the R1) https://himalilife.com/himali-mens-ascent-stretch-hoodie.html I'm in the market for an Atom LT; many people endorse it as a wear-all-day jacket for cold multipitch conditions, or as mid layer for very cold alpine/ice days and at the belay. But I'd consider the Himali Ascent in it's place, if they are as similar as they look. Any experience? |
|
Eh everybody's grid fleeces knock off the r1 cuz it's a really good solution for that kind of layer. I like the atom as a winter midlayer, less as a multi pitching jacket (it doesn't pack that small and isnt that light). No experience with the himali jacket but I think active insulated layers (I assume you intend to wear it while climbing) have come a long way? People seem to like the nano air. The atom is 10 years old at least and I know I'd get really hot climbing in mine even if it was in the 40s |
take TAKE wrote: Thanks for the thoughts. Are you not considering the Atom an active insulation layer? I thought that it would be comparable to the nano air in application. |
|
The Atom LT just isn't as breathable as the newer active insulation. The Proton LT or Proton FL is better then the Atom LT IMO of course. |
Ben Ha wrote: Maybe the Himali jacket is not as versatile as I had thought then; it's considerably heavier than both of these at ~16.8 oz. (The Atom LT, Proton LT, Proton FL are 13.2oz, 13.2oz, 12.1oz, respectively) |
|
Guessing but the face fabric of the Proton is more breathable then the Atom LT. And the Fleece side panel is what makes the Atom lt breathable ... |
Joe Hollowed wrote: Nah I am specifically comparing them and saying I imagine (and folks also posting here seem to agree) that better active insulation layers have come along. I think the level of activity the atom is appropriate for is quite low in above-freezing temps. I used to wear it ice climbing over an r1 with no shell down to single digit temps. I don't really climb rock with a midlayer on - if its too cold for an r1 and a windshirt it's too cold to rock climb, in my book. I have belay puffies for multipitch that don't try to be "active" and are simply warm |
|
The atom is what we had before the current iteration of active institution, before that it was pertex pile, before that the polar fleece and before all of this, wool. The himali is the modern iteration of active institution and will serve you better and be more comfortable at least in form factor. It will be far too warm for you though, 100gsm would have you boiling/maybe it'd make a nice jacket for skiing?) something like a patagonia nano air or arcteryx photon. Something around 40-60gsm is preferable for this new type of insulation. |
that guy named seb wrote: That's what I would have thought. In this interview with Dave Schaeffer from Himali, he states that the heavier insulation for the jacket was in response to wide feedback that jackets like e.g. the Atom LT are too cold. Which I've not really read anywhere, if anything the opposite. Though he also says that their gear is intended to "go to big peaks, but also stuff around CO, fourteeners, and skiiing..."
Slightly off topic, but does anyone have a source that details this history? |
Joe Hollowed wrote: Sadly no definitive source on the history of climbing apparel, patagucci were the first to use polar fleece with the synchilla in 1981 according to patagucci after being developed by Malden mills in 1979, though there may be other fleeces that predate this. Pertex pile is a tricky one as it's uncertain when it originated maybe 1979, maybe the early 80s it's hard to say. But it didn't seem to catch on until the early 90s. Wool was all we had until malory used down and ventile for the first ascent of everest. |
that guy named seb wrote: And actually wool is making a comeback for certain items. Baselayers of course, but some brands are now using shredded wool/corn starch fabrics to replace plastics in their active insulation mid layers. Which makes sense, wool is a thermostatic regulator instead of an insulator so it works very well for this type of layer. It's just a bit heavy so for now I don't really see it catching on for belay jackets or heavier duty insulators. |
Victor Machtel wrote: Wool shows some real promise as an active insulator, issue you have with it is every brand is using as a non woven making dimensional stability and durability poor. I went to a talk by a company that is using wool as a non woven jacket fill and using PLA as a binding fiber. But sadly it needs to be quilted. One other issue when I asked them if they plan on the outdoor space is they found the water uptake too high and it got too heavy, it also only handled around 25 washes or so. It has some potential with maybe some added lanolin or possibly even a dwr wash but it's fairly limited in how far it can go even putting aside warmth to weight ratio. |
|
That's good information, thanks! |
|
If anyone is interested in the Himali I’ll post my/ my gf’s reviews here in case they help someone.
|
|
That guy named seb hit the nail on the head. The Atom LT is going to be most similar to the Patagonia Nano Air or the standard (and now discontinued) North Face Ventrix, all using 60g insulation. The TNF Ventrix is the most breathable of them all, which also means the least wind resistant. Patagucci also makes a lighter, 40g version of their Nano Air, which is roughly as warm or maybe slightly warmer than an R1. I believe, but could be wrong, that the Proton or the FL versions are also going to be lighter 40g versions. The Himali Ascent uses 100g insulation. It's most similar to the Atom AR. I imagine both are going to be much warmer than any of the above. Likely TOO warm for long-term high intensity activities like uphill skinning, unless it's below zero, or you're above 16,000 ft. (Tangential unrelated sidenote, and just my opinion. Arc't stuff is often the best, but you USED to pay an uber price premium for it. You'd pay 25% more for a 5% improvement, if any. Not sure if that's still true though. (Disclaimer: the only Arc't stuff I've tried were gloves and mittens, and was TERRIBLY disappointed. A pair of their uber warm mittens sucked and felt very fragile in comparison to an older version of BD mitts at 1/3rd the price. A pair of their thin gloves offered literally zero warmth. Gloves at 1/3 - 1/4 the price offered much higher quality. Arc jackets may be the best, but I'd recommend staying away from their gloves.) |
|
Just top revive this thread, I have found the Arcteryx Proton LT to me an amazing, warm, breathable, durable midlayer. It fits my long torso, it has some nice stretch, I can put the hood over my helmet...in short, a great piece. Here are some of the marketing/fabric descriptions: Fortius™ Air 20 face fabric Coreloft™ Compact 80 synthetic insulation Link |
|
Just getting around to checking the forums. Everyone already said everything so well. I have an atom Lt and I wear it all the time, the only thing is that it’s not actually that warm. Himali is a good company and they sent me a hand signed letter. If I had to choose again I’d go with the Himali or maybe something beefier from Arc’teryx. |
|
Salewa has been integrating part wool into a lot of their jackets and fleece. I have a jacket and a fleece and like both quite well. |
