Multi pitch jacket

I’m looking for recommendations on a jacket to protect against the wind and weather down to 30 for multipitch. Currently I’m looking at Patagonia nano and MH ghost whisper 2. What is your thoughts on one over the other or something that isn’t bulky and better than these?

I don't have experience with the MH, but I love the Pati nano puff pullover for multi pitch. I often bring it along because it is so lite and packs into it's own little pocket making it a great piece in addition to a wind shell or soft-shell etc. If I don't expect to take it off though, I far prefer something like the ArcTeryx Alpha LT that is much more breathable. If it was 30, I'd probably wear the Alpha under a lightweight soft-shell like the OR Ferossi and bring the nano-puff to wear at belays if it got cold. 

Yup, put an OR Ferrosi over your insulating layer and you’ll be solid. Breathable, stretchy, durable, plenty of pockets, and fairly priced. I’ve had the same ferrosi jacket for two years of heavy use and it’s still in good condition. 

The ghost whisperer will be torn to shreds in a few days of climbing stand-alone, and it’s not breathable enough. The nano-air is more durable and is good for climbing alone, but doesn’t offer wind protection as it’s meant to be really breathable. But a soft shell over the nano air and you’ll be solid.

If you mean the nano puff, that’s not as breathable and it’s less durable, I’d stay away for climbing uses. 

I just scooped up a Cumulus Climalite full zip and am astounded by it. 11 oz, packs down to about the size of a nalgene in its included stuff sack. Basically all of the features of the Nuclei FL but for half the price and with the bonus of a two-way zipper. Research reveals that it may actually use the same fabrics and insulators, just by different names. The build quality is outstanding and it feels as warm as my Atom AR at half the weight and insulation. And it's half the price. Check it out here:

https://cumulus.equipment/us_en/men-jacket-climalite-full-zip.html

You may want to check out Montbell.  They have some good light, warm , and durable jackets.  

Check out the DAS Light Hoody, it’s basically the micropuff with a burlier outer for durability and warmth. I got it specifically for multipitch and it’s been great. Ive been wearing it either alone or with a micropuff underneath on those cold camp 4 mornings.

Colin Haley’s love letter to the DAS Light (#6):
https://colinhaley.com/nugget-2-current-recommendations-from-patagonia/?amp=1

Nick Haha wrote:

I’m looking for recommendations on a jacket to protect against the wind and weather down to 30 for multipitch. Currently I’m looking at Patagonia nano and MH ghost whisper 2.

Nick, is this for wearing while active (climbing or approaching) on a multi, or for keeping warm while stationary at belays?  I'd give different recommendations for those two uses.  For stationary use, neither of those jackets would be warm enough for me at 30 degrees.

Note that the Ghost Whisperer is a down jacket, and the Nano Puff is synthetic.  I'm not going to tell you that one type is better than the other, but it might make sense to figure out which type of jacket you personally prefer so you can narrow down your search.

Arnav V wrote:

Yup, put an OR Ferrosi over your insulating layer and you’ll be solid. Breathable, stretchy, durable, plenty of pockets, and fairly priced. I’ve had the same ferrosi jacket for two years of heavy use and it’s still in good condition. 

The ghost whisperer will be torn to shreds in a few days of climbing stand-alone, and it’s not breathable enough. The nano-air is more durable and is good for climbing alone, but doesn’t offer wind protection as it’s meant to be really breathable. But a soft shell over the nano air and you’ll be solid.

If you mean the nano puff, that’s not as breathable and it’s less durable, I’d stay away for climbing uses. 

Thank you for this detailed help

Kyle Tarry wrote:

Nick, is this for wearing while active (climbing or approaching) on a multi, or for keeping warm while stationary at belays?  I'd give different recommendations for those two uses.  For stationary use, neither of those jackets would be warm enough for me at 30 degrees.

Note that the Ghost Whisperer is a down jacket, and the Nano Puff is synthetic.  I'm not going to tell you that one type is better than the other, but it might make sense to figure out which type of jacket you personally prefer so you can narrow down your search.

