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Best guidebooks for sport climbing in and around SLC area

Original Post
K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144

What are the best guidebooks to cover BCC, American Fork, Logan Canyon, et al, probably some other sport areas that I don't know yet. Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range is about 20 years old. A Granite Guide looks like it covers a few.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

For AF, BCC The Ruckman books are still reasonably accurate for most areas. There is a more recent book by another author for BCC but I will not recommend it or any of their books. 

For Maple Canyon.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Mountain Proj is pretty good around here for the stuff worth traveling to climb. I think there's a newish book for northern utah limestone covering the logan area that might be worth picking up, but I always tend to go to the same spots when I drive up there so I haven't picked it up.

K Dub · · Out West · Joined May 2018 · Points: 144

Thank you

Chris Stocking · · SLC, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 759
Allen Sanderson wrote:

There is a more recent book by another author for BCC but I will not recommend it or any of their books. 

Just curious the reason for this. Is it that the book is bad, or are there other issues with the author/publisher that you object to?

ANTHONY CALDERONE · · Granite, UT · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 46

Big Cottonwood Canyon

1) The Standard Guide to Big Cottonwood Rock Climbing covers ~850 routes. The 2nd edition came out in 2022. Protection info for every route. Full-color photo-topos. Approach information is narrative, satellite photos and scaled USGS-style maps. $29.98 on Amazon.

2) Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range covers ~450 routes in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The 2003 publication is a reprint of the 1999 printing. Very little protection info. About 90% of the topos are line sketches. Approach information is narrative and line sketches. $35.00 on Amazon.

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City Creek Canyon, Parleys Canyon, Grandeur Hills, Millcreek Canyon, Olympus Hills, Deaf Smith Canyon, Hidden Valley Park

1) The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock Climbing covers all the routes in these areas and more (~225 routes). It came out in 2022. Protection info for every route. All routes have full-color photo-topos. Approach information is narrative and satellite photos. $14.98 on Amazon.

2) Rock Climbing the Wasatch Range covers most of the routes in these areas. 

.

Emigration Canyon, Rocky Mouth Canyon, Orson Smith Park, Draper Red Rock

1) The Standard Guide to Wasatch Bench Rock Climbing is the only guidebook ever printed for these areas. 

Jackson Chambers · · Springville, UT · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 52
Chris Stocking wrote:

Just curious the reason for this. Is it that the book is bad, or are there other issues with the author/publisher that you object to?

Pretty sure people have beef with Tony, not just his books (although some don't seem to be fans of his books regardless). I'm not exactly sure why, but I've overheard people that just don't want to support him. A quick Google shows that he spent 5 months in prison for lying about his achievements in the army. People change, of course, but maybe he's still a liar and people don't want to support his life's ethics. Not sure if there's more climbing-specific issues though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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