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Anyone lead climb with a chest harness.

Original Post
Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Had a recent lead fall where foot fell behind rope at lower piece of gear. I wonder if chest harness would help prevent a flip. From anyone that has experience using chest harness, what are the disadvantages. 

Armand La Douceur · · Gainesville, GA · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 549

The chest harness and normal harness would both flip you if a foot happens to slip behind the rope. Happens to all of us but just have to be wary about where you place your feet. Hope this helps!

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,903
Houghton Gremlin · · Houghton MI · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 20

It’s much easier to just not get the rope behind your foot. 

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

The study above [learn to make a clicky] just says that a sit harness doesn't flip you over nor cause back injury. They concluded that most severe injury was caused by smacking the rock.

Getting caught be the rope, upside-down and wearing a chest harness whips you back upright. Yeah WHIPS you upright!  This can cause severe injury if you get whipped into the rock. You're still going to flip upside-down if you catch a foot on your rope.

Highline workers are required to wear a body harness, so the whip around isn't what hurts you. It's the rotational whip into the rock wall.

Greg R · · Durango CO · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Anyone out there actually used a chest harness and have some personal anecdotes. 

Andy Forquer · · Emeryville, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 5

I don't have 1st hand experience, but was able to find this:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/3029308/Whey-dont-more-people-use-chest-harnesses 

Pros

  • Potentially distributes loads
  • Potentially protects from certain spinal injuries (e.g. less likely to scorpion)
  • More likely to bring a climber passively upright after a fall (e.g. if unconscious)

Cons

  • Bulky/expensive
  • May add additional spinal compression
  • Off-center attachment point may create more of a violent twist/flip if not falling feet first (e.g. rope behind leg)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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