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Rope for skimo, scrambles, low 5th

Original Post
M DP · · BC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Hi all,

I'm looking for recommendations for a rope for a diversity of applications – mainly ski touring, mountaineering, and scrambles in the high 4th or low 5th-type range where there might be some simul-climbing or a few short crux sections of 5.6ish. The RAD line has crossed my mind but I'd like for a rope to be a bit more all-purpose as I'm trying to be a bit budget-minded.

I currently have a beal rando 8mm in 30m, considering purchasing a second one to give to ski partners to double up.

Ideal objectives being 70% ski touring / mountaineering, 30% long rock routes / scrambles. 

Thanks!

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

An 30m x 8mm rope would be my recommendation especially if you are going use it on rock. The RAD is basically a static rope and not really suitable for rock except in a pinch.

M DP · · BC · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Allen Sanderson wrote:

An 30m x 8mm rope would be my recommendation especially if you are going use it on rock. The RAD is basically a static rope and not really suitable for rock except in a pinch.

Yea sort of my thinking... I see folks in my area use the RAD to pitch out scrambles and low fifth and falling on it would scare me.

What about one of these new triple rated ropes like the Beal Opera or Mammut Alpine Sender (looks like the 7.5mm is half but 8mm+ is triple rated).

Kabir T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

here's a resource that gives options for use-cases that are down your alley: youtu.be/IFXSyfNV1kI

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

I'm going with the Edelrid Rap Line Protect 6mm (dynamic if you fall on it).  Perfect for your applications. Lightweight dry rope for glacier travel, very abrasion resistant, and can be doubled for technical climbing - see Rob Coppolillo's review:

https://www.wildsnow.com/28797/slim-versatility-edelrid-rap-line-protect-rope-review/

They are out of the 60m right now, but keep checking. 50m is US $141.92  I paid $23 for shipping (for the 60m) and it arrived in 3 days.

https://www.oliunid.com/edelrid-rap-line-protect-pro-dry-6-mm.html

Jordan Rogers · · Bellevue, WA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 100
Terry E wrote:

I'm going with the Edelrid Rap Line Protect 6mm (dynamic if you fall on it).  Perfect for your applications. Lightweight dry rope for glacier travel, very abrasion resistant, and can be doubled for technical climbing 

I have an RLP, it is great for glacier travel and rappels. As you mentioned it can be doubled for leading as a twin rope, but that limits you to short pitches, unless you bring two, in which case you are better off getting something like the Beal Opera which weighs less than 2x the RLP and is single rated. It sounds like OP intends to use this rope for leading, not just as a “just in case” option, so I don’t think the RLP is a good choice. 

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
Jordan Rogers wrote:

I have an RLP, it is great for glacier travel and rappels. As you mentioned it can be doubled for leading as a twin rope, but that limits you to short pitches, unless you bring two, in which case you are better off getting something like the Beal Opera which weighs less than 2x the RLP and is single rated. It sounds like OP intends to use this rope for leading, not just as a “just in case” option, so I don’t think the RLP is a good choice. 

I agree completely. Would only use the Rap Line for leading occasional short pitches.

Will N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0
R K wrote:

If you’re planning on 70% ski touring, you’ll want to go with a larger diameter rope; in cold temps, a rope can shrink a full-size in diameter. The below is what I use. Best of luck.


https://www.backcountry.com/bluewater-dynagym-10.6mm 

10.6mm non-dry gym rope for ski mountaineeeing are you trolling!?

Tim FromMaine · · Maine->Colorado · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 11

I'd feel alright on the 8.2 Starling Protect from Edelrid. 

Nathaniel Francis · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2022 · Points: 90
Will N wrote:

10.6mm non-dry gym rope for ski mountaineeeing are you trolling!?

No he just likes a good workout

Tim N · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 71

I use a 60m 7.5mm Mammut double/twin for applications when I’m primarily rappelling or those short protected scrambles.
I love my Beal Opera (also 60m) for more rock/ice climbing intensive applications or glacier travel (30m is too short for most glacier applications)

I have a 8mm 30m Mammut half rope, but I rarely carry it since it honestly isn’t really lighter than my 7.5mm 60m rope, and is significantly less useful being so short. Maybe if I had a lighter model I would carry it more as an emergency rope when I don’t actually plan on using one, but for now I’ll usually just pack a couple 7mm cordalettes or something to use as a quick handline for short bulges etc if needed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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