This jacket would be all around for wearing on climbing trip endeavors.  I’ll be planning on more or less not taking it off from the bottom to the top of the mountain.

I have both a nano puff and a ghost whisperer and bring one of those + a fleece (R1) + a patagonia houdini depending on the type of climbing. I run very cold. The ghost whisperer is warmer and lighter, but will get shredded if you climb in it, so I only ever use it as a belay jacket. The nano puff is a bit more durable and I'll climb easier stuff like slab in it where I don't think I'll come into contact with the rock, but it's still mainly a belay jacket. I usually wear the fleece the whole time, putting the houdini on (and climbing in it) as needed and only putting the jacket on for belays.

I would recommend getting whichever jacket is cheaper (so probably the nano puff). Climbing is not kind to these kinds of jackets.

Also belay gloves and an insulated hat that fits under your helmet can reduce the need for a belay jacket.

If in the sun, climb in baselayer and fleece hoody, put a good windbreaker or light rain shell like a Patagonia Houdini, Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody, or Outdoor Research Helium on at belays... that combo is basically equal to a puffy without as much low durability concerns. +/- depending on your baselayer top and fleece choices.

A lot of climbers seem to skimp on pants, but really good mid to heavy softshell pants will help a ton with comfort. I have some Mammut ones I like when its only moderately cold. I prefer the Arcteryx Gamma MX Pants which are fleece lined when its colder. I have some puffy overpants I think may be BD or Patagonia that I am excited to try this season for really long belays when its cold when new routing, etc...

Nick Haha wrote:

This jacket would be all around for wearing on climbing trip endeavors.  I’ll be planning on more or less not taking it off from the bottom to the top of the mountain.

It might make sense to take a step back from the immediate question, and think a bit more about clothing systems and what your needs are.  It would be extremely rare (in my experience) to wear the same jacket from the car to the summit on a climb.  While approaching you generate a ton of heat and most people are warm enough in a base layer or light fleece at those temps.  While climbing, you also generate a lot of heat.  While belaying your partner, you can get quite cold, especially on a longer pitch, or in the shade or wind.  Everyone I climb with puts on a warm outer layer for belaying, snack breaks, etc., and removes it while climbing.  I don't think it's likely that you'll be happy trying to wear a jacket all day.

That being said, if you are looking for a jacket to wear while active, both of those options you suggested are quite bad.  You generate a lot of moisture (perspiration) while active, so you need a jacket that 1) allows that to evaporate so you don't get soaked, and 2) doesn't have it functionality compromised by moisture.  Both of the jackets you mentioned don't accomplish #1, because they are made with windproof and non-breathable shell fabrics (they won't let air/moisture through).  With regard to #2, a down jacket (like the GW) is usually not a good choice for active wear because your perspiration will wet out the down.

I'd recommend wearing a normal fleece hoody and option softshell/windshirt while active, and then planning on throwing a warmer insulated jacket over the top when you stop.  I would personally want a warmer jacket than either of those for belaying if it's 30 degrees.  If you really want to buy a jacket to wear while active, look at the modern "active insulation" jackets, such as the Nano Air, Proton, Cor Strata, First Light, Xenair, etc.  These are designed with breathable fabrics and insulation to help manage perspiration.  The tradeoff is they aren't as warm or light as a traditional puffy jacket.

^^^what they said on developing a system. 

I do a baselayer (thickness depends on how cold), mid layer (usually a sun shirt or fleece, again depending on how cold), and an outer shell (basically just a rainjacket with pit zips open). I have a big 800 fill mountain hardware parka that I got on here used for like $30 or $70. I keep that in a stuff sack on the back of my harness for belays on really cold days. I dont climb in wicked cold temps often, but I've used the belay parka on a couple handful of multipitch routes and it has held up really well. 

Also a neck gaiter paired with hooded layers will make a huge difference. Thermal tights + basic softshell pants. I usually carry spare athletic underwear in case I get really warm and need to shed the thermals.