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Volumes on a 45deg spray wall

Original Post
John Gassel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 2,647

What are people’s thoughts about putting volumes on a 45deg spray wall?  My wall is 8’ wide by12’ tall.  I currently have a single volume and I really like it as it allows me to put smaller holds on that angle change for the volume.  I’m considering adding 2 more but I like the wall as-is so I’m afraid of spending the time to build them and making the wall less useful.  Watching the new spray wall episode put out on Ondra’s YouTube this week made me consider adding them as he stressed their utility on a 45 degree wall.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Would added volumes reflect your outdoor climbing goals? If your 45° doesn’t already reflect them than seems like a volume or two extra may just make your board more fun and enticing to train on, or at least mix up your possible movements. I don’t see much downside.

His board in that video is also enormous, but has a high density of volumes, so maybe you make some volumes and find what optimal density for you is.

John Gassel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 2,647

That's a good point regarding the outdoor climbing goal angle.  It's certainly not 45 degrees in most cases.  For context, I also have a 15 degree wall in the garage that's 12' wide by 10.5' tall.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398
John Gassel wrote:

That's a good point regarding the outdoor climbing goal angle.  It's certainly not 45 degrees in most cases.  For context, I also have a 15 degree wall in the garage that's 12' wide by 10.5' tall.

Sounds like you have your answer then. If 45 is purely for strength and variety, huck those volumes on there to stay stoked on the board and be more likely to spend time on it. And from a little tick list creeping, looks like having volumes in a position you could build jams into could be another way to add variety

randy baum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,246

Few volumes are fine, but they must be very low profile. Otherwise, the volumes will block movement. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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