Something to replace my Pinks?

My 5.10 Pinks are dead, the last resole didn’t go so well. 7 years of service, reliably smelly, but the latest repairs changed them and added a hotspot that just hasn’t gone away. In the ensuing years I’ve been getting Butora for high end, and Unparalleled to replace Anasazis. I’ve had my eye on their lace up, just curious if anyone has any thoughts. Basically, I’m looking for an all day shoe for crack and solid vertical edging. You know, what Pinks did. Only two brands I’m a big no on, 5.10 (quality dropped), and La Sportiva (great shoes, but I’ve tried many and all of the fits have been terrible, too narrow). So if anyone has had success replacing their Pinks, or has a 2015 or earlier size 9.5 in great condition for sale, preferably like 20 of them, let me know.

You already know the answer to this. 

UP Lace.  Comfy and sticky.  Made is USA.

I’ve seen the Tenaya, curious about it. And the UP lace do look nice, I just really want them to be pink, and afraid the pink version is a bit on the thin side. I wish more places carried them so I could try ‘em on.

Tenaya Masai = simular to pinks. Up lace is not as "pointy".

Daniel wrote:

I just really want them to be pink

LOL.  Looking for the placebo affect?

Jay Anderson wrote:

LOL.  Looking for the placebo affect?

It’s just not the same if they aren’t pink

I love this shoe as well. FYI Tahoe sports has 2 pair of 9's left...might be worth a call to see if maybe one pair is a half size.
https://www.tahoesportsltd.com/anasazi-lace.html?id=84166252

Daniel wrote:

I just really want them to be pink

Pink enough for you?  Well used 46.5 regular UP Lace (Blue).  New 46.5 UP Lace LV Women's 14 (Pink).  You can see the difference in the laces.  Pinks feel great.

Jay Anderson wrote:

Pink enough for you?  Well used 46.5 regular UP Lace (Blue).  New 46.5 UP Lace LV Women's 14 (Pink).  You can see the difference in the laces.  Pinks feel great.

They actually make the LV version in the big sizes!
Amaze. I always have had the problem of almost tapping out the lacing on lace up anasazis.
Thats a sweet looking shoe for folks with flippers that aren't too meaty.

Jay, I think I bought a pair of 13 pinks from you a while back. How's sizing compared to the pinks? Do you wear the same size in UP as "old" 5.10?

Mr Rogers wrote:

Jay, I think I bought a pair of 13 pinks from you a while back. How's sizing compared to the pinks? Do you wear the same size in UP as "old" 5.10?

I didn't wear the Adidas shoes enough to be calibrated.  I bought them to be comfort fit and they weren't as large as I expected.  I tried them once or twice and then moved on.  My guess is that those Adidas 13's fit about like my UP Lace 46.5.

I totally missed these responses. I wound up going with Evolv Yosemite Bums, happy with them and after a lot of years I actually have a full quiver of climbing shoes again. Feels nice.

I vote UP Lace. I bought them as a replacement and they became my favourite all around shoe. 

Can anyone confirm that the heel on the Up Lace fits like the one on the Pinks? Recently started wearing my pinks again while my other shoes are out for resole and the shoe fits perfectly.

And does anyone else know a shoe from Up that the heel fits the same but with more toe rubber? The pinks are great but I need to toe hook harder sometimes. Velcro closure would be nice too

John Clark wrote:

Can anyone confirm that the heel on the Up Lace fits like the one on the Pinks? Recently started wearing my pinks again while my other shoes are out for resole and the shoe fits perfectly.

And does anyone else know a shoe from Up that the heel fits the same but with more toe rubber? The pinks are great but I need to toe hook harder sometimes. Velcro closure would be nice too

The Up Lace has the forefoot of the Blanco, and heel of the Pinks.

Kyle MacKrell wrote:

The Up Lace has the forefoot of the Blanco, and heel of the Pinks.

Kyle MacKrell wrote:

The Up Lace has the forefoot of the Blanco, and heel of the Pinks.

So, I'm 99% sure this is not true.
I have worn basically only ansazis since the crazy aggressive OG über deep heel.
The only difference between, Blanco's, Verde's and pink's was their stiffness. In later gens they finally changed the heel to be better across all anasazi models, minus maybe the Moccasym, which always felt like it had a slightly different heel in the early models.
The entire ansazi line has the same shape in the forefoot to be sure.

HA lace gumbies. Slowest people at the crag - everyone waiting around for you to lace up and down. Laces always frayed and shitty looking. Can't take your shoes off at the multipitch belay.

#Velcro or slippers gang. 

Mr Rogers wrote:

So, I'm 99% sure this is not true.
I have worn basically only ansazis since the crazy aggressive OG über deep heel.
The only difference between, Blanco's, Verde's and pink's was their stiffness. In later gens they finally changed the heel to be better across all anasazi models, minus maybe the Moccasym, which always felt like it had a slightly different heel in the early models.
The entire ansazi line has the same shape in the forefoot to be sure.

This was word from the creators of the shoe at their gym in Redlands.

So likely means it has the last iteration of the anasazi lace heel (pink) and the stiffness of the blanco up front. Which is great if thats what it is.

Also, UP owns a gym or just some of their people own a gym as well? Either way that's cool.

https://weighmyrack.com/shoe/ocun-jett-lu